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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 9:51 am 
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Yep, it really does chew through some air. I have a reasonable 12cfm compressor, and it can't keep up when sandblasting.

Gets annoying, as you have to blast for a few minutes, then stop for a while for the compressor to catch up again.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2007 11:03 pm 
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hold up fellas, soda blasting is problematic. that'll teach us for doing research from salesmen

http://spi.forumup.org/viewtopic.php?t=156&mforum=spi

http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/soda-bl ... 83749.html

these guys seem to know what they're on about, individuals talk like they work for resto shops and there's been some major dramas with soda blasting. Primers aren't adhering properly to the soda-blasted surfaces. Cleaning the surface is a prick and apparently people are still have problems even when they do.

I might drop that idea before going much further, as the guys there mentioned - there's sh*t loads of other blasting media better suited for cars anyway

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 12:59 pm 
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In my opinion, soda blasting seems the most desireable way to STRIP or CLEAN, but there remains the issue of re-coating.
I agree, there are problems there :roll: :roll:
I guess the bottom line is to talk it over with your chosen painter and or paint supplier, before committing to any process.

Garnet blasting is probably more suitable, it is just so messy and dirty.
Heat buildup in the panel is also a nasty that you must avoid :shock:

I have always said the only way to enjoy grit blasting anything is to get someone else to do it :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 09, 2007 3:50 pm 
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Nissanman wrote:
I have always said the only way to enjoy grit blasting anything is to get someone else to do it :lol: :lol:
I agree with you there...... grit is the worst for it, media bounces back and if you have anything with a hole in ie. gloves you absolutely get cained plus the suit weighs a ton........ and is WARM..........

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 6:09 pm 
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[/quote]
Quote:
Hmmm whats the catch with the soda blast thing
Well, our friends in the Good 'Ol U S of A came up wih a real safe effective and reasonably cheap way of renovating that grand ol' lady, the Statue of Liberty.
Soda blasting the external skin :wink:[/quote]

guess the statue of liberty didnt need to be resprayed rofl, thats a real let down about the primer not sticking thing :( had my hopes up. is there anything wrong with stripping a car by hand with a sanding block and sand paper?? other then it will take years. if i was going to do a bare metal respray i would want to do it in a way which i could be possitive that the paint isnt going to peal or bubble two years down the track even if it meant spending a **** load of time in prep


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PostPosted: Sat Nov 10, 2007 7:47 pm 
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hey fellaz,
well i got my 2c for yaz..
If sand blasting is to problematic and can heat up panels and cause warping ..
and this soda blasting is too problematic with primer not sticking to it,,

why not try bead blasting (plastic beads used instead of sand) .. tho i dont know much about it , it is supost to be really effective and not warp panels
but as for cost mm i got no idea :?
thats the way i would want to get my datto done with.. but if money is a problem the old paint stripper and 3m wheels is really the only way to go!

newayz just my 2c ...

cheers
steven

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:24 am 
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paint stripper/3m wheels are great, but the problem is getting into those hard to reach places. The recesses in the top of the firewall for example, just near the bottom of the A pillar

those little bits are all im worried about really

ive been looking into mediablasting pretty thoroughly lately. there are many many medias you can use, from sand to silica to soda to carbon based to steel shot. all of them are pricier than sand, but less dangerous to your lungs (except silica and to a lesser extent, carbon)

i was going to make a little writeup on media blasting as a whole because I cant find any single place that'll tell me everything i want to know. the bits im stuck on are appropriate flow rates (at given psi ratings) for air compressors and a few techniques for blasting thin panel steel

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 9:26 pm 
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Location: south gilford wa
quick question wat pens are safe to draw on primer eg to circal small dents and stuff ??

i was thinking lead pensil ??

thanks

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:52 pm 
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Location: Creswick, Vic
I rekon blasting of any kind is going a bit far for a backyard paint job. Unless you already have the tools. I've never had a problem with paint stripper. You can do a full car easy enuff. Its just abit messy but yr gonna get mess whatever method you try.
You should consider ripping all yr carpet out and using fish oil anywhere rust is known to be. And sound deadening tar works good too, just cover yr whole floor. again its messy but it works.
I've been known to fill whole door sections with nothing more than sheet metal, fibreglass and bog. makes it look brand new again.

Good luck with it all. And be patient. it takes time to get it done right.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 8:56 pm 
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Quote:
wat pens are safe to draw on primer.
Any sort of permanent marker or paint pen. It doesn't really matter cause you'll paint over it anyway.

Also, you can buy aerosol spray packs at bunnings cheap enuff. Good for smaller sections, as it only has about 500ml mixing/paint jar. Again, i've been known to patch up a whole car with this.

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dattos aren't MEANT to be nice - they're meant to hardcore - occasional road use only, semi rally / racing cars with stripped interiors, full cages and a pair of webers.
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Last edited by Rat Dat on Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:13 pm 
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I think the best bet for car re-builds is plastic bead blasting.
It's really easy to clean out (plastic beads are easy to vacuum/use air to push them back out.)
It doesn't damage lead body filler (used from factory)
It doesn't remove rust, which is good, because you cut that stuff out anyway.
The panels aren't warped due to excessive pressure/stretching the panel/temperature

For the areas that are left (I got my whole car plastic bead blasted), and the rusted areas, I used garnet which really seems to rip the rust out. It does heat up the panel, but if you are only using it for small areas, then you are set.

Plastic bead blasting also leaves a plastic coating over the panel so finger prints don't effect it that badly, until you are ready to paint, and then you hit the bare metal with a clean 'n strip disk (a plastic impregnated mesh) and some appropriate thinners to get rid of the plastic film.

Highly recommend this process. Use a good 2K etch primer that is has a proportion of Zinc, and your car will be rust proof for another 35 years.

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 06, 2008 11:58 pm 
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What exactly is a 3m disk? i've got a bit of surface rust to clean up sounds like this is the go?


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 8:33 am 
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3M disk is basically a plastic version of a wire brush. The plastic sort of looks like a whole bunch of mesh (similar to scotch brite) mixed in together, and squeezed into a disk shape (with a bit of air inbetween), and then basically impregnated to make the mesh stick together with some small abrasive thrown in for good measure. They are fantastic.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 1:36 pm 
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Sounds like what im after
cheers :wink:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:33 pm 
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3M Scotch-Brite Clean and Strip disc: -

http://products3.3m.com/catalog/au/en00 ... utput_html

Get the largest diameter disc you can find, the small ones aren't very cost effective.
Lets face it, they all get small eventually, then you can use it to get in close to corners etc.
Oh, and DON"T run them at HIGH SPEED :shock:
Maximum RPM 3,000
THEY WILL DISINTEGRATE WITH CENTRIFUGAL FORCE :oops:

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Last edited by Nissanman on Thu Feb 07, 2008 5:44 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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