I'm also interested in aerodynamic improvements for my 1600.
But I'm limiting myself to a full underbody tray and some brake ducts.


I'm a big fan of the 1600 GT2 Aero kits...

_________________
1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Nik,

Thanks mate. I am installing OpenFlower atm to have a play with that. Anyone have an accurate 3d 240Z model handy?

Understand stagnation points, check. Understand NACA ducts, check.

Re cowl hood, I reckon it looks pretty cool actually. But it wouldn't be an issue to NACA duct the guard right into the turbo inlet. Only issue is that I will be looking at modifying the guard with the vents for wheel well pressure we were talking about.

Wheel well exits for engine bay pressure definitely sound like the go. Then need to figure out best way to duct the air out nicely out of the wheel well, maybe just a curve section going from the strut tower to the guard area behind the wheel, can work that out. Also, adding air here will delay boundary layer separation caused by the front guard tapering in back to the stock width of the zed at the doors. Maybe considering that some vents in the guard will be the go so its not just exiting at one height.

Re rear wing/spoilers. The spoiler in that pic, according to what I have read, could actually work well. Spoilers can both increase downforce AND reduce drag, due to the improvement in underbody flow that comes with massive reductions in rear wake/turbulence. See Competition Car Downforce book for evidence (I don't have a scanner).


I'm not too sure what you are referring to with the tear top/boat tail rear end? I understand why/how a teardrop has a very low Cd, but I'm not sure what you're referring to in this context?

Now I'm off to try and play with this CFD software.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

Dave,

What I was referring to was more efficient means of creating downforce for the rear wing area. Have a geezer and see what you can find.. I'm sure you are more than capable of finding something better.
Like Beef said, it's 70's technology...

As for boat tail rear end, if you have a rear end that slowly converges at the rear, it is more 'slippery' than a square rear. So if you are going to get a body kit make sure it does this. (like the photo!)

Dave, I would like to know if you are going to have this as a street registered car or are you going to race this beast in under 5 litre Sports sedans? What's the deal? Plus, do you know of any cheap Z's that are going and a body kit to suit so that I can do the same? (anyone wanna buy an immaculate datsun 1600 and an SR20DET halfcut??? )

JDMDatsun, ME 2!!! There's alot of scope for improvement.... I've got a few tricks up my sleeve, but it's going to take AGES to implement... (TIME DAMN IT!!!)

Anyone want to donate a 1600 front half (shell even?) for the design of an air dam for a 1600?

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Actually I am going to have to agree with something that 260DET said earlier. And that was to make sure the wheel is flush with the outside of the car's guard. I was thinking about it, and remembered that boundary layers like to join back on the side of the car (depending on speed), plus keeping the side of the car as smooth as possible is the best thing to do (unless you would like to place a negative pressure zone behind the wheel well to do as I said earlier and start making negative pressure areas....

So, there's my 2.5 bobs worth again...



<sorry guys, but I was at work when I was typing all this stuff out and alot of it is disjointed... Plus not to mention about 6 years has passed since my last aerodynamics lecture...)

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Glueing the front & rear screen in with a flush finish will assist in drag reduction, also helps in making the body rigid.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Good point Baz.

Some other things I was thinking about. Making the underside profile of a front splitter more closely resemble a wing shape. Ie, a radiused leading edge to promote faster flow under the front splitter.

Blocking off the valence panel vents (to cabin) to do three things:

- increase the static pressure around the front windscreen
- which reduces the wing effect
- and increases the efficiency of the cowl bonnet.

Definitely going to have vents in the rear side of the front guards to reenergise that flow as it flows inwards again to the door. Can potentially even add small vortex generators to do the same.

Could also route the engine bay air under the car on the sides (via two ducts) to the slim inverted wings I plan on installing there. I think having more air in there will increase any downforce these wings make (minimal I know, but something to experiment with).

I will probably be putting on a wing something like the following, but likely multi-element (2 or 3 elements), and better designed end-plates, and not so fugly mounts



Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

Oh and Nik, I would ideally love to work my way up doing some sprinting with it just to start with to get a handle on the car, but would love to run in the open (under 6L) sports sedans (state then national if I get really rich).

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

Dave,

Are you over in the states at the moment?
(if you are, I hate you already!) Can you bring back some 1600 stuff for us? Maybe some SSS badges, and two door bits and pieces?

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I am yeah. Have been here for a couple of months. What do you need? I can get you an address to ship them to, but I'm not entirely sure when I am coming back.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

Also..

Ditch the glass completely and fit plexiglass all round.
Big weight reduction and improved COG.

_________________
1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Yes. I know.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD