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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 2:06 pm 
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Hi Ozdat,first time user here.
In the process of restoring my 1970 Datsun 1600,stock standard. I bought it new May 1970 so as a one owner thought it would be worth the effort and keeping it standard. Lots of rust-fixed.
My question to interested parties is :- I'm fitting a new timing kit (made in Japan-expensive) and can't find any good reference to how to adjust the Left Hand adjustable chain guide. This guide (curved) has two overlapping mount holes at the lower end and an elongated mount hole at the upper end. The chain tensioner (oil pressure and spring) is mounted just below this L/Hand guide.
The Right Hand guide is straight and not adjustable.
I think the idea is that I would use the inner or- tighter on the chain- of the two lower mount holes and then just fit the upper mount in the elongated hole to just snug the guide against the chain (how much tension ?) then let the tensioner do its job ?.
This will leave some room in that elongation for later adjustment, I think I can get at this top mount later without removing the timing cover again.
The head has been off a few times in past years so has probably been skimmed a few times.

Cheers, thanks for your thoughts.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 2:30 pm 
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You need to study the OEM Manual for the setup detail.
L14, L16 & L18 Service Manual is available at: -
http://www.mediafire.com/?fxurc666q22rt

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:00 pm 
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Thanks for reply, will try that manual reference, my manual (scientific publications) just says "adjust the chain guide against the chain at the desired tension" ?
Cheers.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 3:15 pm 
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Hopefully, the OEM Manual will be more descriptive :?

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 6:57 pm 
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Looks like that document has been corrupted majorly :(
I can email you a compressed version if you want :idea:

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 8:58 pm 
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Thanks Nissanman, that would be good,you have gone to a lot of trouble here,much appreciated.
Cheers.


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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 9:00 pm 
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I'll need your email addy, I can't post it via this site :(

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PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2015 11:09 pm 
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ok Graeme:- hprestney@hotmail.com
Cheers.


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 10:37 am 
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Make sure that when turning the engine backwards that the tensioner does not extend by more than 1 mm.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 11:44 am 
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Thanks Baz, will try that, I guess what we are saying here is that if the guide is adjusted sufficiently with enough tension on the chain, then when turn engine backwards the slack in the chain should not allow the spring in the tensioner to push the plunger out any more than 1 mm .Sounds good ?


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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 1:38 pm 
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That's correct.
If you cant get it tight enough. lets know. I have many ways to fix it.
This is very important if you are going to rev hard.

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PostPosted: Tue May 05, 2015 4:25 pm 
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Hi Baz, just trying that now. Are we sure we got that the right way round !. What I got here is :- when I turn the motor backwards (anti clockwise from the front) the tensioner side of the chain gets tighter and so the tensioner piston is pushed back into the body (ie no oil pressure just the spring).
To summarise my situation:- with the guide fully adjusted to its tightest limits, with clockwise tension on, there is 3mm of chrome showing on the tensioner piston. When I turn the motor backwards the chrome disappears ie the piston is pushed back into the tensioner body. When I go forward again the piston extends the 3 mm once more.
This is with the guide adjusted to its tightest.
If I loosen the guide off, slackening the chain, I get 7mm of chrome showing on the piston as the piston moves out to take up the slack
and if I turn motor back, once again, the piston is pushed back into the tensioner body by the chain .
Certainly can't get 1mm or less movement on the tensioner piston.??
Putting a far bit of pressure on the guides here.!
And once again, Thanks for you input Baz.


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 1:11 am 
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I forget the last part, but you worked it out. after turning backwards you go forwards.
This way you can see the travel clearly, As you did.

OK now remove the curved guide & file both the bottom & top slots to get more travel.
Extending the bottom slot allows you to get the bottom of the guide in alignment with the tensioner.
So the guide & tensioner are supporting the chain equally.

If you still cant get the slop out, lets know & we will go to step 2.

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"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 1:18 am 
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I forget the last part, but you worked it out. after turning backwards you go forwards.
This way you can see the travel clearly, As you did.

OK now remove the curved guide & file both the bottom & top slots to get more travel.
Extending the bottom slot allows you to get the bottom of the guide in alignment with the tensioner.
So the guide & tensioner are supporting the chain equally.

If you still cant get the slop out, lets know & we will go to step 2.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT


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PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 9:39 am 
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Thanks Baz,will do that as soon as I can get back to it. Will let you know results.
Maybe file a bit more than necessary on the top hole to allow for a future adjustment as the guides get worn a bit ? I reckon I can get at this top bolt in the future without taking the timing cover off again.
Could probably get at the bottom bolt too but would have to make a tool up to get down that far.
Cheers and thanks


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