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Scottie
 Post subject: Supercharged L18
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 1:27 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Hi all... I was %99 certain that i would get rid of my l18 and go for an sr20 conversion next year... i have been talking to a guy who used to do up motors and he told me today that he can get me a supercharger for 700... it has had very little use... he reckons that new these things go for 2-2.5 grand... apparently is a 6cly diesel supercharger and is similar to ones used on 4gze toyota engines... he thinks that this s/c should be a pretty easy mod to fit to a l18 and with around 7psi should punch out around 160kw... this to me seems a bit more appealing than an sr20 because of costs, fewer mods, no engineers etc etc... has anyone done this before??? is there anything i am missing... little costs or things that i might not think about... anyone know of any pages that could help me???
thanks...
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nitros13
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 1:50 pm 
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you could go to adelaide jap motorsport (if you live in adelaide) or mail order a toyota spuercharger for about $400...

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Nissanman
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 1:53 pm 
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Hi Scottie,
I don't know what fuel system you intend to use but I'm fairly certain that the seals in the diesel S/C will not like gasoline :oops:
If this is the case, and it certainly is with a diesel tubocharger, unless you can convert it to handle gasoline, it may not be suitable :x

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Blown L18
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 2:24 pm 
one Word for the "BEST" gear for this sort of thing ,DATSPORT! :!:
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Warps
 Post subject: Re: Supercharged L18
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 4:24 pm 
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Location: Gold Coast
Scottie wrote:
this to me seems a bit more appealing than an sr20 because of costs, fewer mods, no engineers etc etc...
Best to check on the legality of it. I was under the impression that any mod involving forced induction would still need to be engineered. Talk to your local traffic authority, or better yet, an Engineer authorised in approving mods.
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BensDR30
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 5:13 pm 
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Location: South Australia
160kW @ 7psi from an L18

Not likely....

160kW @ 18psi is more like it

You DO NOT want to run an SC12 or SC14 at the rpm's required to get that kind of boost. It will probably fly apart....

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pro240c_notloggedin_again
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 6:05 pm 
160kW is bit much to expect at 7psi.
i'd say expect maybe 100kW at the wheels with good tuning and an elec dizzy...but a SHITLOAD more torque and driveability and ability to pull hard from low rpm.
in the world of big kW figures from mega buck engines, 100kW atw might not sound like a lot, but in something like a 1600/180B it's a fair bit for the weight it has to push.

he was prob telling you that kW figure just so you'd jump at the chance to buy it.

buy a 1G SC14 (NOT the ex 4AG SC12) with 2 draw thru SUs or a weber and run the factory boost setting of 4.5psi until it's tuned.

it'll seem like a lot of power gained for very little money, even if it does just make the ton at the wheels 8)
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vx225
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 26, 2003 7:17 pm 
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
Warps, Victorias rules are a lot more lenient than others, certain mods require an engineers certificate, but forced induction is not one of them.

Scottie, this guy sounds a bit of a con artist, 160kw is optimistic, I'm currently doing a SC14 (1GGZE) blower, efi, L18 build, seeing as you're in Melb, your welcome to wander over and have a look at the blower and whats required to fit.

Pro 240C, it's not a turbo, to alter boost requires replacing pulleys, not simply playing with wastegates, machining pulleys thing cost a few quid, working out pulley ratios to obtain correct boost levels are also a pain, you get one pulley and one only.

rgds Eddie

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Baz
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2003 3:29 pm 
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A std l20 will give 95rw kw with 7lbs boost on Falcon weber carb with sc14
Have ran sc14 for 30,000k @ 13lbs with modified engine with the only prob being a shattered piston when my wife leadfooted it with no water in the bottle for the water injection. Altho the sc14 was starting to get a bit noisy by this time. ( guess it depends on the condition of the blower when you buy it)You will not do this for $700 and get reliability. Best best use L20 head on L18 bottom end. 7.6 comp ratio. And if I do anymore of these it will be with injection & ign maps. You cannot beat the torque of a supercharger and ease of driving. The best part is you can throttle steer & of course no lag. The best supercharger to use is an Opcon Autorotor.
Cost about the same as a new high flow ball race turbo. Can pump up to 3.5 bar absolute & depending on size will run over 15,000 RPM constant.

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Guest
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2003 8:41 pm 
Baz, how much power (rw kw) did you get running it @13 lbs with water injection :?:
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Baz
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 27, 2003 8:57 pm 
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Never put it on the dyno.
It has a FULLY ported head. 16/54 cam.
Revs very very hard, but not much sense going over 7000 as power peaks out. Would not try to estimate how much it had but a mech of mine said he was able to see off a std WRX. I know with 7lbs a webered FJ went backward at a great rate of Knots.
Supercharged HP means not a great deal as its the torque that does the trick. Rob from perth was telling me an autorotor SR with 500 HP was seeing off that 1000HP jun motor. :wink:

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neph
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2003 5:00 pm 
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Location: Melbourne
Hey guys, sorry to ressurect an old thread.

Ive been talking to engine rebuilders about getting my L18 refreshed, and a mild cam.

In order to have an L18 prepped for a 1ggze install what is required? How low should the compression be to make it safer?

Also, where is the best place to get/canablize an efi setup for an L18?

Im thinking: Elect dizzy, EFI, then rebuild, then install blower later.

Thanks for any advice!

Ivan

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vx225
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2003 10:17 am 
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Location: Melbourne, Vic
I'm using L20B ULP pistons in mine, which should lower compression in an L18 to @ 7.8:1, using one of Baz's blower pulleys the 1GGZE unit should realise @11 psi of boost. Also I'll be getting Baz to build a new head for this setup.

I'm actually using a factory L18E injection manifold, not the most effecient thing available but will help retain the stock look Im after.

My injectors are actually from an early 164 Volvo, which flow 380cc/min each and are dirt cheap.

Some form of ignition control is highly recommended, so I'm using a Deltamax ignition controller which works really well with L series electronic igintion dizzy, and is pc programmable.

Fuel will be handled by a DIY megasquirt fuel only ECU, which is fully programmable.

Having both fuel and spark completely adjustable, combined with the front mount, the engine package should be pretty bullet proof, I doubt I could say the same about the poor bluey 5 spd that will sit behind it 8)

rgds Eddie

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samuel
 Post subject: Re:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 30, 2020 1:24 am 
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Posts: 4
Quote:
Quote:
vx225 wrote: *Sat Dec 20, 2003 10:17 am
I'm using L20B ULP pistons in mine, which should lower compression in an L18 to @ 7.8:1, using one of Baz's blower pulleys the 1GGZE unit should realise @11 psi of boost. Also I'll be getting Baz to build a new head for this setup.

I'm actually using a factory L18E injection manifold, not the most effecient thing available but will help retain the stock look Im after.

My injectors are actually from an early 164 Volvo, which flow 380cc/min each and are dirt cheap.

Some form of ignition control is highly recommended, so I'm using a Deltamax ignition controller which works really well with L series electronic igintion dizzy, and is pc programmable.

Fuel will be handled by a DIY megasquirt fuel only ECU, which is fully programmable.

Having both fuel and spark completely adjustable, combined with the front mount, the engine package should be pretty bullet proof, I doubt I could say the same about the poor bluey 5 spd that will sit behind it 8)

rgds Eddie


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