Hi Guys,
I’m in the process of doing a R200 LSD conversion in my Datsun 1600 FJ20 turbo.
I would like opinions of what shafts to use, I want something strong as I intend of giving the car a hard time.
The car will be predominately used for street driving, but will do the occasional track day and may take it down the quarter mile once or twice to see what she can do.

Thanks in advance,
Isaac

Custom shafts with German CV's. Super expensive but will never break.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

yep, thats it porsche cvs are the go, if u wanna go cheaper hr31 are fairly strong. i have a o.k set of dr30 2x6 bolt shafts if ur interested.

You'll be custom making something no matter what really. I choose standard 2X3 CV joints from a cerfiro etc for mine simple and easy to find and bolt up at both ends. You car is light unless you have 2000hp you won't brake the axles or CVs

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Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

Not really. Off the shelf items include:

http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.ph ... &Itemid=61

http://www.maddat.com.au/1600.php



Pretty sure other companies would have something out now aswell like Datsport and SWR etc.
If you want to make some up yourself, yes, you will need shortened and resplined axles at the very least...

Just make sure if you are getting the porsche CV kits, it's from the 930, or other high performance porsche, and not a volkswagen.... Although some of the angle of articulation of the volksy CV's make them good for Dune Buggies....

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

hey ive been looking into this for quite some time..

nothing against these driveshsafts, they are excellent but are subject to their own limitations.

my understanding is that the wolf creek kit and maddat kits just replace the shaft itself and utilise an alley spacer. this spacer will not last with power and abuse..

sure the axles may take the power but what u bolt them to wont.. the standard stub axle is still used and will eventually fail also..

as the lads say custom is the only way.. diff inputs, cv, shafts, hubs, the lot..

it all depends on ur driving style, how many ponies the car has.

the $ add up quickly, ive always thought it would be cheaper to cut out the floor and put a 4 link and sheetmetal solid diff in.. rather than go custom.

ive heard prices from 3500 to 4500 for a complete setup..

i welcome more input from ppl, i could be wrong

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Datsun 1600 sedan sr20det
Datsun 1600 ute. Fj20et, yes I said ute..
hilux diesel dog

I also didn't like the idea of aluminium adapters.

My set up:
Z31/HR31 4 bolt CVs ( longnose R200 LSD) came with the diff.
SWR custom short axles $650
SWR billet companion flanges. $550




No aluminium adapters needed.

This 9 second S12 uses z31 r200 CVs i believe ( but with custom axle shafts and stub axles), so they've gotta be strong enough for me!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDGg3G-p6Fc

DR30 cv shafts are an easier option...

http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=29&t=29579

...or if you want to take it to the extreme:

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set= ... 720&type=3

That's some nice gear ^

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Ive heard Holden IRS can be modded for cheaper?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-Commo ... 41620397a7

For my 510, I've got A31 3x2 diff input flanges, and CV's. HR30 outer flanges, and CV's. With shortened A31/S13/R32 etc axles. (Cut down and resplined)
Real easy. the Axles cost around $300. (Although I swapped them for helping a mate do his driveway) The rest of the bits and bobs were fairly cheap. The only bit that was Hard(ish) to find was the HR30/910 outer companion flanges.
There's been a bit of a discussion etc lately here http://www.nzdatsun.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4207

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My drinking club has a Datsun problem............

NZ Datsun Club inc
www.nzdatsun.com

Or, use original 1600 std halfshafts, or 240k.
The ones WITHOUT the grease nipple fitted to the unijoint.

The grease nipple thread is a stress riser and weak point.
Your car isnt that heavy to require the very sexy look at me cv setup.
Many circuit Zeds and heaps of rally cars, with more wright, and far higher shock loading, still use the stock units.
Cheaper too.

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Yep, i race a Datsun, and I drive a truck, sometimes I get confused, and then the truck goes fast, and the Datsun gets a lot of boxes shoved into it. AWW GEE

I tend to agree, you only need cv's when doing hard drags launches or they are also useful when lowering your car