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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 11:41 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 6:36 pm
Posts: 24
Tandata
Nice to see another 430 around. I have two at present. One on club plates and the other very close to going on. I have done a lot of work on the 430 so recognize the faults and problems you see. Just some recommendations:
1. Always use sockets or ring spanners where possible.
2. You can get the original Ryco oil filter or use the BA Falcon filter. They both fit.
3. Use a high zinc oil such as the Penrite 10-40 High Zinc. The L28 engine wants zinc on the cam and followers.
4. You will find rust at the bottom of the front guards. If you want to fix this the guards come of very easily.
5. Very few parts are available from Nissan. I did get some RHR Turn Indicator glass but the rest have been scrounged from wreckers etc.
6. Discs are almost impossible to get for the front and non existent for the rear. I can give you a contact for the fronts if you need them.
7. Rear caliper overhaul kits not available either. Fronts ok.
8 Upper and lower balls joints and rod ends all available on line locally at good prices. Check ebay.
9 Bet you that the heater core leaks. You will need to pull the complete AC unit from under the dash to fix this. Just about to do this on one of mine. When I find a supplier of heater cores I will let you know.

Where about are you. I will keep an eye out for you.

Brian


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 24, 2014 6:14 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:25 pm
Posts: 20
Thanks for the response! I'm in the eastern suburbs (Ringwood).

My somewhat cleanish engine bay is now a lovely yellow colour. I had the top heater hose leak yesterday, and the thermostat housing the day prior.

Getting new tyres tomorrow. Then plan on having the suspension looked at. I drove around with two largish friends last weekend, and my mud-flaps were scraping when we went over some undulations.

I got my passenger side front indicator from Japan, and it's slightly different to the normal one. You wouldn't know unless you looked at it up close.

Other than that, the car is driving well. Thankfully the mornings are becoming warmer, as the car definitely struggled to maintain idle when it was cold and not yet up to temperature. It means I can put off having that looked at for a while.


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 26, 2014 3:26 pm 
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Joined: Wed Aug 24, 2011 6:36 pm
Posts: 24
Ringwood is not too far from me. I'm in Viewbank (Rosanna East).
The rough running is a problem I had for a long time. Mine would also hesitate as you drove off from stationary. I always thought it was the carburetor needing servicing or leaking inlet manifold but ultimately I found putting a new set of points in and gapping them accurately fixed the problem. The best way to do it is take the distributor out of the engine and do the points on the workbench. Clean all electrical contact as well on the distributor. Its out the front of the engine and cops a lot of crap.
Good luck with the rest. Its a great cruiser even though its doing 3600rpm at 100K. I brought my first one down from Queensland (it was my fathers) and couldn't believe how comfortable it was and fast on a long trip.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 5:26 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:25 pm
Posts: 20
So! I'm back at it.

I tried to sell the car a few months ago because it's sitting around doing absolutely nothing. I had no interest and now it's time to do something.

I have issues with the car spluttering and stalling every now and again, and I assumed it was something to do with the carburettor. I sent it off to be re-furbished at Allan's Carby Service.

The car definitely runs better now from a cold start, and doesn't drive anywhere near as poorly as it did before but it does still have the odd hiccup.

At the same time, I'm hoping to re-spray the air cleaner cover. It's looking pretty bad since the radiator spilled fluid all over the engine bay. I've been copying the text stamped on to it so it looks kind of original once it has been painted.

The carburettor definitely looks nicer.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 5:31 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:25 pm
Posts: 20
I've got the car booked in to have the wheels re-furbished on Friday.

They will be going from a machined to a polished face because it sounds prohibitively expensive to have them machined, plus they can always machine the face down the track if it needs it.

The pocketed areas will be painted, and I need to decide on a paint colour. I initially thought that black would be OK, but now I am tempted to go for a gold colour to match the D on the centre cap.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:25 pm
Posts: 20
Today the wheel dudes sent me an e-mail because the colour didn't seem quite right.

I asked for gold, and they came back in what I suppose is an 80s period correct colour of poo brown.

They're going to send me a photo of champagne which hopefully looks a bit better, and then re-spray.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 28, 2015 8:10 pm 
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Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2003 11:11 pm
Posts: 2241
tandata wrote:
Today the wheel dudes sent me an e-mail because the colour didn't seem quite right.

I asked for gold, and they came back in what I suppose is an 80s period correct colour of poo brown.

They're going to send me a photo of champagne which hopefully looks a bit better, and then re-spray.

[ img ]
:shock: Hory Shet, those wheels look mint polished and painted, did not expect them to look like that.


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 17, 2015 9:08 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 20, 2014 5:25 pm
Posts: 20
Weeeeeell!

Non-stop drama with these wheels.

Went in for the second attempt at painting, but they couldn't prepare the surface properly on top of the old paint. The new paint flaked off.

I kinda want the car back, so I declined the opportunity for a third attempt; the wheels look OK as they are.

Only issue now is one of the centre caps was left on the wheel, and was destroyed by a pressure blaster. Hopefully they, or I, can source a new one!

Oh, and the second issue is the wheels look too clean for the rest of the car. Dat surface rust! And possibly deeper rust!

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 21, 2015 6:54 pm 
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Joined: Thu Feb 21, 2013 9:41 am
Posts: 38
Location: Christchurch - New Zealand
To get a clean look - paint the inner guards black - i used to use that spray on rubberized undercoat.

I realize your probably going to pull the guards off to repair rust so you could do it then - all the car yards normally do it lol

Also love the rubber splatter guards but the screws etc will be holding dreaded moisture

_________________
Currently own...

B210 120Y Sedan - FJ20ET Race Car Build
H230 Wagon / Van - LD28 Turbo powered - restoration to start


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 13, 2015 2:56 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 06, 2009 11:29 pm
Posts: 835
Location: Box Hill, Eastern Suburbs of Melbourne
Yeah best thing to do inside those inner guards is to clean them & paint them black, followed by slamming the sh*t out of the car so you can barely see in there also.

_________________
1973 H230 Wagon, 'ILL-260'
1975 911S Targa
1978 Torana Hatch
1999 GXE10


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:17 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 3:24 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Outer East Melbourne
This car is still in the ozdat forum, I purchased it and am getting it ready for RWC and club plates, will be at the Datsun display in November.


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 26, 2016 7:22 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 3:24 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Outer East Melbourne
By the way the car is 100% original except for extractors, the original tool kit is there minus the wheel stops. very happy with it, another toy.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 03, 2016 4:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Aug 21, 2016 3:24 pm
Posts: 31
Location: Outer East Melbourne
Shall continue with the challenge this P430 brings.
Under bonnet light now working, replaced from the spare car.
Rear sway bar refitted.
Rear brake calipers overhauled and refitted with new pads. Just need to refit rear brake hydraulic lines and bleed the system.
Rear suspension refitted.
Windscreen washer bottle fixed.
And lots of little things done.

RWC in the next 2 weeks and then on club plates in readiness for Melb Datsun Day at Yarra Glen 20/11.
The only body work I am planning before then is to refit one exterior door trim which fell off on the way home on a trailer.

Speaking about that, what does everyone use to put them back on with? I was thinking double sided tape, but can only get it in white locally, or should I use Sickaflex? (spelling) this has to come off again as the door needs some bog removed under this door protector.


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