OK, I haven't finished yet so I don't have exact measurements for you. Here is a rough guide to the drive shaft problem with using late model WRX VLSD's and keeping your Datto halfshafts...

1: Buy a WRX or any Suby VLSD. 94 onwards. Make sure it is the circlip type.

2: Find a pair of drive shafts or even just the Stub ends from the same type of diff. MUST BE VLSD TYPE AND NOT JUST OPEN DIFF. Apparently you can buy the ends from certain driveshaft places. I found mine at a driveshaft place that had already been machined off a set of WRX driveshafts and they were going in the bin so I grabbed them for free...

3: Machine down you Datto halfshafts at the stub end so you end up with a MALE type end on it. Make sure you seperate the stub axle from the rest of the Halfshaft.

4: Machine the SUBY stub axles with a FEMALE type end in the back of them.

5: Make sure you machine a chamfer on the outer edge of both the Stub axles and the Datto halfshaft end so your weld can get a decent hold.

6: Slide the SUBY axle onto the Datto Halfshaft and obviously check for trueness before welding. If all is good, then weld them together. Needs pre-heating before welding. Pro welder will know what to do..

7: When all is welded and cleaned up and checked. Simply re-attach the Datto Halfshaft to it's Original Axle end that now has the new stub axle on it. ( New UNI's would be a good thing here )

8: Unbolt original R160 ( if not already done ) and bolt up SUBY R160 VLSD in it's place. No Mods needed. ( check Tailshaft bolt flange, may need swapping ).

9: Install Halfshafts as you normally would. Only difference is they will simply " CLICK" into the diff. No bolts needed. Do up the outer bolts as per normal. Chuck in Oil, Do Tailshaft and your away.... It's actually very easy...

NOTE 1: Machining shoud be done by an expert and especially the welding. As per info given to me by pro's, if the welding is done correctly there is no reason the weld shouldn't handle 300 to 350 RWHP...

NOTE2: The SUBY VLSD has 2 different stub axles. One is longer as it has an extra drive gear to drive the LSD part of the diff. The other is shorter and is similar to the stock Datto one. Doesn't matter which shaft you weld them onto as all you do is swap the shalfts over to the correct side.

My axles are almost done so I'll post pics when ready. I've gone this way because the Subaru VLSD's are more common and cheaper than the harder to get Clutch type.

I've attached a quick diagram for reference...

Cheers...

Great write up seems like a fair bit of work though.

Any idea what it would have set you back when your done?

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Well it's actually not that hard. It's all done on a lathe besides the welding. Doesn't take long at all. It always looks more complex on paper than in real life.

Well I got my VLSD for free off a mate. I paid a carton for the Datto halfshafts. My old man is doing the machining and welding as he has a workshop. So the whole lot is actually only costing me a carton of beer.

The only outlay I have made is another Suby diff. I had to buy a late model 4.11 R160 open diff from an AUTO 98 2.5L Legacy, $280. I did this because my WRX VLSD is a 3.54 ratio. I'll swap the guts of the two diffs over so I get my R160 4.11 VLSD...

By doing it all this way. You now have the option of any LSD you want. Besides R200 of course. ( Haven't checked into that ). If you find an old Clutch type LSD with the bolt in Halfshafts, great, just use your original halfshafts. If you find a slightly later Clutch type Suby or Nissan LSD with the CV type joints, just do the same as just mentioned. It's when you start to find the LSD's with the CIRCLIP shafts that limits people. But with the shafts I'm getting done it won't matter. I'm not limited to just one type of LSD. I can run an old skool 80's LSD or a new WRX VLSD. Just use whatever Halfshaft is appropriate...Done....

NOTE: Subaru diffs from around 94 onwards are made by HITACHI, hence the circlips. Not Fuji Heavy Industries like our orginal diffs.

sounds sweet, I'll keep my eyes open for a cheap r160 suby diff

Thanks for the info!!!

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Bastard! I got quoted $350 for an auto Subaru diff (4.44:1).

Do you know if the ring gears from a new Subaru diff can go into a stock datsun R160 diff? I thought they could but i'm not sure.

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Thats expensive!!!!! Not sure about the ring gear. As far as I know, The ring gear are the same but don't quote me on it. I have read that guys have put Suby ring gear into datsun carriers and vice versa. Why would you want to though? The Suby stuff is newer.....

Just got word today. The Halfshafts are done. Excellent. Will post pics in a week or so when I get them.... I'll ask what it would have cost had I been a paying customer..

Because of the 4.44 gears. ATM i have a clutch LSD in my datto. 4.44 would be much better than the 3.7, 3.9 and 4.11 i can choose from.

Oh, it's a 99+ model too. Maybe that's why it costs more?

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svd: Are you an aussie? You called one of the soobies a "Legacy". There's no such model is Oz - it's called the Liberty over here. Maybe that's the reason for the different prices - oz money vs yank / kiwi?

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Recommended trading: datto-510

It's because you have to get these parts from Japan (well... you don't have to, but it's cheaper... ) so to avoid confusion, you say 'Legacy' instead of Liberty. Got something to do with Legacy being a Cancer foundation dealy here in Oz, that's why Subaru changed the name.

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Well thats what the wrecking yard said it was out of. I bought it sight unseen. Doesn't matter anyway. Legacy, Liberty, Forester, WRX....All the same rear diffs except STI which has an R180.... So all you have to do is look for a 94 onwards diff out of an AUTO and it'll be 4.11.....

Yeah I'm in Oz...Brisbane ( well Ipswich actually ).....

There is an easier way. Get the clutch type lsd. Read this article from Dimequaterly. The method works perfectly. It is cheap and easy .

http://kmhafer.datsun510.com/Subaru.htm#What about Halfshafts and Stub Axles?

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

It's cheap, but not easy. I went looking for one, never found any.

Luckily a chap on here had one for sale, yet nobody bought it for the giveaway price... except for me!

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YELLOWDAT Posted: Tue Jun 14, 2005 6:09 pm Post subject:

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There is an easier way. Get the clutch type lsd. Read this article from Dimequaterly. The method works perfectly. It is cheap and easy .
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The whole point of my post is that although the Clutch type is WAY easier to use. I'm very much aware of that. They are very hard to find. ( As Fr3ak said )The VLSD's are more common and are reasonably priced. And like I've said. Once the driveshafts are done, you are now open to ANY LSD option. You aren't limited to any specific type.

IE: Clutch Type ; use original halfshafts, no mods needed.
Viscous Type ; use the custom halfshafts.

So if you have both sets of Halfshaft your options have increased greatly... [/quote]

Update: Nothing special as I won't be collecting my halfshafts till the end of the month. However:

When using the late Subaru Diffs. You will need to change the flange that the tail shaft bolts onto. So you'll end up with the Suby diff with Datsun flange.

If you have a rattle gun no probs. If you don't. Enjoy getting that nut off!!!!!

At last. I have my drive shafts.

Excellent job done on them. Here are the pics I promised.

These will go into a Subaru VLSD Circlip type....

The bolt doesn't actually hold the axle together. It was used to lock it in so it would stay true when welding. Its now permanently in there...

Enjoy....