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 Post subject: Best Engine oils for e85
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:04 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 28, 2010 8:52 pm
Posts: 66
Location: Sydney
Howdy,

Interested in seeing what engine oil people are using in regards to e85. I know e85 ultimately breaks down engine oil, and Ive been recommended to use the brand Kendall since it does not break down, but its quite expensive and hard to get ahold of.

Ive used royal purple, and that was great in the past but im not sure if they make an oil for e85 setups

What other quality engine oils out there that are good for e85. and how low degradation?

Cheers

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Datsun 610/180B SSS FJ22 700 rwhp on E85
Datsun 810/200B SSS FJ20 (current build)


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 05, 2013 5:47 pm
Posts: 289
Location: Melbourne
I ran E85 in my S14 for a while. I used the Nulon Performance fully synthetic oil without any issues. ROyal Purple say their oil is E85 compatible. I don't know the truth or myth behind this?
All i know is that i just made sure i changed my oil more regularly. I never noticed my oil had deteriorated in any way that was different to when i didn't run E85.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:12 pm
Posts: 73
Location: Melbourne
Super wrote:
Howdy,

Interested in seeing what engine oil people are using in regards to e85. I know e85 ultimately breaks down engine oil...
How does E85 break down engine oil ????Maybe rubber fuel hoses and plastic/paper filters and rubber seals in fuel pumps.


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 9:37 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 04, 2006 10:01 am
Posts: 59
Location: Ballarat, Victoria
Keep oil temps above 85c and any oil should be fine. It needs to be 85+ to evap any fuel off the oil to prevent dilution. I,d still be changing it often to be sure. I just run Penrite HPR50 in my race A12. Its cheap, easy to get and ive never had any problems. I do change it after every meeting tho.


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 28, 2015 11:22 am 
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Joined: Thu Sep 20, 2007 12:13 am
Posts: 228
Location: The Gap Brisvegas
E85 is Hydroscopic, ie it attracts water out of the atmosphere.
Running emgine will get some blowby past rings and in bores, moisture from the air will gather on the bores, and get pulled down into sump, the fuel residue in the oil will attract the moisture.

Run engine regularly, get it to temp and run to "cook" out the water molecules.
If E85 is left to sit in fuel systems, same thing.

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Yep, i race a Datsun, and I drive a truck, sometimes I get confused, and then the truck goes fast, and the Datsun gets a lot of boxes shoved into it. AWW GEE


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 17, 2015 3:41 am 
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Joined: Tue Jun 02, 2009 9:48 pm
Posts: 797
Location: over crowded Sydney
Don't use Royal Purple or Castrol or any of that cheap nasty sh*t! it's the equivalent to homebrand of shopping. If you've spent a lot of money on your motor, why feed it cheap lubricants? Supercheap Auto and Autobarn are not places to be buying engine oil for a built motor.

The oils you want to use are the ones that are expensive and hard to get hold of. Yes E85 is hydroscopic and corrosive, this is why the expensive oils are the ones you need, more R&D as been put in to develop a true E85 compatible engine oil (or closest to it).

Haven't heard of Kendall, but I'm using Joe Gibbs. There is also Amsoil oils and Brad Penn which are widely used.

Because E85 is corrosive, you will need to look for an oil with a high ZDDP (zinc) level. This will help decrease wear overtime (particularly if dilution becomes a problem using E85)

I would also recommend choosing an oil with a high viscosity index number. Joe Gibbs is the highest I have found so far.

Is your engine turbo or n/a?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 18, 2015 12:19 am 
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Joined: Wed Apr 16, 2008 1:32 am
Posts: 79
Location: Wild West
ULX110 is E85 Compaitable

Great Gear

John


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