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CA18 Monsta Guide
http://ozdat.com.au/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5655		 Page 16 of 17
Author:  JFAllen [ Fri Dec 21, 2012 6:13 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Old tune was 8200RPM. The point at which the T2-0.64 turbine housing started to restrict activities too much. The GT2876R with a 20PSi WG spring would only hold 20PSi to 7000RPM. Boost then fell steadily to 18PSi by 8200RPM. With a 0.86 back end I'd have netted 270-280RWkW (the realistic limit of a GT2876R.)

My block is built like a brick sh*t-house and will take abuse at 8500RPM. It's only to be used for circuit racing, so it's not going to have an easy life. New turbo (Tomei ARMS M8270) will be tuned to 25PSi @ 8500RPM burning AVGAS.

On a side note, I pulled my old turbo off the other day and, true to the tails of old the exhaust runners were all clean and the turbine wheel looked brand new. The heavily leaded nature of AVGAS means that there are no carbon deposits anywhere in the engine. Close to the turbo the lead in the exhaust gas stays molten and are cleaned by Bromine compounds. Further down the exhaust lead deposits form as it cools.
Author:  d [ Sat Dec 22, 2012 12:11 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Umm lead.... gotta love lead in engines :)
Whats done to the head JF? I hear these engines are under-exhaused and could do with some extra porting there while the inlets have plenty of volume already. One way is to have more lift and duration on the exhaust side to spool up turbos well especially bigger ones but I would prefer a bit more volume on the exxy side and have more lift and duration on the inlet.
What so good about your bottom ;) Im thinking of increasing the rod stroke ratio on my cadet.
Author:  JFAllen [ Sat Dec 22, 2012 9:45 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
I'll keep running AVGAS to they ban it, then move to E85. It just leave the engine so clean.

The corner stone to the bottom end is Pauter X-Beam rods. Like most after market rods for a CA18DET they use 1/2" ARP rod bolts instead of the factory 3/8". After kicking a rod as a result of a snapped rod bolt at 8,000RPM, that's nice insurance for the highest stressed component in the engine. After doing my research I came to the conclusion that you can't go wrong with Pauters. They're made to order (as in you make an order then you have to wait in line until they're made.) After holding them in my hands and having held Eagles and SPOOLS as well there is no doubt in my mind that they are a far superior product. Like Pauer like Crower, Manley and Arrow are premium products. The fit and finish of the Pauters is classy to say the least, Eagles and SPOOLS look and feel cheap by comparison. Darren Lewis who put my block together said he'd never seen rods like them before (in a good way, you'll also note he's using my engine to promote his work;).)

Next the them all the regular work, acid bath, checking for core shift (there was none,) line bore crank, bored 1mm, decked, full rotating assembly balance, new welsh plugs, crank polish, oil restrictor, new oil pump.

The head's been ported extensively. Still is a true 8-port. The stub manifold have been matched ported and the dividing bridge has been sharpened up. Trust me when I say it looks a tread. Of course the butterflies have been removed and the shaft holes plugged up.

On the exhaust side the ports have been opened out a noticeable amount. Had a look at my head next to a stock one and was amazed at how much larger they were. I run the Tomei 270deg hydraulic Procams with Tomei cam gears, a multi-angle valve job and Heavy duty valve springs. For cost reasons the stock lifters and valve retainers were retained as a change in this area would have put the cost over that of ditching the CA18DET and converting a Toyota BEAMS 2.0L 3SGE for turbo use. (This will probably happen some day anyway.) For my power, boost, rev targets the Hydraulics are fine and I've had no issues. New oil every outing at the track means that it gets new oil after every 100 minutes of running. To say it comes out clean is an understatement (I keep it and use it in my 1966 corona.)

Along with an ORC twinplate clutch, 800cc injectors, 3" straight through side pipe; it puts a shiver down your spine when you're strapped in amongst the cage and it's on song.

I'll be posing the results of the Tomei ARMS M8270 once it's tuned as to my knowledge I'm the first person to use on on a CA18DET.
JA
Author:  d [ Mon Dec 24, 2012 11:23 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Sounds like you will never have to go to a beams toyota donk especially for the size and weight the CA should trump the S motor. I do know the CA20S block can actually be bored from 84.5mm to 86.5mm according to a racer in NSW who had the green hulk S12 he campaigned for quite sometime using modded mitsu 4g63 rods. But changing rods to those crappy maxspeeding rods for 215 extra is like going backwards in your case.

if you someone really wanted an extra big capacity ca20 some Darton sleeves or similar in 87mm one up from these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Darton-Dry-Slee ... 66&vxp=mtr
using +1mm sr20det or stock pistons should be fine for 1988cc

The turbo is a bargain compared to a new smaller disco pott
Author:  JFAllen [ Tue Dec 25, 2012 8:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
The ARMS turbo's appear to be good value (that's why I bought one,) but I'll be holding final judgement until the tune is complete.

