Hey everyone, the other night i was out goin to a mates place. I've only been there twice before and since it was night, his driveway came up on me pretty quick, being on a corner on a dirt road and all.

For some reason (i know better) i've jumped on the brakes and the arse end has drifted to the left to the point i was travelling 90degrees to the road around a gravel corner. If the road'd been slightly wider, it would've been right.

Then i heard a massive thud...I've hit a tree stump markin my mates driveway. Its about 2.5 foot across and was about the height of my 200B badge on the rear quarter. I hit it doin about 30-40km/h sideways. Launched it about 10m down the road, and its in turn hit a wheelie bin and sent it flying down the road

Now until i can get a picture i'll have to rely on my description. Its crushed the rear quarter right at the back, flat and cracked the tail light chrome strip.

Now what would be the best way to remove the damage. I've down a backyard job and straightened it out a little, but i'm wondering should I

1) take it to a panel beater to get it beaten out (anyone know of any good datto friendly panel beaters on the sunshine coast)

or

2) aquire another rear quarter section and get the whole area replaced.

The area was previously reveresed into at a carpark and the barstard didn't leave their details so I kill 2 birds with one stone. I'll hopefully have pics of the damage up tomorrow.

Cheers

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78' 200B. 5 speed, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, 32/36 weber, 14" mags, Elec ign, Redlands motor. Slowly Pulling parts off while still driving around. Tree unfortunately signed its death cert.

Recommended Traders: Datsport

ummm it is a 200b mate

for the cost of a panel beaters you could just go and grab another one

bog is your buddy for this job

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

have a go at doin it yourself i reckon, unless you want it to be top quality again. but give it a go, you can only make it look better.

I ain't gonna bog it! Well, i want to avoid it as my car has like no bog in it so far. It will have small amounts to fix surface imperfections, but otherwise i wanna keep it as bog free as possible. I've had a bash at it already with a hammer, thats how the panel is sorted uncrushed

Thought about gettin another 200B. But I'm trying to avoid that path.

The rear moulded bit around the light was crushed flat, hence all the paint missing. So i spose i could get into it. Whats the best way? just blocks of wood, a hammer and alotta free time?

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78' 200B. 5 speed, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, 32/36 weber, 14" mags, Elec ign, Redlands motor. Slowly Pulling parts off while still driving around. Tree unfortunately signed its death cert.

Recommended Traders: Datsport

Get a dolly set from your local auto shop. and have a go. No matter how much time you have you will have to use a bit of filler. If you want it to be straight again that is.

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1928 Model A CC Pickup

Timber is good because you can shape it to get nice curves, but make sure you get something nice and strong. Unless you are a master craftsman there is really no option other than getting it as straight as possible and then using bog - bog is really only bad when people use it as construction material (IMHO anyway). I found (being an amateur) when you are sanding back it helps to get a long piece of pine and use it as your sanding block, then you can use the length of it to guide you when you are trying to keep the lines of the panel. The rounded bits I just have to take my time on. Remember that when you put paint on it any imperfections will stick out like dogs balls, so get it as good as you can first.

try not to get too carried away with the hammer too. every hammer blow stretches the metal just a little, so if you're not careful you might end up with enough metal to make two 1/4 panels.

I don't mind using abit of bog for just touching it up and making it straight but i don't wanna be plastering it on.

I noticed the thing about imperfections sticking out...My new bonnet which is still is primer Had a few spots that needed bog to cover the patchs that were welded in. OMG you can see where i sanded too much or not enough.

With bog how critical is the mixture of bog and hardener? Am i going to run into problems if theres too much/too little hardener. I'm trying to go by the instuctions on the box, but my bog job colour looks different to someone else whos bogging there 240K. Maybe theres is wrong?

Thanks for the replys guys. Once i get the bluey out i'll get the 200B in and try it myself. Seems like good practice

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78' 200B. 5 speed, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, 32/36 weber, 14" mags, Elec ign, Redlands motor. Slowly Pulling parts off while still driving around. Tree unfortunately signed its death cert.

Recommended Traders: Datsport

Try using an oxy to shrink areas that have been badly stretched.

With the bog, if you use too much hardener it seems to shrink more as it cures.

P.S.
Spray putty is your friend

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1973 Datsun 610SSS long term resto-mod project
1983 SII Datsun/Nissan 910 short term daily driver/fun resto-mod project

Spray putty? what the, i've never seen that before? where can i get some?

Cheers
Mick

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78' 200B. 5 speed, extractors, 2 1/2" exhaust, 32/36 weber, 14" mags, Elec ign, Redlands motor. Slowly Pulling parts off while still driving around. Tree unfortunately signed its death cert.

Recommended Traders: Datsport

Spray putty is found at any good Panel/paint shop.

It really is only thick primer.

Good for covering up tiny scratches.

Softer and easier to sand than bog.

Spray it on, let it dry, and then sand everything smooth again.

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1970 P510 SSS sedan
1971 P510 wagon + spare shell
197? 180B SSS Coupe
1981 910 SSS with Z18et, Leather interior

except that primer can be applied to bare metal, and can be painted over with top coat. Spray putty cannot be used in either of those ways. The area must be primed before and after spray putty is used. It is what it says it is - putty that is sprayed on. Useful for minor imperfections - in this case after you have beaten, bogged and primed this repair. It's the perfect stuff for the join lines between bog and existing paintwork, and for filling any little blemishes in the bog work - eg if there's a small air pocket exposed while sanding the bog.

It's what would be used most times on a repair like if someone 'keyed" your car. Or in a quick respray, to fill stonechips for example. It would probably be usefel for those minor imperfections in your bonnet.

Hi-Fill or One-step primer is really only thick primer, and is useful for final prep over repairs before painting. It can fill in things like sanding marks from coarse paper used on repairs.