Well i'm thinking of spraying my 1600 myself with acrylic paint so i can get it back on road because i don't have a spare $6000 laying around, so why not give it ago i say.

I know the mixture is 60:40 thinner/paint

I just want to know how long do i have to wait to put a clear coat on after i have applied the paint ?

I am using a solid & i know i don't need to but i just want a bit more protection.

Cheers

Yep you need a clear coat with Acrylic paint. The flash off time and thining details will be on the back of the can. I always mix bit of clear in the final colour coat to help with keying the two together. I spray on 4 to 5 coat of colour then the same again with the clear. It will come up great after a good going over with 1000 and 1500 grit then a good cut and polish with a buffer. Like anything with paint time and lots and lots of effort and sore fingers will deliver the goods.

In saying all this why do you think it will cost $6000 for 2 pak? The cost of the job will be very similar no matter what paint system you decide to go with. The paint only makes up maybe 1/4 of the total expense. If you have the body work and basic prep done another few weeks of double and triple checking everything prime and final rub down. Then of to a joint with a booth and I'd reckon between $500-$1000 is a fair price to shoot colour on a car and bake it for 40 mins in the booth. The finish of the gun with 2 pak is great and will be even better if it is buffed up a bit.

Do a bit of ringin around and a bit more homework

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

why is everyone so Anti Acrylic? its the easiest to paint with, sure 2pak has a better, harder wearing finish when done right.

i love the forgiveness of Acrylic paint as im no 'Pro' painter. With Acrylic You fcuk up and make a run, rub it back and go over again, try doing that with 2pak.

Sayin that, if i was ever going to Pay someone to professionally paint my car, it would be in 2pak

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Driving takes three abilities: Accelerating, braking, and turning.
More power only helps acceleration.
Lower weight helps all three.

Yeah a lot of shops wont paint anything which they havn't done the prep work on just incase of any sink back or fri-up.

I'm only thinking of doing acrylic because you can spray it at home and it will only stay in acrylic for a year or 2 while i get my home loan together. I would rather put that $6000 to that while the acrylic materials will only cost $500/$700 and my time.

I just want the car back on the the road =)

I agree, if i was paying for it 100% it would be going 2K.

Nothing wrong with Acrylic only it's not as hard wearing as 2 pak. I say go for the Acrylic mate. 2 Pak is bad sh*t with out the right safety equipment.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

great for DIY but 2pak gives greater gloss off the gun, especially using HS clears etc for less work with the buffer.

2pak = professional finish /Lung & respiratory issues I finished my apprenticeship and left the trade ASAP not a healthy work environment

You can have an amazing paint job, but if the prep work underneath is sh*t then the whole job is going to be sh*t no matter what paint system

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1971 B110
1971 P510
1974 H230
1974 B120

i sprayed my little mightyboy with 2pak industrial black gloss came up mint and bloody hard to scratch that was 5 years ago now paint is still just as clean as the day i painted it and not a scratch nor a chip on it. just a mongreal to keep the black clean. only gotta fart and the dust will stick to it lol

does that mean in a year or two your going to paint strip the whole car for the 2pak?

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Its not that i have no money, i just have a huge investment in my datsuns!

Yeah, once i'm a year or to into my home loan.

I just want the car on the road now so i can get the car engineered in 4 months.

makes sense, a quick respray now to get on the road until he has the time & $$$ to give it a bare metal job and do it right

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1971 B110
1971 P510
1974 H230
1974 B120

Thats the plan , if i can find out more about these engineering laws for the SR20.

Ring the RTA? I got my car qld modplated back in august when i heard new laws were coming in

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1971 B110
1971 P510
1974 H230
1974 B120

You won't get anymore protection by using clear. If you're using a solid colour, just keep chucking colour coats on. eg 4 coats colour + 2 coats clear is no better than 6 coats colour.

Nothing wrong with acrylic for a "hobby" car - 2 pac may be a little longer wearing if its a daily, left out in the weather, etc but for something that spends most of its time in the shed, acrylic is fine and will last forever.

Get the preparation done right, then bung on 6 or so coats of acrylic, then cut back with 1200 wet&dry, then hit it with the buffer and it'll look perfectly OK.

If you do go with clear, you don't really need to wait to apply the clear. When doing metallic cars in the past, I'd just keep going around the car - by the time you get back to where you started, its right to put another coat on (assuming you're doing the whole car rather than just one panel)

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

make sure you wipe the whole thing down realy well with wax and grease remover, and tht the car is spotless you dont want paint bubbling away or running away from spots.