Is it necessary to retain the pressure limiting valve for the rear brakes with the r31 conversion if I am using 240k front brakes? As it is I don't seem to be able to lock the rear brakes when the fronts lock up (on dirt btw) so I wonder if it is due to the valve or maybe I just need to bleed the rears some more. The pedal feels okay, but I'm not 100% sure I've gotten all of the air out.

Thanks, Nick.

I have no valve and my R31 rear brake setup works fine...

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Datsun 1600 SR20DET GT30 etc 377 rwhp
10.915 @ 129 mph

With my 180b i had to modify the check valve to act the same as the front - all it involved was to punch a hole through it as the front had a hole standard. Wouldnt let any fluid through when i just removed the valve...

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You've gotta love the sound of a n/a Fj at redline...

Have you tried on asphalt?

You won't get as much weight transfer on dirt because of the reduced traction, therefore its harder to lock the rears.

My 240K + R31 combo is balanced pretty well spot on for circuit work with no bias valve. You could try some pads with a higher coefficient of friction in the rear for dirt work.

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1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp

I run 240k fronts & r31 rears

we have just changed the MB/booster so can't comment on the new setup, but I with the old setup the rears would only just lockup at the end of hard braking from 100 k's on tarmac.
I was running a sunny style booster with a v8 commodore MC.

cheers.