Hi all here some pictures of my conversion halfway through, It's a three door at the moment. I have to turn the car around to have room to work in my cave so I snapped pics while it was out in daylight.
So far I have welded it up then laid up epoxy resin and fibreglass cloth over the welds and then filled it with epoxy filler and roughly shaped it (80 grit) and sealed it up with a coat of highfill with a thin coat of black so I can get a good look at it. After I get the other side to the same stage. I will finish the fairing. I'm using these materials because of it superior adhesion and flexibility over poly filler and it what I work with in my trade ( leftovers are cheap).

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Life is incomplete without a datto !

Came up good bro. I like how you went to the effort of actually extending the length of the front door, and window frame. I assume you will try and source a 2 door window, or get one made?

It did come up well it looks like a genuine one

I'm going to make a window frame out of the original window frame from the back door plus the other left over bits of frame from the other doors used. I'm going to fit lexan (acrylic plastic) windows to the side a back. The side windows will be fixed in place with just a sliding hatch in the driver's side window.
Thank for feedback , Here some more Pics of doors going together and the pillar moved , the door sill had rusted out under the old pillar position and had to be replaced not the best surprise when I unstitched the pillar from it original position. Making the bit between the pillar and new panel (door jam ?) was the most challenging bit so far.

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Life is incomplete without a datto !

Good job there! Keen to see some more progress

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Thank You, all interest and comments are greatly appreciated as I'm building on my own with the support of the boss lady ( don't forget her !!! could be death )
I'm very keen on progress . but some times that four letter "W" word gets in the road. I have been having nightmares about being stuck with a three door datto. I've made a bit of time and I should be able to work on it about ten days in the coming fortnight and hopefully that should see the RH side in the same state as left. It's slow making it up and leaning as I go for me anyway but I will get there. Hopefully the detailed drawings I did as I built the first side will speed things up a bit . I've also been making mould of bits as I go, I plan to make mould of the whole car except the roof. So when my boys bend it the repair process will be a bit easier and I won't cry and scream too much.
Lunch is over, back to it . Here's some pics of bits for the build.

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Life is incomplete without a datto !

Well done! My hat comes off to you.
Brings back memories of my brown fj20 2dr conversion but i did it the lazy way and imported the panels required.
Theres a few custom projects getting around currently like this and its good to see.
Keep up the good work.

atmo FJ! winning!

keep the pics coming...

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.

The way things are going for 2 door 510s, this will be the only way to own one, congrats!

The only thing I would suggest is you use sliding lexan racing windows similar in design
as applied to Landrover or VW Kombi, heaps of other cars, buses & trucks for eons.

This way no more water and crap storing into the doors.

I used Landrover style gutters like these for my old 2 door sedan b10
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/LRsideWindow.htm
http://www.expeditionlandrover.info/GRd ... tionRM.jpg
vw sample
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/dic ... window.jpg

however I wish I saw these earlier!
http://www.lexan-windows.com/catalogsea ... ni+sliding

Have got some more done, as normal my plan's for ten days without having to work did not work out. To day I got the inner guard reshaped to match up to the flare, next is cutting the skin of the old back door and cutting the pieces of sheet metal to join the skin to the pillar and welding all into place. I took some pictures sunday the work on the weekend was a bit slow as the big race coursed quite a few stoppages to my work as well as the racing ( could not believe they let work on the cars ) .
thanks d for the window Idea's I had a quick look but I will check it out better when I get to that bit , looks like a good way to go.
Here's some picture from where I was up to sunday night. I will get some more up to date ones when I remember to get new batteries for the camera. Sorry about the poor quality camera is average with good batteries nevermind flat ones.

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Life is incomplete without a datto !

Big fan of this build!

Had a break from body work today and got the intake manifold started.
If anyone has idea's on overall length for manifold plus itb's I would like to hear them at the moment I'm planning to make it the same length as the runner (tube bits) on the original manifold which should give me enough room to fit a airbox, that I'm going to custom build to suit. It would be possible to make it a bit shorter than I am planning, but I was under the impression longer is better ? Any ideas / theories much appreciated .
Next I am going to build a jig to hold it in place for tig welding, Which is getting done by pro's at bairnsdale welding. Not a job for a novice like me.

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Life is incomplete without a datto !

Take a squiz at Mark Lanyard's inlet manifold for the L series
He is also called Munyard on performance forums.

The closer the butterfly to the inlets decreases reversion pulses
making tuning and air flow much smoother and progressive.
Then you can adjust to your needs using longer velocity stacks/trumpets

They are a work of art.

Armed with with that info I have done a bit more reading and looking at the other EFI hardware products ( especially the EFI HW sr20 itb's that bolt straight to the head ) make me think the dcoe style ITB's are not the best choice, but as I picked them up pretty cheap and being able to swap between them and webers style carbs on the same manifold may have some advantages. (I know this should not come into it) But I do like the DCOE look on the old FJ20. So I will make the manifold as short as possible. I like the idea of having room inside the airbox to adjust the length of the velocity stacks. So once again the more knowledgeable members of OZdat have helped the less knowledgeable (to put it nicely) , Thank you Bozo510 .
That L motor raises the bar on a quality finish. OOO AR

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Life is incomplete without a datto !