OZDAT :: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal - Page 5

OZDAT https://ozdat.com.au/forum/

Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal https://ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11303	Page 5 of 5

Author:	lance [ Thu Apr 07, 2011 7:53 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
Most TAFE's that do Automotive trades (Spray Painting and Panel Beating),run courses at night to teach the average person the ins and outs of whats involved,and how to do it safely and correctly.Courses usually run 2 nights a week for 4 hours per night,and are run over 2 semesters

Author:	sssr20 [ Tue May 03, 2011 11:58 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
i've been building cars for customers for near on 12 years now & i've tried most forms of blasting. in my opinion, if you can find someone who does plastic bead blasting use their services. if you can only find a sand blaster, best you strip the outer flat panels yourself & get the inner edges & door jambs blasted. no chance of warping that way. even with an experienced sand blaster i've found that the metal comes back work hardened from the heat & it's like trying to panel beat cast iron. lastly, soda blasting. but make sure you get a mate around adfterwards & have a 180 grit sanding afternoon on all surfaces inside & out or you won't get primer to stick for long. paint stripper can be used but bear in mind that it has waxes in it & if you do not clean it up really good after stripping it will come back to haunt you after the paint goes on. the best primer surfacer i've found is good old hichem red primer. it's a 4:1 2 pack & it's waterproof, plus it's the only primer that polyester hifill spray putty will set properly on. actually 2k epoxy primers are much the same. just my personal preferance is the red stuff. i've had panels sit outside for 2 winters covered in the hichem stuff & stripped it off without a hint of rust underneath. one thing with 2 pack paints is they contain icocyanates, a proven carcinogen. this sh*t will give you cancer & even with a respirator you are not fully protected as your eyes absorb ico's faster than your lungs, so a full fave air fed respirator is a really good idea if you are planning any sort of retirement lifestyle in your 60's.

Author:	SR20Datsun [ Tue May 03, 2011 12:07 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
HAHahahah Gold about the Isocyanates... Nasty stuff. ^all what he said...

Author:	Gary510 [ Thu Jun 02, 2011 11:57 am ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
got spam? kekeke

Author:	Shifty [ Thu Mar 14, 2013 6:47 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
Just adding to an old thread here (new guy). My experience agrees with a lot of the above. Soda blasting can cause headaches. Get a sandblaster to do the sills, creases, edges, etc - anywhere that there is a lot of structural rigidity. Do the roof and larger panels by hand, but again you can get a sandblaster to do things like the underside of doors, inside the doorframe, etc as they are all reinforced & even if not a tiny bit of warping in these 'invisible' areas won't be an issue. A tip is also to get them to use 'old sand' ie. sand that has been blasted with previously. It tends to be smoother and blast colder as a lot of the tiny sharp/hard edges are gone, and you are left with a finer blast media. Plastic or walnut shell are also the go apparently. Some people have complained over the years about residual sand getting into internal crevices etc through drain holes and such & never being able to get it out - although this will be common with any media blasting.

Author:	KenyDat [ Mon Apr 29, 2013 3:48 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
Good stripping old thread. I wish to do paint stripping but do not have access to any king of blasting. So my only options are paint stripper, the angle grinder wheel and the wire wheel stuff. Another thing, I have to do this myself at my own pace as engaging someone else will be expensive and they may (most of the time they) do there own stuff but most important I wish to stop the rust from eating up my Datsun! I will be stripping the paint by sections, my question is how do i stop the stripped sections from rusting before i finish stripping the whole shell?

Author:	SR20Datsun [ Mon Apr 29, 2013 4:38 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
Firstly, only strip the sections that you are going to work on. This should take the most amount of time and then you have paint on the other surfaces protecting it while you are working away. Then you can go over the sections that still have paint. I recommend 3M clean and strip disk, or anything similar. They don't heat the panel up and rip through paint fairly quickly and scuff up the metal ready for paint. They are the quickest and easiest way of getting the job done. There are a few products which stop rust while the panel is bare metal. WD40 seems to work pretty well, and it's easy to remove with thinners when you want to paint over the top, but you have to make sure you remove it all. There are products you can buy from paint shops to do the trick which have rust inhibitors and spray on clear. But you have to remove them before paint. I can't remember the name of it, but it's good stuff... I'm sure someone else on here has other experience!

Author:	trd385 [ Tue Apr 30, 2013 8:46 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
What I did was spray the panels that I stripped with etch primer, that way you can take aslong as you want to work on them and they wont get rusty then you can apply the hifill straight ontop, just gotta make sure you use the right etch primer to hifill/paint your going to use.

Author:	chimp [ Thu May 29, 2014 7:16 pm ]
Post subject:	Re: Chassis stripping, painting and rust removal
Guys. I have been meaning to put this for a while. When dry rubbing or sanding paint, make sure you wear a good quality dust mask. If you are rubbing old style Acrylic, the dust will contain lead. If you breath it in , it can be harmful. New versions of Acrylic DO NOT contain lead, but the chemicals are still not good for you. The same goes for dry rubbing or sanding 2 Pack paints. They don"t contain lead, BUT, they do contain "Isocyanates". These are probably more dangerous. The other issue is to make sure the dust does not spread to far, and you clean up all of it. Remember the dust is "poisonous". You don't want others breathing it in, or it getting into your living areas. Body fillers also have their own nasties, so should be treated in the same way.

Page 5 of 5	All times are UTC+11:00
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Limited https://www.phpbb.com/