think my 180B booster may have died...

any idea how much they charge to reco one? and is a regular brake joint the best place to do it?

Most places I've found in sydney charge $300

i did my booster about 3 months ago and was piss easy1 $95.00 nissan part if you want to have a go yourself i can talk you through it and might post a how to.
but aren't datsport ones $300.00 new

didnt think the parts would still be available from nissan....

Better off just hitting MADDAT up for a brand new one mate, dont want to be messing around with a reco booster, fork out the coin once & be done with it & know that you can trust em haha

y wouldn't you have your booster recod? its only braking asist and you dont through your calipers away when a kit will make them function like new

^ plus 1. Why pay $300 for something you can do yourself. The old wasteful society is in full swing these days. The kits should be still avalible. How do you think all the other shops reco them.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Just adding, I didn't pay $300. I paid half that, which was worth it since I limited spare time.

I paid $180 a month agofor a Reco in Perth it's like new now it only toke 1 day

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DEZA
OzDat WA President

76 180B Wagon FJ20e, LT8 -daily
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Digging up this old thread. Think it could be useful...

Can anyone feel confident enough to post up a tutorial on how to recondition a brake booster? I may need to do it on mine. Not overly happy with my brake performance and think the booster may be stuffed.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

I could talk you threw it and send you some pics, don't have time fore tutorial at the moment but it really is that easy. You will need to make a tool to go where the master bolts to so you can sepperate the booster into its 2sections. It's the just a mater of un bolting the booster from the fire wall and dismantling it. The best bit of advice I could give you is to use the greas supplyd or you will never get the 2 sections back together as it will just grip the diagram.

But befor you go down this path test the booster and know for certen it's the booster, alsow easy to do.
1.start the engine and run for a few seconds
2.stop engine.
3.remove vac hose.
If you hear a suction it's ok
If not its ****

Alsow check the non return valve.

Hope this has helped Ross.

Thanks mate. I had poor brake performance on Red. So I adjusted the pedal take inside cabin and it bites a lot earlier, but you're leaning on the pedal nice and hard and its really taking its time to pull up. I have since changed the brake pads to something that should be a bit more grab.
To test i've pumped the pedal up hard then switched on the motor and can feel the pedal drop slightly (indicating the booster is working somewhat) have checked the 1-way valve and its fine too. But have not taken it for a run with new pads in yet so will see if that makes a difference after they're bedded to its braking capability. I'm so close to engineering so need to fix this last little gremlin. Have not tried your method so will have to try that but just sussing out options currently of what to do if its worst case.

I imagine you'd need to remove the vac hose pretty quickly after the engine has been switched off?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

no problem mate not really it should hold vac for at least a short while, if its has no vac by the time you have turned of your car and stumbled over to the engine bay its shagged

Did your little trick today. Booster seems shagged Although pedal does drop once the engine is switched on. Looks like i'm in the market for a kit for the booster.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

To test mine as i turn the engine on i put my foot on the pedal and then it drops(pump it before) if it doesnt drop its dead.

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Callan
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