Hey guys just got a quick question,

When i boost up on my ca18det then back off its ok but then when i put my foot on the throttle again it pours out blue (oil) smoke any idear what is causing this ?
It dont do it any oother time just after i back off then put my foot back on the throttle.

Cheers

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TUFF 1600

Methinks the Oil seal in the turbo is rooted.
Get it replaced.

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

I thought if a turbo seal was shagged it'd blow smoke all the time. Valve stem seals?

Dave

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USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

I have had a rooted turbo before that used to blow smoke only at select times, like after idling for a while and then you took off. The crap thing was a heap of people told me it was likely valve stem seals, so I spent money on that. The turbo guy looked at it and said it was fine - but at that stage the turbo was still under waranty. It wasnt until the next owner rebuilt the motor and it _still_ blew smoke that the turbo was suspected and replaced.

Check your intake pipes post turbo to see if there any oil in there. If its the exhaust side it makes things a bit harder.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

*UPDATE*

Ok guys/girls just a bit of an update pulled intercooler pipe that goes to the turbo off tonite and have found *OIL* in it what does this mean now sorry if i sound dumb but this is my first turbo car and i know nothing

Cheers

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TUFF 1600

it means that the turbo oil seal is stuffed. so pull the turbo off and have a new oil seal fitted or get another turbo.

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1971 Datsun 1600 - Z18ET
1996 Suzuki RGV250 VJ22
1996 Suzuki RGV250 SP VJ23

If you have the dough mate get another turbo. A T25G from a sr20 (s13) will bolt stright up or a T28 from a s14 or S15 silvia will bolt up. They both provide good perfomance gains. If it was me I would go the T28 from a S15 silvia Jap spec. They can be found for around $800-$1200 in good nic. Good luck.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Di you run a BOV that plumbs back to before the turbo? Do you run an oiled pod filter? It certainly sounds like it could be the turbo, but I would just be making sure that the only thing that could be dumping the oil is the turbo - they are an expensive little beastie after all. If there is no oil in the pipes between the air filter and the turbo though then all fingers are pointing at the turbo.

Hey was talking to a bloke today and he seems to think its valve stem seals could this be right cause it only does it when its been in vac after boosting up then putting foot back on throttle, no other time..he said if its the turbo it would be smoking all the time.

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TUFF 1600

We need more details before we can answer that question. Start with what bob asked.


If you have no BOV it could still be the turbo. Boosting up the 1st time you might not notice it as the turbo wheel will still be accellerating, then when you back off you get surge which pressurises the compressor housing a tad and keeps the oil out, then when you get back on it the wheel is about up to speed and it comes out. Just guessing.

If there is no oil between air filter and the turbo, but there is afterwards, AND you have no BOV then it is most likely the turbo. Check these pipes and get back to us.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

There is no oil between airfilter and turbo and im not running a BOV..but there is a little oil in the cooler pipe to the turbo very little tho.

Cheers

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TUFF 1600

I'm not sure on the CA18 but if it was an L i'd be replacing the valve stem seals before I replaced a turbo. How hard are the CAs to pull apart I wonder?

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

for the amount of time it takes, do a dry/wet compression test.
Then if not conclusive get a cyl leakage test done.
This will confirm or eliminate your worst fears.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
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