No worries - might pay to hold off coming round for a week or two (especially with a new baby ), as my whole family has been struck down with a bad dose of the flu the last week or so.

rb25detsss - I either used POR15 - http://www.ppc.au.com/restoration.htm - or painted it straight away with epoxy primer.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Use etch primer

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

thanks dave keep up the good work

Mmmm, plastic extractors

And sitting on top of the supercharger is one of my exhaust flanges (cut out using an angle grinder, hacksaw, drill and file )

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Does it work though?

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Only very briefly

I was having trouble transferring my bent welding rod patterns to pipe shapes, and this method was suggested to me - 40mm PVC pipes are within a mm of the 1 5/8" exhaust pipe and much easier to bend (using a gentle application of the oxy torch).

I'm still trying to perfect my sand-bending technique, it works for all but the tighest bends which tend to crimp on the inside of the bend . Might end up using a combination of sand-bending and a few mandrel-bent sections welded in to account for the really tight bends.

The problem is the lack of space I have to work with. Most commercially available extractors hit the supercharger so I have to get all the pipes heading to the back of the engine bay pretty quickly, then use a few fairly sharp bends to be able to have equal length primary pipes. I can't reduce the length of the primaries anymore, its already down to 550mm (which is the minimum needed to get from cylinder one's exhaust port to where the collector has to sit).

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

progressing really well Dave.
The SC mount looks strong enough.
with the idler pully bracket, this needs to be gutsy as well.
If you can make it so you can shim adjust the alignment, it may save
you some angst in the future. And save on belt replacements.

Re the header plate to the cylinder head.
Thats if If you have not already allowed for this:
Cut this undersize at the lower portion so that you can hand work it to
the angle of the port. good gains to be made here.

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks for the tip - I was surprised when I cross-sectioned an old head that the exhaust ports are actually angled downwards slightly.

I'm making the header flange and the first 3" or so of each primary pipe as an individual section, to get a good transition from the squarish port shape to the round pipe. I'll be fitting each individual flange and its associated bit of pipe to its port and then matching them before the rest of the primary pipe will be welded onto this initial section.
Its getting there slowly. I've now got a lot of stuff half finished .

I hope to have the engine bay stuff pretty much finished and paint the engine bay / inside the car / underneath the car before this summer is over.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Good stuff mate - keep it up
BTW is the bodywork finished?

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Classic Auto Fabrications:
http://www.ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=31659

http://www.lescollinsracing.com/

Bodywork is near enough to finished - only things left are fix the rust in the piece of the radiator support panel that runs under the radiator (which I've been leaving till I've finalised my custom radius rod brackets in case I need to modify how they mount to the radiator support panel), the windscreen openings need finishing off (need to make and weld on some of the little "pins" that hold the clips that hold the windscreen chrome surround on) and maybe a few other very minor things. Only a few nights work really.

Rust in all panels is finished, but I still need to fit them to the shell, straighten it up perfectly and get the panel gaps right, but I'll leave that till I've finished the major mechanical modifications in case I dent, scratch or otherwise damage the body while fitting heavy stuff and welding around it.

And here's tonight's effort - the first flange for the headers. The flange plate is hand-made (angle grinder, drill, file and die grinder) and the pipe was roughly shped, fitted inside the flange, heated up nice and red with the oxy, then hammered into shape so I get a nice, smooth transition from the squarish port to the round exhaust pipe. Still have to weld up inside the flange, then braze the other side to fill the little gaps and make it nice and strong, but I'm really pleased with how it turned out Around 2.5 hours work (mostly filing), so that'll be 10 hours work just to get the flange bits made

This section of the primary pipe is perfectly fitted to the shape of the individual port, and exits the head at the same angle as the port (ie slightly "downhill") as per Baz's recomendation.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

After a day of filing, welding, filing, welding and then filing a bit more - all the flanges for the extractors are finished And even if I do say so myself, they turned out really neat. The pipe was flared out to give just about a perfect fit on the exhaust ports Its a bit hard to see in the pics, but the pipe transitions from the rectangular port shape to the round pipe over the first inch or so of the pipe.

All that's left to do is buy some brazing rods and fill between the pipe and the flange on the outside where there are a few little gaps - should make it look neater and strengthen it up as well.

Lots of holes




After lots of filing





Roughly shape pipe to fit





Tack pipe in place, use oxy to get it red hot and hammer to shape, then weld all round.





All done





And the primary-to-seconday pipe junction - took a bit of fiddling to get the 1 5/8" primaries cut at the right angle and in the right position to get a perfect transition to the 1 3/4" secondary pipes.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

hahaha, you're insane, but amazing effort and time put in, looks great

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

Yep - in hindsight if I'd just thrown an SR20 in it, I'd probably be driving it round by now

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

Nice work dave, its definately the long way round but at least its done exactly the way you want! keep chugging away and it'll be done before you know it, but i reckon half the fun is doing it all yourself anyway

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LAGWAGON gracefully retired... LAG 510 - the next generation

Top work dave progressing really well for the amount of work thats been put into it

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120Y 4DOOR SEDAN SR20DE WITH ITB'S

http://datsun1200.com/modules/newbb/vie ... post494892