Yeah, it will (hopefully) end up exactly how I want it. And I'll have done pretty much everything on it , including all bodywork, paint, modification design and fabrication, pretty much everything except stuff like machining of engine components.

Only thing is that I've been going for 4 years already, probably take at least another 2 to finish.

Then I've only got 4 more Datsuns to do up after this one

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Good on you Dave

This will for sure be the best 180b in Aus, all the work you have put into it is leap yrs in front of what others and my self have ever dreamed of doing!

Can't wait for the day I'm cruising next to it

_________________
"You stay classy OzDat"

Mine's still just a shell, a pile of parts and a lot of half finished bits and pieces lying round the shed . Your one is making some impressive progress at the moment

The funny thing is that I only started doing mine up when I couldn't sell it for $500. If I had a buyer back then, I'd be working on one of my 1600's now instead.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I've decided I want to try to get the shell painted this summer so I can start re-assembly over winter. So, I've moved back onto bodywork again This is the 2nd last bit of rust in the whole shell Last bit is in the radiator support panel, underneath the radiator.

I've also had a bit of a change in plan - I'm thinking of painting it white rather than the light metallic blue I originally had in mind. White was its original colour, and I want to use the original door trims, etc which are in perfect condition but are brown (which I don't think would really match the blue exterior)


Half-fixed



Here's what it looks like now



The repaired "floor" of the wheel well - there's 16 new pieces of metal in there, all carefully shaped with just hand tools. Pretty much all the metal with surface rust (lower right hand third of the photo) is newly fabricated.



All ready to weld the repaired section back in, and its done

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Supercharger modifications also completed. The MiniCooper S runs its water pump of an extension to the rear of the supercharger. Since I don't need this, I thought I'd remove and blank this bit off. As usual, blanking plate was cut out with hacksaw, drill and file, and polished with sandpaper and Brasso

Simple enough, except I spilled the "supercharger oil" that was in there and had to buy a little bottle of it from the local Holden dealer (the only model of car I could think of that runs an Eaton supercharger and is fairly common was the commodore). Easy enough, except for having to pay $45 for 100ml of oil . In comparison to your garden-variety engine oil, if supercharger oil were sold in 5l containers, that works out to be $2,250 for a 5 litre container . Since there's no meshing gears in this section anymore (I removed one when I took the plate off the back) I probably didn't need the special oil in there anymore but thought it was better to be safe than blow up the supercharer because I didn't put oil back in.

Water pump drive for mini



Off it comes (and out comes the oil)



New blanking plate

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Hwzt.

Awesome work. Following the latest developments. My 610 has an L20B. A Supercharger looks like the appropriate item to add on.
Did you ( or will you ) lower the compression in the motor to accomodate the supercharger? ( turbo motors need less compression that naturally aspirated ones )
Cheers.

Great work Dave.

WHITE!!!! I knew you would come around.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Jaime, yep, compression will be lowered a little by using an open-chambered U67 head off an L20B rather than the A87 head off the L18. Won't change the compression too much, I'm still looking at just under 9.0:1 as I'm running flat top pistons (picked up a set of forged flat top pistons cheap ). I can adjust the compression a little once its all mocked up by machining the crown of the piston a little if neccessary. I'll be running both an intercooler and water injection to keep everything under control so I'm hoping it will be OK at the higher compression.

I believe all 610's over in the US ran the L20B ? Or at least the later ones ?

Nik, white is looking good . I was thinking the light metallic blue would look good, especially as some SSS's came out with a similar colour from the factory, but now I'm starting to think sticking with the factoy colour would suit my "style" / "personality" / whatever you like to call it. I prefer old cars that look reasonably original (ie not bright pink with chrome 20" wheels).

I reserve the right to change my mind yet again though

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

going the route of finishing the shell off is a wise decision i reckon, as once it's painted you will be looking at it all the time, as it wont be under the cover as much, and then assembly can happen on the car and it will give you more reasons to be in the shed to finish it off

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

I hear you. The U67 cylinder head will lower your compression. Your plan sounds good.
Yes, all Datsun 610s use the L20B engine except the early 73 models, which were badged Datsun 1800. Those early ones use the L18 motor. None ever used the L16 ( like some european Datsun "160B"I have seen. )

I am glad you are not a fan of bright pink 20" chrome wheeled Dattos....neither do I

Jaime.___________________________________________________________________

The main reason I've done it like this is that when I was restoring vintage bikes, I'd paint the frame first then I'd always be scratching it when doing the rest of the job. My aim this time was to get most of the fabrication done while the shell was still primered, then strip it back down, paint it and fit the already-made mechanicals to it. Which I have pretty much done, so its paint time

I've actually been spending a reasonable amount of time in the shed recently, I've finally just about got my elderly parents sorted out so I have some more spare time to do Datsun stuff

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Looking good Dave!

Speaking of old Motorbikes...

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Were we

I'll need to decide one way or another very soon. Its stored at my parent's place, but looks like they will be moving out soon due to ill health.

Next time I'm over there, I'll try to remember to take the camera and get photos. Not as easy as it sounds - you've seen photos of my shed, that's taken only 5 or 6 years to get into its current, rather "cramped" state. I got my hoarding genes from dad, and his shed has been there for 40 years, so you can imagine what his is like. The Ariel has been at the back of his shed for probably 20 years

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I am working on my 1982 Honda CB750F cafe racer.

Pfft, modern rubbish

I've never ridden a road bike newer than 1956

I love cafe racer style bikes - I have most stuff to build a "Velocette" cafe racer - 1948 OHC KSS engine in a 50's swinging arm frame. One day I might have time / money to build it up

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady