Hey guys and gals,

I am looking to put a 13b-RE engine (ex series 6-8 RX7/Cosmo) into a Datsun 510 Sedan.

One of the major hurdles is the engine mounting process. The first place to look is Maddat and DatSport and places like that for adapters BUT, they done seem to have one for the later model 13bs... Mounting points for the popular conversions are all using the 12a/early 13b front cover plate. 4 bolts mounting to the front of the donk which goes on the old school 2 piece X-member... That is a MASSIVE hemorrhoid waiting to happen.

Given that it will be a "custom mount" and "custom engine bay", i am thinking that a complete fabrication will be the easiest way to go. Obviously, the easiest way to get this to all mesh nicely together would be to have the gear and lift it/drop it into place but... i dont and, i want to get some numbers together so i can look into the plans and maybe even mock up some designs out of dowel and ply wood.

Looking to get some specs of the engine bay. Measurements of as much as i can. Mainly width around the mounting points, the strut towers, length from firewall to radiator brackets etc... I will attach some piccies to give you guys a looksee at my idea thus far.

My Idea: Engine Mounting Points:


FD3s Front Subframe:

_________________
The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

Re1600, I have not seen or do not think its possible to fit either the central undermounted FC mounts or the later rear undermounted FD mounts. From personal experience the front mount is by far the easiest way to go. Why is it a massive hemorrhoid waiting to happen? It is well proven. All the big horsepower old school RXs run front mounts even when fitted a 20b tointo an rx3.

It may be possible but the 510 is a very narrow car compared to a mid to late rx7. The rotary engine is shorter then a 4 cylinder engine, but is close to twice as wide compared to the piston block. Which makes it near impossible to fit the later mounts as there is just not enough room. If u try fitting that engine into the datto with the crossmember in place u will see what I mean. Also to get the engine low enough you will need to get a old school sump as well, this has the oil pan pushed to the rear of the engine so that the datto crossmember curves around the sump. The later sumps will land bang on the centre of the crossmember. And you will then need to fit a blower to your bonnet to clear the top of the engine:)

You will have enough dramas getting the exhaust past the steering box let alone running those rear mounts. If you want I can take some pics of mine so you can see to give u a better idea.

_________________
My build-
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 89#p266789

Also if you are fitting a FD engine you will want to get the engine as low as possible because the intake sits quite high

_________________
My build-
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 89#p266789

Yeah, I see where you are coming from RE: engine mounts. I am pretty familiar with the big power rotar cars around and that most of them run the front mounted engines. My idea is that if I didn't have to, I didn't want to. I am planning to run the later engine (13B-RE) and yeah, the intake sits damn high indeed. It is the best flowing of all the twin rotar ones though so it is worth it.

RE: Steering. Is there a common choice that guys use to upgrade the older tech of the 510s? Like... a go to upgrade? Like a hydraulic setup or something? Something that might give the dual benefit of modernizing and a little more room for the turbo and exhaust?

Also, pictures of an existing setup would be REALLY helpful! Thank you!

_________________
The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

You could try sending a PM to BM510, he used to have a 13BT-powered 1600 and might have some helpful pictures. How much power are you planning on making? You could quite easily make 350rwkw from a series 4/5 block and mounting that might be easier.

_________________
green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

Thanks for the tip. I will shoot him a PM and introduce myself.

RE: Power, I am looking at putting something in initially that I can build on. Putting the earlier series motor would probably be a different story for mounting and would have been more visited than the later models. So in the idea that I can work with the later 13B-RE, I am preferring to go down that road.

Saves swapping out the donk when I get sick of around 350hp.

_________________
The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

SO... This is the plan that I have come with. It is completely theoretical at the moment as I don't have the engine or box to check everything out. Everything is pointing to this idea working out ok though.

The "chassis hugger" would go either side of the chassis right near the steering mounts... or even inline with the steering mounts. The physical room SHOULDN'T be an issue and the exhaust getting past from the turbo should not be an issue either.

To create a little more room up front, the standard X-Member will be modified to create a bigger arch forward. This could also double as a bit of forward support for the engine if it is needed... which it shouldn't be but, having the options, is never a bad thing.

There SHOULD be plenty of room for some lengthways bracing as well. Other than that, there SHOULDN'T be too much else in it.

Theories are nice.... wait and see how we go when I have the engine and box and can get the thing dummy fitted... when we can do that... we'll KNOW how much of the tunnel I will chop, how much further back the shifter will go and where things will fit nicely....

I think this KIND of setup will go ok.

Anyone have any thoughts... feel free to share

_________________
The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.