Hey guys,

I have been spending some time trying to figure out just how viable the idea is of Putting a 13B Turbo rotary engine in a street going 1600 sedan. So for all the mods and junk that I will have to get done, Should come out of it all quite happily. There is no rush for me so, 9i will take my time and get it done right.

Like i mentioned, It will be a road going car and, if all is sweet, a daily driver. I am not looking for monster HP or the loud BRAP of a rotar at all. It will be, for the most part, a quiet, neat little resto' that might surprise the odd folk or two (^_^)

I will be taking ownership of the car in the near future and, the body work and the mounting of the engine will begin Get everything BASHED into shape for the engine and drive line before anything gets done body wise...

The Discs and suspension upgrades are all quite straight forward with these cars which is a breath of fresh air Coming from fixing up a '72 808... Not much on that was straight forward at all.

Still sorting out the colour scheme and i want to try to find one of those websites where you can colour test ideas... haven't had much luck so far with that. Not THAT important at this stage anyway

I have the plates for the car already and i have named her as well, Her name is, Rei (pronounced, Ray).

I dont have much to show at this stage but, i will share the odd pic or two

Anyone have any pointers or tips, please, share.

Thanks.

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The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

I did this conversion in my old sedan and it is fairly straight forward if you or someone you know can weld. Use the maddat kit, it will save you a heap of **** around. You will need to notch the top of the tunnel for clutch fork clearance. I used a datsport tunnel cover as u will need to chop the tunnel where the shifter comes thru, fairly simple install, just cut until box fits then weld cover over the top. The biggest pain in the arse is the exhaust being on the drivers side, theres not alot of room between the steering box and the gearbox but i think we used 2 1/2 inch then went to 3. Any wiring on this side should be moved as i melted mine due to the heat of the dump pipe.

It was a real nice car to drive and being a turbo rota not very noisy. Any other questions just hit me up.

really appreciate the tips mate. I have been eying off a few of the bits and pieces on both of those sights. Some very coo stuff to help a brother out for sure

My next goal is to get rid of the hilux under the house and bring home the datto.

Then i can start tinkering

You are sure to hear from me mate.

Thanks again,

REI600

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The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

Im fabricating many things to sus mine into my sunny wagon, i suggest you grab an ex-4 cross member and front mount it then you got more space for turbo/dump pipe

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

Rx4*

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

The maddat kit is a weld in cross member that front mounts the engine using a 12A timing cover. Still utilises the original cross member which is reversed and scolloped out for sump clearance. Still tight as an asian gash gettin ur pipe thru the hole!

I have been told that simply getting the "front mount" rotary engine x-member and fabbing up a new mount and cross member lets you modify next to nothing within the existing engine bay. That info came from someone who i approached about prices and availability of a conversion kit like the ones sold by maddat. I will see how i go as to what i need to do. I know the kits are there and i know that buying it will have pros and cons.

This Gent actually used to assist the builds on the original Rally Dazdas back in the day (rotary powered 1600s).

I have always been told that the main issues folks face when fitting this gear into a 1600 is the clearance of the exhaust setup and the room for the radiator, intercooler and oil cooler at the front of the car. These are largely things i cannot predict so, decide what i am going to do RE: mounts and go from there with the fit. Dummy the whole lot and start fabbing brackets to suit <-- that is the most common solution.

No progress at this stage. Still trying to get rid of the Hilux. It'll be on the scrappers door step soon enough.

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The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

**** those maddat fitting kits if ur as broke as i am and doing a 13bt conversion :')

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

The actuall engine cross member part of the maddat kit is relatively easy to fab yourself. All it is is 2 pieces of 90 degree angle that are welded to the rails and then some thick walled square tube between that welded to the pieces of angle. The hardest part would be geting the angles correct for the brackets that the engine mounts too. I had mine soft mounted originally but the engine flexed like crazy so i got some solid steel mounts spun up and she was sweet after that.

@RE1600 I have not been on here that much as busy with other projects. My old members ride thread on here has some info regarding mounting a 13b into a 1600. Depending on how far you want to go, there is a fair amount of work involved and as you already have said room for the oil cooler and radiator which then brings alot more heat in front and around the radiator. Depending on what turbo you want to run, if standard turbo and you take off the power steering pump and ac compressor you can angle the engine to one side slightly to clear the orignal turbo and manifold. As I am running ac and powersteering, my bay is very tight and I had to high mount my turbo which involves more work and also having the ac condensor and intercooler in front of the radiator keeps the radiator on its toes. Good luck

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My build-
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 89#p266789

So, the most recent hurdle to overcome prior to spending all my dollars is the issue of front mounting the 13b-REW engine. Standard, they have some dicky cradle thing that is going to be near on impossible for me to adapt to the 1600 engine bay... Have to either go with an older engine and adapt everything inside to suit the FDs setup OR, adapt the front cover of the 13b to suit the older, front cover engine mounts...

EGH...............

Adapting the FDs setup would HAVE to be the cheaper way top travel... surely......

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The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

Easiest and cheapest way is to get the front cover off a 12a and swap that over. Thats what all the guys who mount late model engines in there RXs do. Depending on what computer you want to run you will most likely need to run the CAS off a series 4/5. Ask around on Ausrotary lot of knowledgeable guys there and also nuts as well

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My build-
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 89#p266789

Hey RX510,

I have done exactly that already. I have found a thread from 2009 (latest post) and there was a whole lot of head scratching going on... I did read a little bit about the CAS issue. I will more than likely be running a Microtech. best bang for my buck.

I hope there is a common conversion idea now... Last i read had something to do with the old 12a cover and a lot of fabrication... See how we go

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The Gene Pool Needs More Chlorine.

I am running a microtech , when I fitted mine and even now in Perth most rotary tuners here specialize in these. But if I had the money and more tuning options I would of looked into something else. I think most people will tell you the microtech is a very limited computer. Also im not sure if the latest ones are different, but mine wont run the original oil metering pump, I had to fit a mechanical omp off a series 4 13b. There was a guy from perth on ausrotary who made a small computer to run the series 5 and later? omp with a microtech not sure if he still does...

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My build-
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 89#p266789

Use either a 12a or 12a turbo front cover as stated above. If u use the non turbo one u will have to tap an oil drain into it. Front mounting it is the easiest way to fit em. The 13brew shouldnt be a problem just dice the twin turb setup and put a to4z or something similar. If your not familiar with rotas get a shop to do the cover swap for u it not a simple as it sounds. Dont use an old engine (rx4 era) theyre sh*t when boosted.