Yesterday afternoon I got some jets I ordered.
The ones baz mentioned
Mains 150
Airs 155
Idles 50f6
Tubes f9
It was pretty late when I got home so I didn't install the idle jets as I didn't have time to retune the idle mixtures so I just put the mains, airs and tubes in.

Went for one quick test, engine now reving out and pulling nicely, I wasn't too hard on it but.

Hopefully this arfternoon I'll have a chance to put the 50f6 idles in and retune the idle mixtures.
And tighten up the play between the dizzy drive spindle and dizzy, as there is a bit of play there.

Anyway I stoked that the car is now fully drive able so I'll install the idle jets retune, fix the dizzy then continue with the running in procedure.
Then drop oil. Give it a few more ks, retorque the head if needed.
I've still got to fix the ignition switch as I'm still starting the car by bridgeing the starter terminals with a screw driver, then fix my 200b SSS booster and reinstall that as the stanza one fouls the accel cable making the throttle tight to press.

Then off to the dyno.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

This is after I tuned the idle mixtures and balanced the carbs with 65f8 idle jets, idling at 1000 rpm ign timing 17 deg at 1000rpm. Hopefully retune with leaner idle jets today.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

Not saying you have any trouble, just a suggestion for trying more:

If you have any trouble with the ignition timing, like too advanced or retarded or just not "right", try setting it to about 31 degrees at 3000 rpm (or whatever rpm where the advance is fully in).
You may have to get someone to hold the revs steady, while you carefully swing the spanner extremely close to the fan!

If there's still any trouble, then it could be time for a recurved overhauled distributer - it makes an absolute world of difference to idle, smoothness, revs, everything! For a performance L4 engine you probably want full advance of 31 degrees by about 3000 rpm, can't remember what the advance range is, something like 15 or 20 degrees - the "How to Hotrod and Race your Datsun" book would tell us. Idle advance won't be as critical as whatever RPM it is you cruise at, for example 2000 to 3000 rpm. For anything faster than cruising, you'd only be worried about full advance.

_________________
'71 Datsun 1600, SR20DET red-top
Mostly OK, needs typical rust and panel work.

I tried setting the ign timing as baz mentioned 36 at 4000.
Not sure if it's my timing light or the play in the dizzy, but the timing mark is very eratic at that rpm. So I'll just set it at idle for now.

I'm going to take the play out of where the tang from the dizzy shaft spindle goes into the dizzy and see if that helps. I'll use a thin piece of rubber or coke can as others have used. And I'll see if that helps.

If it goes to Stewart wilkins for tuning he will recurve and make any repairs to the dizzy then.

Also anyone have any other recommendations on a dyno tuning place at either sydney or Newcastle, I'm on the central coast but going to Newcastle suits me better.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

I have dyno tuned my own weber L series many times.
An interesting point is that most times they needed richening up to make max HP.

I generally made 10 to 15hp extra. BUT the engines were not as crisp to drive & my point to point
test times were slower.

Now I tune them a tad lean for faster times.
They are also better on the street if not over rich.

Removing the play from the dissy drive is the way to go.
Not keen on using rubber strip tho.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Run the engine in, dropped the oil.
I pulled the rocker cover to check cam wipe is good on the rockers, as I have a very small window with the wipe pattern. so I will be keeping a close eye on that, found number 4 intake was running either extremely close or slightly off the end of the rocker. Checked the valve lash on that valve and there was a little to much clearance so I tightened it up, I've since rechecked the wipe pattern and it's centred.
I will recheck all valve clearances soon.

Done a compression test as well, I've got 210 psi on all cylinders.

Also decided to port match my exhaust manifold, if I knew I was going to use this manifold I would have done it when I done the head.


You can get an indication from the carbon mark, didn't go all the way to the mark as the gasket is bigger than the port, so the mark isn't actually how big the port is but it's a good guide as you can look at the port and where the gasket is bigger and enlarge the manifold where it needs it.



