I have a B310 Datsun 120Y. The model with the square headlights. It's been a project I've been restoring for a while. The car is on the road now but recently I've had some brake binding problems. The rear drum brakes were binding so I tried various things to fix it. I changed the rear brake hose, and the brake booster(which wasn't working properly) and bled the brakes. Some adjustment had to be made to the rod in the booster cuz the brakes still binded after it was replaced. I thought I fixed the problem but after a long drive today I noticed the back wheels were very hot and they brakes were binding slightly. What could still be causing this? Do I need to do more adjustment to the rod?

This will be problems in the drums themselves. Like sticking/seizing pistons, pull the drums apart and give them a good clean up and lube and check for stuffed pistons

If it was problems with the rod length in the booster the front would be binding also

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You've gotta love the sound of a n/a Fj at redline...

Does a 120Y have the square adjuster on the inside of the brake backing plate, on the opposite side to the wheel cylinder ? If so, this may need backing off.

Or as mentioned, sticking pistons in the wheel cylinder, which caused the same problem on my 1600 after it sat unused for a while and the cylinder seized up from corrosion.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Oh I forgot to mention, the first thing I did was back off the adjuster. The next day the brakes binded again and I cooked a set of brake shoes. I guess I'll have to get my mechanic to pull down the drums and service/replace the cylinders or could I easily lubricate the cylinders myself without having to take them off?

sounds like dodgy drum brake cylinders to me.

Me too. Or handbrake cable is to tight???

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

mmm, or handbrake cable siezing up due to too much dust, rust and water getting inside it (had that before), you should be able to move the inner cable (through the plastic/metal outer) by hand when the handbrake is released

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You've gotta love the sound of a n/a Fj at redline...

Nah it's not the handbrake cable. Sorry for not posting about my progress but the problem went away for some unknown reason. However after a party on Friday night I had to drive a fair distance to drop a friend home, about a minutes from my home I could feel them starting to bind. Then on Sunday on my way up to our local track to watch a race meet they started binding again and again on the way home. I don't know why it's started back again. This is the first time that I've driven the car a long long distance so I don't know if that has anything to do with it. Also I was driving quite fast on Friday so I don't know if that may have caused it either (vacum tube? valve in the booster connected to the tube?)

*sigh* I think I'm just going to buy new wheel cylinders and see what happens.

my brakes were binding on the back of my 1600 when i bought it. all mine was was the pedal adjuster under the dash was to far in and when i used the beakes they would stick on the then the fluid would heat up and force them on more.

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69' datsun 1600, ca18det

OK I bought two new wheel cylinder kits (wheel cylinder with rubbers already installed) and installed them on Tuesday. Took it for a long drive today and they started to bind again. I think this time it may be the handbrake and the brakes need backing off a bit cuz right now the handbrake holds with 2-4 clicks. Will try to get it sorted out tommorow. Take it for a nice long drive and let you know the results.

2 clicks? Sounds like this is the issue man. The heat generated in the drum while driving braking etc will cause the drum components to expand slightly giving you the binding issue. Lossen of the cable and you should be good

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Yup I loosened the cable and it seems to have gone away. Just a question, would this brake line have been contributing to it? I'm not sure why it looks like that but I would like to replace it.