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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 11:19 pm 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:04 pm
Posts: 3
If anyone is interested in putting a gilmer drive on there L-Series Engine, this is what I have done...
I do have to say thanks to a few other people for posting bits and pieces which gave me a start!

Purchase a Small Block 350 Chev Gilmer drive off Ebay. Water, Alternator and Crank Pulley - Approx $110

This drive set will need a few mods before it will fit!

First you will have to make the hole in the center of the Water Pump pulley larger -I used a 22mm dia hole saw from bunnings and a file.

Than you will need a Pulley adapter for the Crank Pulley - I have designed one in CAD and PDF, all you need to do is take it to Machinist that does CNC. This can be pricey, but shop around some people are will to do small cash jobs on the side... I paid $180

The belt with the kit will be too large, you will need to measure it with a bit of string, remember these pulley will expand with heat and make sure when you measure the belt length not to have the alternator fully tensioned, as you will want to restrict the slack on the belt if need be! - Mine is 36 inch's from memory but i don't have a stock tensioner on my engine. It is also possible to get the belt swapped after sale, just talk to the ebay seller (not all, but some may)


Nuts and Bolts

Water pump I used the standard ones..

Alternator I used the standard one, minus the washer and spring loaded washer - just add some lock tight.

Crank Pulley to the Adaptor plate I used M8X1.25mm hex bolts - Sorted from bunnings!

Enjoy!!!


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WATER PUMP CUTOUT-Untitled Sheet-000.pdf [6.1 KiB]
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Last edited by ballen on Sat Dec 20, 2014 2:49 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 4:57 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 20, 2009 11:40 pm
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
Great looking engine combination - awesome details and really like the bike based carbies....nice! What are the specs on this engine? What's it being used for? Any performance (hp, torque) numbers you can share?

So apart from looking really good, was there a particular reason to going to Gilmer style drive on this?


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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 5:31 pm 
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Yeah I've got one on my L20b in my 1600.
Same type pulleys and belt (345L 150)

What car is it going in? and what radiator are you using?? if it's a 1600 with a standard type radiator the alternator pulley hits the lower radiator outlet.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 8:08 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 16, 2013 5:17 pm
Posts: 101
Location: Bendigo
it looks awesome ballen. the whole package looks great.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 11:04 pm
Posts: 3
Cheers Guys,

The engine will be for a 1600 when I get it, but havent been able to find a decent shell as of yet for the right price. It's not for any particular application just wanted to build this engine to have a bit of balls for a weekender.

I Started it up for the first time last week, ive been building it slowly over the past year. So no numbers yet, when i get it in a car ill get dyno'd. Its still not 100% finished, going to put a new rocker cover on it and braided lines.


Specs are crow cam, 40mm keihin carbs, lightened flywheel, 4-1 extractors, hot spark ignition.

As for the radiator, haven't thought about it, though i won't be using the standard one, ill get ali one and run thermos. I know Silvia's have a real thin radiator so might try that.


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 9:17 pm 
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I've got my gilmer setup off my car at the moment but I might put it back on over the weekend and take some pics.

You would definately need a real thin radiator to run a thermo on the back of the radiator.

With the standard radiator there is no room for a thermo.

I've got a cheap small one on the front of the radiator, and it's actually been up to the task so far. Though it wouldn't be for sustained hard use.

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