Hi All,

A mate of mine with a S13 SR20DET in his 1600 is having a few issues with it starting.

* Hard if not impossible to start
* Sometimes it will start with the throttle held open
* It was working up until recently
* There have been no major changes that should have caused this issue

We have checked the following:
* Spark is there
* Injectors are firing

Thoughts:
* FPR could be a bit funky, there is a huge amount of flow coming back. I was thinking that it might be stuck open (Still the original one)
* AFM is a Z32, seems OK has been cleaned..
* For me it seems list it's not getting enough fuel (Pumps are working fine)
* Next is to check fuel flow however I dont have a flow tester.

Any ideas?

Trent

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

Hi Trent,
Check the IAC. Idle air control valve.
cheers

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Thanks Baz we can check it out. I forgot about that component!

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

Gday Guys,

I'm Dave the sad... oh so very sad / frustrated owner of the not so mean 16.

I'm wondering if there is a way to test the iacv without removing the inlet manifold?(it looks like thats the
only way i can remove it??)

This week I added a fuel pressure gauge to the inlet line. It's reading approx 52psi on priming.
drops straight back down to 20 psi or below after priming.

Tonight I was able start the car with the throttle open. It was somewhat responsive when opening and closing the throttle
(although you can tell it's not running right, with a few mis fires and pops)
I had it running for about 4-5 minutes (rocker cover was getting hot) (temp gauge was reading approx 61degrees)

The turbo sounds like it's whistling abit more than i remember it doing (when it was running nice and idling by itself)
and the boost gauge is reading -10 (used to read -20 on idle)
Motor stopped almost straight away when i didn't keep the throttle open

the garage was pretty smokey and very very fumey (sting your eyes petrol? fumey)

Wasn't able to get the car to start again...

I rigged up an old bosch efi pump to a jerry can to see if there was anything different.
(no change to fuel pressure straight to approx 52 psi when running and straight back down to approx 20 psi when stopped)

I was not able to get the car to start, even with the throttle open

Thank you very much for taking the time to read the post.
a huge mega massive thank you to Trent for all your time

If there is anything i can check or do before trying to remove and clean the iac(as that looks like a fun job)
I was thinking of buying a turbosmart 800 fpr and seeing if this changes anything.

Thanks again for your reading and thanks for any advice you can offer.

Cheers
Dave

I'm am probably wrong, but I thought the FPR had to go in the return line?

Hey Pugdat,

we checked that, lines are correct.

I'm leaning towards FPR on this one however will need a gauge to check.

You should take off the IAC and clean it anyway Dave

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

For some strange reason I never solved (sold the car) I had an s13 180. Some times it wouldn't start or idle and found if I covered the intake ( pod filter removed) with a pice a cardboard with a 4mm hole in it it would start then once warm take the cardboard away and it would be fine. Maybe give that a try and see what happens. Does anyone know what causes this?

Sounds like a vacuum leak too. Although I would assume that could be an IACV too.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Will it idle at all. Does it die ,when given some rev's then drop to 500rpm approx then die or occasionally pick back up ???? Does it have a blow off valve plumbed in . IACV can be cleaned with carby cleaner , but needs to be running to blow all this stuff out . TPS has this been checked . Doubt if its the IACV or AFM if you say it has been cleaned . Possible vacuum line so check all , make sure clamps are tight . I've been down similar track to you . Idle on first start up and would idle all day if you didn't touch throttle. give it some rev's and drop to 500rpm approx then die or occasionally pick up . Had TPS checked and double checked --cleaned IACV eventually replacing it . Cleaned and replace AFM and cabling still do improvement . Eventually got fed up as read every forum i could find --spoke and asked all the experts , nobody except one could find a solution . I wanted it to run without blow off valve , but last resort was told to put blow off valve in line - Bloody car runs like a charm now --couldn't be better .
wnw-244

Thanks guys,

I'm going to try my luck with a new FPR, I've also ordered an intake manifold gasket and will clean the idle control valve
once that arrives...

it started and idled by itself yesterday with the old bosch pump, but it only did it once and then wouldn't start after that

although this has been pain... I've learnt a fair bit...
I'll keep you posted with further developments

Cheers
Dave

Gday Guys,

Just wanted to do a quick update. I ordered a new fuel pressure regulator and a exhaust manifold gasket(just incase i need to get to the ivac.

I was about to start swapping the FPR, but thought i'd just see what happened when I turn the key.

Magical fairies must have worked on my car when i was sleeping, because it started and ran perfectly.
So after shedding a little tear, then doing a dance... I swapped the FPR over...

it started and ran fine, took it for a slow drive down the end of the street..
runs fine, it's been a week now, and it's still running fine...

May have been a FPR going bad?? i'm not sure??
It's booked into the auto elecs next week and fingers crossed it gets there