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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:17 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
Posts: 355
Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
I'm going to start converting the rear to R31 skyline discs soon, as I picked up a set from the local wreckers just last Friday.

Pulled the drum off one side to check that the axle ends will fit into the rotors, plenty of room. Also stuck the rotor with caliper attached in one of my mags to see if the caliper's would clear them, and no probs there, about 4mm of room to play with.

Went to the wreckers and got what I thought I needed. Easiest to remove everything this way, in this order:

-Disconnected brake line from behind calliper, keeping the flexy hose and retaining clip
-Disconnected the handbrake cable by pulling out split pin and removing washer from retaining pin. kept the split pin and washer.
-Removed the 2 x 17mm caliper mounting bolts and slid the caliper off the rotor and kept the bolts
-Pulled the rotor off
-Picked up a wheel nut (dome head one works best) screwed it onto the wheel retaining studs a few threads and then belted them out one by one till i had them out of the axle, don't know whether they will fit the 120Y axles but they are longer than the 120Y ones.
-Removed the nuts from the axle seal/bearing retaining studs, and with some careful tapping with a hammer and a bit of levering with a pinch bar, pulled the axle out
-Removed the caliper mounting plate and backing/dust plate
-Found a dome head nut to fit on the axle seal/bearing retaining studs to screw on a few threads and tapped them out of the diff housing. Might need these as they are most probably longer than the 120Y ones.
-Plugged the axle and seal back into the diff housing
-Removed hand brake lever and all cabling, keeping all bolts and clips.

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Check for clearance inside your rim, you may need to buy some bigger rims.
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The rotor and caliper only just fit inside my wheels, 4-5mm to play with.
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Dummy fitted the rotor backwards onto the 120Y axle to see if the end of the axle would be small enough to fit inside the rotor, and to see if the PCD was the same, which it is.
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Pics of all the stuff that I got which you probably need.
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NOTE: You do not need hairy big toes to do this conversion
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Please bear with me on progress, I'm currently immersed in some heavy duty TAFE college study, and I'm trying to convince myself that when I remove the 120Y axle, I won't f*** the seal or bearing up.

_________________
Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

[ img ]


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:10 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Melbourne's East.
The worst part is setting up the brackets to suit your housing. The caliper mounting bracket also retains the wheel bearing so some gap needs to be filled in so the axle won't fall out. I ended up using a TRX bluebird setup as it was straight forward to fit up and the caliper was not a pain in the ass to work on.

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Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:21 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
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Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
RevHead001 wrote:
The worst part is setting up the brackets to suit your housing. The caliper mounting bracket also retains the wheel bearing so some gap needs to be filled in so the axle won't fall out. I ended up using a TRX bluebird setup as it was straight forward to fit up and the caliper was not a pain in the ass to work on.
So the TRX brakes just bolt straight onto the 120Y rear? or do you mean whole TRX rear?

I don't see what's so hard about working on the r31?

_________________
Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

[ img ]


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:30 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
Posts: 355
Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
Doesn't that little ring between the bearing/seal and end of the axle do all the holding?

_________________
Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

[ img ]


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 9:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 17, 2008 10:10 pm
Posts: 531
Location: Melbourne's East.
The drum brake backing plate retains the axle in the 120y and 1200. If you try and remove the axle you will see what I mean.

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Some people play hard to get... I play hard to want!


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
Posts: 355
Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
So i have to modify the caliper mounting plate from the R31 so that it retains the 120 axles? I was thinking of getting some new caliper mounts machined from some 25mm aluminium plate or stainless at work. I'll figure something out as i get stuck into it and see what you mean.

_________________
Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

[ img ]


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 10:18 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 03, 2009 1:20 am
Posts: 355
Location: Booyal, QLD (near Bundaberg)
May need these.

http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-brake ... valve.html

http://www.datsport.com/hydraulic-brake ... der78.html

I already got a CC Mitsubishi Lancer master cyl and booster from Fixit Wreckers in Bundy. I chose to run with it because my daily (Proton Wira) uses them and the brakes (4 wheel discs) are pretty damn good in it. If it becomes too much of a P.I.T.A i'll get the 180B setup.

_________________
Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

[ img ]


Top
   
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