Bit of work with the die grinder and it's done.
Although it's not the set of custom headers I wanted to make, this factory manifold looks a lot better than the three types of generic extractors I have, including a pacemaker set.
And the factory manifold has more meat at the flange to match the port in the head to the manifold.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

Couple of pics. Terrible quality, from my iphone and bad light.
Car will be going for a dyno tune in a couple of weeks, it definately needs it.
It's still great to drive though and sounds great, engine pulls from around 3000 to 6000 rpm then drops off quickly, still feels like it's held back though.
It will interesting to see what they can get out of it. Cam may need retarding as well. I've got a regraphed s2 bluey dizzy on the way.
As you can see in the pics I have the standard wheels with the cheese cutter tyres, there acting as tge fuse for the drive line, particularly the 40 year old r160
The other day I was driving and when the cam kicked in in 2nd and the wheels started spinning at first I thought it was the clutch slipping then realised when the back kicked out

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

Love the standard rims with hubcaps, and the hot l series
I would build a similar 1600 if i was going to do it again.

_________________
Circuit Race 1600 in the build

I second that! Great looking package, I'm a big fan of the GL stainless trim down the sides as well. Reminds me of my old car.

Did you get those bits in the engine bay electroplated or were you lucky enough to have some NOS parts?

Yeah just had some stuff replated. Not factory quality but it looks alright and it's really cheap to do.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

Bit of a bump on this.
Haven't had to much time to do anything on this. Taken it for a run now and then.
Going to be installing my wideband this weekend and going to do a bit of tuning. I've got a few jets and emulsion tubes to play with.

One other thing that I'd like to sort out is the engine seems to be back to front when cold and hot.
The engine runs fantastic dead cold and while it's warm, but when fully up to temp it still runs well at low rpms but starts to get real rough at higher rpm (around and above 5000) I thought it may need colder plugs, I went from Ngk bp5es to bp6es. Not sure if it made a difference as it's just to long between the periods when I drive it.
Could it need colder plugs again bp7es? Are plugs common for high compression l series?

Or am I barking up the wrong tree?

I'll up date after the weekend with results and a few pics of a couple of little things I've done.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

BP7ES for sure, if there's still problems after changing to them its something other than plugs.
Could even be something else affected by heat like coil or condensor.

welding on the bung for the wideband, thought id kill 2 birds with one stone. so i made a new y pipe for the exhaust manifold, the old one was leaking badly and i had a rego check today, and i would have had to fix it anyway.

so i guess you can tell why it was leaking, made a sweet sound though, like a kombi...



got some shiz from the local exhaust shop, they even had new y pipe flanges to suit the datsun manifold and as they said they arent real common and lucky they had them aswell as the gaskets.
new y pipe made and bolted tight to the manifold and used sealant. as this will not be removed from the manifold.
i put a bolt on flange on the the other end of the y pipe to bolt to the exhust system.
so when i remove the manifold the y pipe will come with it, like a set of headers.




then welded on the great bung holio for the 02 sensor

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

the other thing i had to fix up for rego was the open ram tubes on the webers, pretty sure they wont pass those.

so in about an hour i hacked the s@%t out of a twin hitachi aircleaner box, welded a couple of extra pieces of sheet on then hit it quickly with a can of black.
its so dodgy.
but now it looks a bit more rego check friendly and i can plug the rocker cover vent and crank case breather into the air cleaner.
any way it worked for the check now i can shelve it till next year
when i take it off ill post a pick of what i done to it, its pretty rough.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

bought a oil pressure gauge finally, should of really fitted one long ago.
its in a 2 gauge pod with the wideband gauge. suits the other gauges well. black face white needle.
ive got a water temp gauge the same same style, all three would look sweet in one of those custom 3 gauge and stereo surrounds being sold on ozdat and ebay.


any one know what my oil pressure should be??
this is engine hot(forget the temp gauge i have the wrong sender and it reads on the first cold line when the engine is fully warm)
1000 rpm


engine warm 2000 rpm

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.