The CA18DET is smaller and lighter than a BEAMS 3SGE, but larger and heaver than a Stroked 1.9L 4AGE (available from New Zealand, very nice and also a serious consideration should the CA18 fail.)

Don't get me wrong I like the CA (that's why I've kept mine,) it's flaws give it character and I know I've probably got the nicest one in SA. I'd have not spent the cash on it if I didn't think it would achieve my end goals. But the inescapable truth is that the design is old and flawed. Blocks and heads are old and warn. It's for this same reason I'll not consider the FJ20ET which is arguably Nissan's best and strongest 4-Cylinder.

The CA18 has a great note (especially above 6,000RPM,) it's rev happy and when treated correctly during the build phase, can be constructed to give great performance.
Author:  d [ Mon Jan 07, 2013 6:36 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Just nit picking really as both engines discussed are lighter than original celica donk
but since weighing Ca16de,ca18de and ca20e blocks in many guises the 4age block
is way more stoutly built with a greater overengineered amount of webbing & iron skirt.
Heads are on par but the blocks for CA are lighter as they also have no mains skirt.
eg. fully dressed ca18de is supposedly 118kg vs 4age 124kg

CA18DET 128kg inc. turbo manifold and turbo.

4AGE 20 Valve 1.6 litre & T-50 = 155 kg
Complete as fitted to car (less exhaust manifold)
T-50 5 speed 29 kg as fitted to RWD

The stroker 4age would be heavier again due to material used on stroker crank
same as the heavier billet ca8de stroker cranks however the 4age stroker uses
23mm tall pistons so that on the ca20det stroker makes for good long rods.

Allen you went back to factory cast iron manifold?
Author:  JFAllen [ Thu Jan 10, 2013 1:11 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
No... Unfortunatly the ARMS M8270 fouls the CA18DET stock manifold. I've had a custom low mount built by Chris Kerby (Rex Kelway for those who know.) He's done most of the fabrication on the car and built the cage.

Expect the tune to happen in April as I'm away until then. Will see how it performs on AVGAS if I'm happy will call it a day (Smells so good :D, but is so bad for you :(.) E85 is very tempting and all I'd need is new injectors and fuel lines. Everything else is up to standard. Realistically expecting 310->330RWkW though the 59mm compressor will flow more. I don't want to be running more than 25PSi.

JA
Author:  d [ Mon Jan 21, 2013 4:50 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
How about using this adaptor would it fit?

http://www.flipsidecustoms.com/?p=213

[ img ]
Author:  datsun_sp310 [ Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:47 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Had the drift car dyno'd today, CA18DET 180sx.
Engine is a fresh rebuild which is completely standard other than forged piston(just in case). Head is a standard 4 port Euro spec with just some port matching. Used a CA18DET exhaust cam on the inlet side, R34 airflow meter, GTR injectors, computer received an updated nistune and running a HKS 25/30 turbo. The car made 209rwkw on 14psi. Was told it will make a little more once it has been run in some more.
Will upload dyno print out on the weekend
Author:  datsun_sp310 [ Fri Feb 22, 2013 12:49 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
oops, for some reason it double posted me.
Author:  AndyM [ Sun Mar 03, 2013 9:26 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Hi guys I was just wondering has any of you used a CA18 gearbox from a S13 on any of your builds?
Thanks
Author:  d [ Fri Mar 15, 2013 12:43 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
datsun_sp310 wrote:
Had the drift car dyno'd today, CA18DET 180sx.
Engine is a fresh rebuild which is completely standard other than forged piston(just in case). Head is a standard 4 port Euro spec with just some port matching. Used a CA18DET exhaust cam on the inlet side, R34 airflow meter, GTR injectors, computer received an updated nistune and running a HKS 25/30 turbo. The car made 209rwkw on 14psi. Was told it will make a little more once it has been run in some more.
Will upload dyno print out on the weekend
Sounds really good, congrats!

I also have a 4 port head and 272 hks cams but undecided on the turbo. I have a gt2860RS ready but will see how I go as I would like to run without an airflow meter.
Quote:
GT2530 is ever so slightly bigger than a GT2860RS (Spud) the turbine wheel specs are the same but the compressor has a 0.5mm (47.7 Vs' 47.2) bigger inducer and a 0.1mm (60.1 Vs' 60.0) bigger exducer.
Author:  sled510 [ Tue May 27, 2014 1:49 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Anyone got some OE piston rings handy?

Curious to know what markings are on them
Author:  Addog01 [ Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:48 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
Hi there can anyone help me please with the best type of external coil packs to use?
Could you possibly give me a brand and type, I can see they get mounted just behind and above the motor.
Thanks heaps
Author:  JFAllen [ Sun Oct 12, 2014 8:46 am ]
Post subject:  Re: CA18 Monsta Guide
These days GM LS1/2/3 external coils are the go. Cheap from wreckers.
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