Hey guys....here are some pics form our recent race meeting.

Looking good under brakes


Showing an RX7 the way around Wakefield


OOPS


Got passed the GTR


Accident damage is mostly superficial

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

Awesome stuff mark! Teh Sunny can never loose!!!!!11one
It's stance is much better then at DatNats, IMHO.
I hope you have a spare bumper...

So, what?s next/left to do with regards to the cars development side of things?

_________________
Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Thanks Lurch.

The car is sitting a little lower than at Datnats - still got more to go.

I picked up two perfect bumpers today...so that's one part of the puzzle taken care of.

What's left - more like what's next....... every time we take the acr out, we learn sooo much about it. We ran that weekend with no intercooler....running WI only. While it worked really well on the dyno, in the real world it was not quite what we needed. The WI injection is controlled by boost....and because it is only on when boost is > 5psi, it was not on enough (or long enough) in the twisty parts of the track...this led to inconsistant inlet temps.

So the first thing we are doing is building a new intercooler with a PWR core. Then we will be looking at the rear suspension to try and get he back of the car to stick to the road better. The new front end was so good, that every time I turned the car into a corner, the back end broke loose and tried to swap ends on me.

We will also be cutting the rear flares off and reshaping the inner wheel well to give us more clearance in the rear end so that we can get the car lower.

We will alkso be adding a rear sway bar, and trying the car on 14" wheels at our next test day..... so quite a number of things to do.

Mark.

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

Sweet pics

Why the change to 14" wheels and what are you hoping to acheive with a rear bar?

Does the rear end break loose when you turn in or apply throttle?

Rear breaks loose on turn in. The car also has way too much body roll, so we are looking at reducing that through the rear bar...and also the possibility of a bigger front bar.

With the 14" rims, we are testing what will happen with the car sitting lower. The car was originally built around 14" wheels, but has never run on them..... It will be interesting to see what difference it makes.

Mark.

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

Mark,

Rear bar will help reduce the body roll, but will also add oversteer.

_________________
Recommended trading: datto-510

I'm with Beef!

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Mark didn't say more rear bar, he said through the rear bar. Ie, adjusting it `softer'.

Dave

_________________
USA Daily: 2014 Nissan GT-R, very minor modifications for the track
USA Project: 1978 280Z, minor suspension upgrades, VK56DE conversion in progress. SOLD
AUS Race Car: 1973 240Z, L28ET, Autronic, GT35R. SOLD
AUS Project: 1972 1600, 3200km old S15 SR20DET, ground up rebuild. SOLD

adding means more in my books..

_________________
Nissan Bluebird - S15 SR20DET
Nissan R30 Skyline - RB26DEmassiveT Project car
Nissan R32 GTR - RB26DETT

Yes I am aware of the effects of adding the rear bar. There are other "issues" that we believe are also contributing to the problem. These will also be addressed at the same time. The car is getting soo much body roll that it is trying to pick up the inside rear wheel. If we can limit the body roll, we can keep some "weight" on the inside rear tyre. The rear bar will be quite small, and is more an experiment than anything..... for the sake of a few hundred bucks.....it's worth a try.

It will be interesting to see how the car performs on 14" wheels (in place of the 15's). We will be able to run the car a bit lower - will be interesting to see how this effects things.

Mark.

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

if the rear end is breaking loose early - maybe you're trailbraking a bit too much into the corners?

like, maybe you need to turn in a bit earlier to try and induce a little bit of understeer which should help keep it neutral.

not telling you how to drive either - just a thought

_________________
frankenstein projects R us.

The Republic of Western Australia -
Propping up the Nation's Economy since 1901.

Pro....you are a legend!

I wonder if this has anything to do with the problem I had with bleeding the rear brakes....perhaps the calipers are not completely releasing before I turn in......thanks champ - something else to check!

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!

Mark,

I'd be checking the roll centre of the rear end, and the roll centre of the front end. Making changes to these first would be a better fix over a roll bar IMHO. You can add a roll bar later when you have reached the 'designed maximum adjustment' for the roll centre adjustment. (so in other words, you can't weld a plate big enough on the rear end for roll centre adjustment!!!)

14's should be better, but if you are lowering the car further (so shorter springs) then your roll centre will change, and therefore you may get more body roll, and hence camber change and then breaking traction.

The 14's and lower rolling diameter rubber should lower you C.O.G. which is a bonus. This effects the roll centre moment acting on the C.O.G.

This seems to happen on all dato's with the semi-trailing arm rear end. It just wasn't designed to be lowered as much as we would like too! Check your roll centre, and modify, and I guarantee that quicker laptimes will be yours.

The thing is, you probably already know about this as you were sort of pointing to "other changes" that you were investigating.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Mark,

I figured there'd be some other stuff going on, which is why my response was kinda short.

I won't give you any advice - seems like you've got enough as it is. My only comment would be: my understanding is that more rear bar would increase the tendency of the inside rear lifting - it will help transfer weight to the outside front. I'm not sure what's happening in the big picture, so you've probably got other things planned to sort that out.

_________________
Recommended trading: datto-510

SR....what you're saying is right...except we have a solid rear axle - not trailing arms to deal with. We are planning a watts link down the track with roll cenre adjustment (aka V8 supercar style).

Beef....thanks for the input mate...you can always learn more. One thing the car does is lift the inside front out of the tight corners....the rear bar is not "the fix" but having the bar there gives us more options in terms of balancing the car.

Mark.

_________________
www.full-throttle.com.au
www.boostcooler.com.au

When the Flag drops........... the Bullshit stops
Go hard or go home!