I'm chasing definitive answers as to the difference between auto and manual 1600 shells - specifically relating to the positioning of the welded-in nuts in the floorpan / transmission tunnel for the gearbox x-member to attach to. Also curious if the auto shell actually has a larger transmission tunnel as is often stated, or whether that is an "old wives tale". I'm not after conjecture, only fact - I don't mean to sound harsh, but need this info to be accurate.

Basically, I'm looking at making a few S15 6 speed box conversion kits for L-series engines in a 1600. However, my shell is an auto, just wondering whether the gearbox x-member will need to be different for a manual shell, or whether there will be clearance issues in the tunnel.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

There is a tad more clearance in the auto shell. we had to rework the tunnel a small amount to fit the 6 speeds in manual shell.
The xmember can be the same if designed to fit both. Our trans xmember can fit 5 & 6 speed manual or auto.
Needs additional holes drilled in the reinforcing plate.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

How do you tell the shells apart?

Cheers,

Richard.

The auto has no shifter hole & mounts one section of the floor reinforcing plate to the rear.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks - looks like I'll have to sus out a manual shell. My x-member was made to suit my shell, there's no wriggle room to adapt it to something slightly different. With clearance - used behind an L-series, the 6 speed ends up closer to the front of the car. It cleared the tunnel in my auto shell with no modifications to the shell, except for moving the shifter hole about 2 inches rearwards.

Looks like its time to spend a day or more uncovering my other (manual) 1600 from the back of the shed, was hoping not to have to

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Im keen for one of these conversions.
Are you thinking of making adapter plate of chop and weld the bell housings like you have done before?

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Past:
A10 160J Coupe
R30 Turbo Manual
Present:
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My Standard Car)
KP710 160JSSS Coupe (My SR20DET 6Spd Car)
KP710 140J Delux (New Road Car)
KP710 Parts POS

If I make more, it'll be later in the year after I've done another race meeting or two to thoroughly test mine - it's done a 2 day meet at Phillip Island without issue, I just want to be sure (and I need to find the time).

It will be exactly the same as the one I've done, a cut'n'shut bellhousing. To work with an L-series engine, the S15 bellhousing needs to end up about 2 inches shorter, so there is physically no room for an adaptor plate (which would make the whole thing longer rather than shorter).

Still just toying with the idea, to make a bit of pocket money to help pay the racing bills and because a few people have expressed interest.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady