hey everyone!

Need some help!

First of all what is a cig welder? i cant find any info on it in google!
and could i use the cig welder for my car on rust repair?

Thanx everyone!

CIG was the acronym for Commonwealth Industrial Gasses, now BOC British Oxygen Company Ltd.
A home made locked diff. was traditionally called a CIG Locker
Anyhoo, back to your question.
Most shops will use a MIG or TIG for body repair, both quite costly although they are getting smaller and cheaper all the time.
I personally use an Oxygen Acetylene plant with the Cobra/Henrob torch.

This torch will weld from coke can thickness up to 3/8" [or 10mm], ideal for body repair and sheet metal projects.
http://www.amweld.com.au/

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

CIG is a brand of welder. Sold at Bunnings and BOC etc...
This is what i used on my car:

http://www.justtools.com.au/prod1312.htm

ive got the above welder also, its great lacks the punch for 5mm+ though without having a few runs at a gap, which is the only thing about it thats holding some projects back. still manages it though, all round very happy with it

dont get one from bunnings, go to alltools and/or justools or totaltools or something. i know they're more expensive

im not sure how true this is, but bunnings apparently bought a sh*t tonne of old stock of '135' welders made in china or someplace for cigweld (sounds very like bunnings). since then cigweld stuff is made elsewhere to a better standard (supposedly) than the previous ones

my one was bought from bunnings, as said it hasnt upset me and im not overly fussed about the above bit of hearsay. just perhaps something to look into and/or consider. if you're friendly with your local tool place they'll help you out on price anyway, might even get it for cheaper than bunnings if you're tricky

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1972 P510
1979 620

I've read on a few forums that one of the switches or dials is mis-labeled and is actually the opposite of what it says.

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http://goo.gl/3vkZ0i Cool Datsun T-Shirts

not sure, its possible that the 1-2 switch and the high-low switch were mislabeled as each other, ive just got used to it heh

the dial that controls feed is fine though

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1972 P510
1979 620

I have a Transmig 135 too. I find it works great up to 6mm mild plate with gas. Tried it ounce without gas and it is just as crap as all the others on gas less. Gas all the way for mig. Won't even turn a mig on unless it has gas. Not worth the cleanup and messy welds. You'll spend triple the time cleaning up your job and spent more on the job using flappers etc etc then you would with gas, not to mention a weld that is shielded by gas is going to be way stronger than a gasless weld.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Welding lesson time!

MIG - Metal Inert Gas - solid metal wire fed into molten pool shielded by an inert gas (inert - non-reactive, does not affect the weld)
FCAW - Flux Cored Arc Welding - same as MIG but wire has powder flux core, some types do not require shield gas (often referred to as gasless MIG)
Oxy - Oxygen-Acetylene Welding (OAW) - what henrob/amweld torches do/use. gas flame creates molten metal pool, filler wire is fed in
MMAW - Manual Metal Arc Welding - stick welding
MAG - Metal Active Gas - like MIG except with a slightly active gas mixture (can't quite remember but i think 2 are argon+helium and CO2)
TIG - Tungsten Inert Gas - non-consumable tungsten electrode creates an arc which forms a molten pool on the parent metal (workpiece) and filler wire is fed into pool to create the weld bead, like an electrical version of OAW.

The biggest f*** up that everyone makes when using a MIG for FCAW gasless is not swapping the earth and power leads over...and buying cheap fung-chong-chow brand wire.

A f*** up when using MIG is using CO2. Carbon dioxide causes a fair amount of spatter even when the machine settings are perfect. Argon and argon mixtures are the go, even though they are a little more expensive than CO2.

Decent Amweld kits start at around $620 and then you've got the gas bottle hire and refill costs.

As for non-shielded being weaker than gas shielded, Most hardfacing welds done in the factory I work at use gasless wire. It all depends on what's in the flux, and if you buy cheap fung-chow gasless wire, you get cheap fung-chow flux, and a sh** weld.

Some tips on using MIG/FCAW/MAG:
-Keep the gun cable as straight as possible from weld to welder/machine, and make sure cable isn't tensioned by twisting
-Don't be a tighta***, fork out the extra $5 for half a dozen spare contact tips, and when the hole gets mis-shaped, replace the tip
-If you're using FCAW, take the gas shield/shroud off the gun if it works without it, makes it easier to see what you're doing, and you can get into tight spots easier, just be careful not to ground the contact tip to the work
-After about 8hrs of welding time, cut the wire off on the opposite side of the rollers, pull the wire out from the contact tip, remove the contact tip, pull the gun cable out of the welder and use a compressor and blowgun to blow out the conduit/liner (bit that the wire travels in). If the cable is not a type that detaches from the machine, stick the blowgun over the wire guide and blow the conduit out that way.

Oh and by the way I'm a boilermaker, 3rd year apprentice.

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

I bought a mig from gasweld it was a gas /gasless mig and u can reverse polarity for gasless.
ITs not bad cost me 450 done 5 restos with it but the desposible bottles to use gas only last a hr so are shite for big jobs.
but if you get the regulator and converter you laughing i have used gasless .8 its softer than the other wire to grind but you have to clean between welds and crusifix weld it cooling with air not water.
I agree its not anygood for big stuff but will do exhausts etc fine

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1600s arent the only datsun

What do you pay for a bottle of oxygen and acetylene? is it a lot cheaper then the argon being non-inert? Ive got a tig but im considering getting some oxy stuff for heating flexability etc. Though all depends on the gas price, dont really want to have to pay bottle hire on 3 bottles.

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My garage:
180b sedan daily (needs some TLC)
180B sss (under restoration)
180b Wagon daily
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 9&start=30

I use a Lincoln. I've found no problems running it with either Gas or Gasless. Has sensitive dial to go right through continuous voltage, and continuous wire feed. So you can get the sweet spot. Not just a switch hi/lo or with 6 different voltage settings. I'd recommend it to all.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18