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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:39 pm 
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Joined: Mon Apr 11, 2005 10:00 pm
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Location: Woodside, Adelaide. SA
Hey guys, i have standard brakes on my stanza, rear drums, front disc, PBR 15/16 master cylinder.

Today i decided to flush out the whole brake system and fill with new fluid. Anyway i drained the fluid and noticed that the whole m/c was pretty clogged so i removed the reservoir and cleaned it all out and then replaced it. I then filled it with new fresh fluid (Nulon stuff) and then opened one bleeder valve at a time and pumped it until fresh fluid came through.

Then starting from the longest brake then working up towards the shortest i bled the brakes. Now when i was finished i checked the pedal and it went straight to the floor, so i did each brake again and more air came out, checked the pedal and still down to the floor. So i then did each brake in turn again about 4 times and air came out each time.

What i mean by doing each brake again, i bled it the first time round, then bled each brake, air only came out for 2 pumps then i moved onto the next brake. So i really dont know what is happening here.

I'll tell you what i did do:

I had to change the brake calipers from the standard stanza to a bluebird S1, the calipers are the same part no and the only difference is that the bleeder nipple is in a different location. Theses calipers have no leaks and are in good condition, the seals are good and everything. I had to change them as i stuffed up the nipple on one of the stanzas calipers and the bluebird calipers are better anyway.

I also installed new pads and they are ok.

I removed the reservoir to clean it and made sure there was no blockage and there is no leak around the m/c.

Thats all that i did, there are no leaks anywhere and it all seems fine. The brakes were working fine before hand and i only decided to refill the system as my rear right drum was locking on, and the fluid is 4 years old!

So i am unsure if there is a bleeder valve on the m/c?

Sorry for the long post, any help asap would be great!

Please help guys, i'm at a total loss?

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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 10:54 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 18, 2005 9:58 pm
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Location: Perth
ok, if your getting air back into the system after bleeding means you are getting a air leak somewhere. Is the m/c level topped up at all times? Is the m/c resivour secured and sealed correctly? Are your new calipers on the correct side, ie are the bleed nipples at the top of the caliper? How new is the m/c.

Dattoman_1000 should be able to help but sounds like you have a leak somewhere!

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PostPosted: Fri May 26, 2006 11:09 pm 
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Location: Woodside, Adelaide. SA
The M/C is probably as old as the car, the reservoir is sealed and fluid is in the reservoir at all times.

However the bleed nipples are on the bottom, i had to do it that was the face the hose connector upwards...?

Could this be my problem? But if that is the problem then why are my rear brakes still bleeding air?

Thanks... Keep it up i really need to get this solved asap! :(

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89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 7:57 pm 
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Location: sutho shire sydney
can you swap the calipers left to right will it make the nipples on top if so try it and bleed again


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 8:36 pm 
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Location: Woodside, Adelaide. SA
I managed to swap the calipers left to right and bled the system again. And the brakes work just not great. The pedal doesn't sink to the ground anymore but they are spongy.

Also air is leaking back into the system from somewhere, as i bleed one brake, and then do another and then go back to the one i just bled and theres air in it.

Daniel.

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89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project


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PostPosted: Sun May 28, 2006 11:17 pm 
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The back can be a real bitch to bleed as the brake lines go up and down under the car so you get air locks, just keep trying and you should get there.

Also are you using a little tube off the bleed nipple into a container to stop air getting back in as your bleeding them? Make sure the tube has a tight fit over the nipple and the other end is submerged in brake fluid (beer bottles work well as containers)

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PostPosted: Mon May 29, 2006 10:25 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 01, 2003 3:25 pm
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Location: Gold Coast
datto_1600 wrote:
Also air is leaking back into the system from somewhere, as i bleed one brake, and then do another and then go back to the one i just bled and theres air in it.
Daniel.
Are you 100% sure about this? Are you using a hose draining into a bottle for the old fluid? Remember, each time you move the hose, the hose will fill with air. This could be the air you see coming out. Also, in between bleeds, the fluid can drain out of the hose and it appears you're pushing air out of the system

The rear brakes can make the pedal feel spongy, if they are not properly adjusted. Datsun drums aren't self adjusting, so you have to manually adjust them. do you know how to do this? If so, then adjust them up, and bleed again.

I'm assuming that you are tightening the nipple BEFORE your assistant releases the brake pedal??

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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 12:34 am 
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Location: Woodside, Adelaide. SA
Yeah i'm using a hose over the nipple and its tight and all good.

I am also tightening the nipple BEFORE the assistant comes off the pedal.

I thought datsun drums WERE self adjusting...? :?

So how do i go about adjusting the rear drums?

The brakes work and they will only be tempory until i upgrade to all wheel disc using gazelle/bluebird rear ends with verada/180B/commondore stuff up front.

What M/C do people recommed for something like that i want 1 maybe 1-1/16 inch master cylinder that will bolt up.

Cheers guys.

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89' R31 Skyline Ti, 5 speed - Daily
89' R31 Skyline Executive - Slider/track whore
8' Stanza SSS - Rally Project


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PostPosted: Tue May 30, 2006 3:00 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 4:16 pm
Posts: 139
The adjuster is on the inside of the drum backing plate so its just above where the halfshaft bolts to the stub axle (if IRS).

It is a square headed bolt and it pushes a type of cone inside. You will feel it always going tight then loose tight then loose even if your undoing it. It needs to be left sitting in the loose position. Tighten it one 'step' at a time (as in past one hard spot) until you have trouble turing the wheel and then back it off one step.

Im not 100% if stanza is same as 16 or 180b so someone might want to clarify this

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