Just got my welder and going to go get some sheet metal to practice with a old fender
What thickness is the bodywork on my 1600 or what should I replace the rust with

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120y (sold)
Rodeo Dually (daily)
510 sedan (project)

Around 0.8mm from memory ??

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Best to measure the thickness of the parent metal.
0.8mm is typical but as you would expect, different parts of the shell use different thickness metal.
It is futile trying to do repairs with a thicker gauge sheet than what is there already.
Get Zinc Annealed sheet for the repairs.
The days of plain old un-coated sheet steel are gone.
BTW what sort of welder did you get?
Oxy-acet I hope!

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

I agree with what was said above. For what its worth. I repaired my sections of the car with 1.1mm Gal. Compared to 0.8mm. Most of the sheet metal is 0.8 on the 16's.

I repaired my drivers floor, Both sills, boot, some guard repairs, and I didn't have any issues joining the two metals. I used the Gal because I already had it and other stuff went cheap compared to buying new steel. However, you MUST must grind the gal off for proper welds or else suffer porosity consequences.

Also, I made sure I used a good quality weld through primer and then ensured I got to my welds with fish oil or POR15/KBS or Cold Gal after. So it wouldn't rust again.

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Yeah I use Gal sheet as well. Works fine. As said remove the gal where yoru welds will be other wise it will spit slag every where and the weld will be super sh*t. 1.1 is a bit easier to shape as well IMO. When you have removed the gal you'll fine the sheet will be close to the .8 original material any way. Plus 1 for Gold Gal. That sh*t rocks!

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Gas welding doesn't care about galv coating!

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Too true. I like my mig and tig though. Gas for shinking and cutting

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

cheers for all the advice

i just bought a cheap gaseless mig

got a little bit of 1mm Gal today so will have attempt tomorrow on some crap parts

any tips as ive never welded EVER?

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120y (sold)
Rodeo Dually (daily)
510 sedan (project)

Practice, Practice, PRACTICE!

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net

Plus 1 or the practice. If you know anyone that gat weld get them to show a few tricks. Also clean clean clean. If there is rust or pain remove it before you think about welding it. Use a strip disk or wire wheel. Be careful when using liquids to clean material. Some can let off deadly gases/toxins when heated or welded. Enjoy!

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Is your welder both gasless and gas, or just gasless? Using Argon gas makes welding thinner metal so much easier.
Youll have more cleanup and heat when welding without gas...
There are plenty more welding tips on the forum if you search.

I think i read on this forum not to use brakeclean to clean parts before welding... it turns toxic!

galv is toxic when it burns that white fluff is the stuff you dont want to breathe in also make sure the etch or filler is compatable with galv or it wont stick unless you clean it off with a sander i know u poll brand is compatable on galv coating but i still remove it but never try touch the metal with bare hands were the filler goes on where you cant clean it after .

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1600s arent the only datsun