I've just finished the 180b strut, verada rotor commodore caliper brake upgrade. It's made a big difference when the brakes are on, but I'm having to depress the pedal a fair way before they are kicking in. will fitting a bigger master cylinder fix this?

also I think I'm going to stick with the rear drum brakes, do 180bs have an adjustable proprtioning valve or do I need to fit one.

Cheers

7/8 master will do the trick.
180Bs do not have a proportioning valve as such.
Its just a pressure limiter.
non adjustable.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks Baz
and will this firm up the brake squish i'm getting?

Yes it will improve the performance.
also make sure the rear brakes are adjusted up correctly.
All freeplay adjusted from the brake pedal, 3mm free play

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks Baz. I'll give you a call for the mc shortly. (also a steering box brace)

But first I have to decide whether I'm gonna upgrade the rear brakes. Honestly I can't really be bothered but would one day like to get an engineers certificate for an injected and turboed l20 making around 130kw at the wheels.

Do people reckon the commodore calipers, 240k mc and standard drum brakes will be good enough for an engineers cert? Or should I upgrade the rears to disks?

Considering how cheap and fairly easy it is to replace the rear drums with disks, I reckon you should seriously consider it.
speak to an engineer first if you are worried about whether the drums will cut it.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

There are quite a few SRed 1600s getting around that still only run the factory drums. Talk to an engineer but I think you'll be alright. Is it a street car or a track car?

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

Yeah, but are they engineered?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Yes, I was thinking in particular of Tyrie's, 1600 Head's and BM510's. I've seen a fair few V8s getting around with drums on the back as well, no idea if they're engineered though. Like SR20Datsun said, speak to an engineer.

_________________
green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

It does sound easy but not that cheap, by the time I've bought brake lines and handbrake cables I reckon around $400, Using 2nd hand rotors calipers and brackets

In relative terms it's pretty damn cheap!
It's 1K to 1.5K to convert an old commodore, or mustang etc. to disk brake rear end.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

You can reuse your old brake lines, just rebend them. I did the conversion for the following costs;

Slotted RDA rotors - $150 delivered

Brackets - $30 pick n payless - welded by friend and redrilled by me

Brake lines - Re-ran existing for the interim so no cost (but will convert to braided with a local supplier that will do them for $150 which is all 4 lines at the back)

Handbrake cable - $140.

Calipers - paid $25, rebuilt myself with the $15 caliper kit you buy from auto one, worked a charm.

Summary
Rotors - $150 delivered
Brackets - $30
Brake Lines - $150 optional
Handbrake cable - $130 (no sob stories please)
Calipers - $25
Caliper rebuild kit - $15

Total
$360
$510 with braided rear lines

I wish I did my rear disc conversion sooner, the braking is so much more even. The actual labour was always going to be a pain in the a-hole without a hoist, but still worth it.