Hey guys,

The whole car has been done for under $2k including car and everything to get it to RWC.

Specs:

s13 SR20DE - stock as a rock (factory ecu)
R30 box with sr20de bellhousing
1200 Auto tailshaft (untouched)
Sunny struts with daves old z springs (rear) and tokiko shocks
Rear Bilistiens from a Como
FTO seats ($40 from auction)
Cheap steering wheel (the orig was enourmous, so big i could hardly get in/out)

Costs (RWC):
Cost of Car: $175
Front Shocks: Free - old 1600 ones with a spacer
Front Springs: Free - cut original 240z rears
Pedals $14
ball joints: $62
2 tyres: $36
Windscreen: $150
Bilistien Rear shocks: $83
FTO seats: $40
Total to date: $560

Cost(SR20DE Conversion):
Engine: $250
R30 Box = $75
Clutch = $405
Steel for engine mounts = $5
VN Radiator = $30
Fuel Line = Free (thanks Juls)
Fuel pump = $16
Bearing/sleave/gasket for gearbox = $50ish
Alternator = $50
Starter = $50
Relays/Wires/Fuses = $22
Misc bolts etc = $36
Exhaust = $350
Pod Filter = $15 (supercheap I think cos it was pink)
Gearbox Metal = $5
Radiator hoses = $30
Total $1389

Grand Total: $1949

There were also some other bits which were kinda err... well found in the pocket after a trip to the wreckers, these included fuel hose, hose clamps and stuff like that!

Its still got a few issues whcih im slowly fixing up... vacuum hoses to no where and that type of stuff . But now its running and on the road i thaught its time to post some pics:



Any questions feel free to ask, while its still fresh in my head Oh and fuel econ is very simlar to a12 manual around town!!! and im sure it would kick a12s arse on the freeway.

Special thanks to:
Juls - Mig welding the engine xmember and seat rails.
Az - Tig welding the top water outlet so it didnt point directly into radiator.
#ozdat boys - For giving me motivation to prove em wrong

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Nice....

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Good stuff. Can you do out a price listing of everything so far? Fuel system etc?

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$2000 challenge bluebird - no more.
RPS12 - 80s-o-rama. Currently dropping 200cc, gaining a cam and gaining a turbo.

HE-LARIOUS!

When do I get a ride?

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Can we do some skids in it already or what rich?

Cheers,

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Dan.
Official organisor of Thursday nite pizza.

awesome! what mods were done to the crossmember and/or sump to make it go in?

i love it dude - THE ULTIMATE SLEEPER. and economical to boot.

you'll have make a run down the 1/4!

what brakes you running? just stock sunny brakes?

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***OUT OF ACTION***

Yeah you gotta love that.

Top work there Richard

I'm sure it goes like a cut snake.

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1975 P610/180B SSS ex PRC3 Rally car (parts car)
1974 P610/180B SSS (parts car)
1972 P510/1600 Currently sitting untouched
1977 P610/180B Wagon Daily Driver

Cool stuff Rich

Good one Richard... that motor sure is a snug fit

Excellent work.... you should be able to surprise a few at the traffic lights ... as long as they don't notice the absence of that characteristic 1200 burble ....

What radiator is that?

Cheers, Neil

Radiator is a V6 VN (series 2, series 1 had no filler).

I'll update the main post with some more pics and my list of costs so far.

The fuel system is pretty dodgey, but no issues with fuel surge as yet (without a surge tank).

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Thats awesome richard, I checked out your site a few weeks ago and was impressed with the DIY.

I'm also interested in a price list and tool list (welder, special drill bits etc).

Nice work.

Any plans to pick up SR20DET stuff and attach it?

Dave

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USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

oh yeah .... Thats a big 10-4, good buddy!

As for tools, I purchased a welder off ebay for $56 (which was used for tacking) and a set of decent drill bits ($150 from bunnings). Thats pretty much all i purchased.

The welding was done by Julian (drives an R31 and comes to ozdat functions)

Heres some pics of the xmember:




Also mounting the clutch master (which i tucked away in the gearbox at pick-a-part):


The above picture shows where the holes were made. This is in the reinforced part of the firewall so it should be plenty strong enough!



Above: Engine clearance to the clutch master

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attached, my cheap and nasty (but seems to work ok) fuel system.

The 50cm of 1/2" hose acts like the surge tank along with the fuel in the return line. So far so good, although i dont know how long the fuel pump will last, as it does have slightly pressured fuel coming to the feed side of it.

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