If you're talking complete struts with brakes then it's pretty much a bolt-in swap for any of the types above, assuming your wheels fit over the calipers. If the strut tops aren't compatible for whatever reason you can use the original 1600 ones instead. Use the 1600 lower arm and steering arm but just watch that the calipers bosses don't foul on anything when you bolt it all up. I have heard of clearance issues with the 240k calipers (mine are ok but only just), in which case I understand most swap the struts from left to right to position the calipers on the front side of the strut. Just check everything for clearance with steering full lock each way, full bump and droop - usual CYA stuff.
The hydraulics - if you're going from standard 1600 brakes to 240k brakes then your master cylinder should be a 7/8" ID version (for drum rear), and the brake caliper hoses will need replacing depending on the type/condition of what you've got. If you're going to that sort of bother and modifying the hard brake lines in the engine bay, than a 180b booster will give the pedal a good feel and the rear bias valve may need to be changed to make sure your rears don't a) lock before the fronts on dry hotmix, or b) do nothing at all.
So I guess the short answer is yes, but.
Suggest searching the "brakes" section threads, a strut swap is usually involved when upgrading 1600 brakes.