hows the brakes feel with the 200b brakes and booster?,i have the same setup in mine but havent tested yet..
i can see you have done the same thing to the spacer behind booster(but i removed the half inch from booster side)
what did u do at the pedal with the extra length on the push rod ?

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68 510 - soon to be restored into a replica 68sss
69 510 - current build - L20b turbo
91 GT turbo legacy
GET THAT DATSUN DIFFERENCE!

Loving the build! Keep the pics coming!

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Datsun 1600 1971

the brakes are a huge improvement over the standard brakes, but i havent really tested them to the fullest as i never had the car regoed with these brakes. only an occasional run around the block(quiet back streets)

the standard master cyl was frozen solid so i put this booster and master on so i could at least start the car and drive it.

as for shortening the spacer i havent shortened it, did you do it to gain a bit of space between the strut tower and the booster??

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

cut out all the rust from the firewall drain and put tw cuts in the panel above it so i could peel it back and get a bit of access.

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

started to shape a bit of a replacement drain

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

after a bit more work i got it to fit alright and welded it in

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

then i closed up the panel again after i welded the drain in

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

welded the cover back on, i shortened the cover a lot so the whole drain is a lot more open than before so no crap can get stuck in there now.

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

and i just hit it with a bit of etch primer, ive got to strip and prep the whole engine bay for paint now.

you can also notice in thi pic the gap at the bottom now, from factory this slot is so restrictive and catches leaves and debris.

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

bit of work with the hammer and dolly and the valance is pretty much straitend out, this pic is bare metal just a bit of etch prime, ill have another close look at it but i dont think it needs any filler ill just paint strip the whole thing prime, hi build and block it.

i really dont want to weld this back on i really want to bolt it, at this stage i just have holes to bolt it back on, the lower lip ill probably use some black self tappers maybe with speed nuts on the panel behind to locate the screws, i dont think the screws will be noticeable as the lower lip and weld on tabs on the valance are painted black aswell

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

I had to shorten the spacer 13mm to fit the 200b booster in, i have 2mm between the hose connection and tower.

I normally bolt the front stone trays to all the 1200 and 1600's i restore.then weld the nuts on the inside for easy fitment.Then as you said some tec screws at bottom

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68 510 - soon to be restored into a replica 68sss
69 510 - current build - L20b turbo
91 GT turbo legacy
GET THAT DATSUN DIFFERENCE!

yeah it seems like a pretty silly idea from the factory to weld this panel on, much better to have this panel easily removed for service.

the 200b booster is definately close to the strut tower i just got a vacum hose the right shape to juuust fit

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

got my bottom end back from balancing pistons, rods, crank,flywheel, clutch all done. and you can see here the piston tops have been milled. they still hve a small valve relief in them its only 1cc.





polished up the crank and i had a new pilot bush, so removed the old one and replaced it.

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

need a bit of advice about my compression ratio, i was aiming for 11-1 minimum to work with my 76 deg cam,
its an isky z-273 cam
in and ex .595 valve lift
in and ex 306 deg duration
109 lobe centres

i asked for 2.3mm to be milled off the pistons and that should have left me with a deck clearance of .9mm and a comp ratio of about 11.1-1 measured the deck clearance yesterday and ive got a deck clearance of 1.15mm and a comp ratio of about 10.6 to 10.7-1 do you think that will be a little underdone to work with my cam???

im not sure if he milled to much off or it was because i had the rods closed and honed after i made my first measurements, i know this would have changed the deck height but he said it would be a couple of thou but .25mm is a fair bit, i wasnt expecting. any way.

i still have to check piston to valve clearance but im not expecting to have to flycut as the psitons are down the bore 1.15mm and the head has had f$%k all taken off it( but if my comp ratio is to low ill probably have to skim the head again).

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

done a bit more work, the radius rod mount had a bit of damage, so i had to hammer it back out strait again.

before




and after

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.