painted the front end bits and pieces

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

also checked bearing clearances main, rods all good, ring gaps done.
bottom end rotating assembly all together.





trying to work out the lash pad thickness, adding .15mm shims under stock lash pads, and getting the wipe on the lash pad is really tricky i have only got a really small window and the lash pads i need are huge.

5 of them need to be 8mm(around .310 in) the other 3 about 8.25mm(or .320 in) a far cry from the .260 thou pads isky cams recommends.
tried stewart wilkins but he doesnt have them that big but he was talking about putting a 2mm shim in the retainer then using around a 6mm(around .240 in). i think i can get them from the usa that size but its a bit of stuffing around for lash pads





heres the shims i used all stacked up under the standard lash pad.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

im setting up the cam timing with my new engine to check for piston to valve clearance.

heres my cam specs



i set up the cam timing as per factory specs.(cam lobes at 10 and 2 o'clock bright link on mark on the crank sprocket, bright link on pos 1 on cam sproket and cam dowel in pos 1 cam sproket and v notch on the mark)





with a degree wheel on the crank and tdc found and marked, i checked the cam timing from the cam specs on this card.
everything lines up well. i get inlet and exhaust opening at the same points on my degree wheel as the cam card. both the .017 and .050 valve lift readings are the same( inlet opens 44 @ .017 & 28 @ .050, exhaust opens 82 @ .017 & 66 @ .017)
and im also reading the right valve lift .595 lift

but the cam specs say inlet close at 66 afterbdc @ .050 and im getting 54@ .050 abdc
and on exhaust specs say ex close at 28 atdc @ .050 and im getting 16 @ .050 atdc

when the specs say i should have .050 lift on the inlet and exhaust closes, i checked what lift i have at those degrees(inlet 66 abdc and exhaust 28 atdc) and i actually have .017 lift.

and when the specs say i should have .017 lift on the inlet and exhaust closes, i checked what lift i have at those degrees( inlet82 abdc and exhaust 44 atdc) and i actually have 0 lift the valves seat at exactly those degrees.

anyone know wtf is going on here??

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

but the cam specs say inlet close at 66 afterbdc @ .050 and im getting 54@ .050 abdc
and on exhaust specs say ex close at 28 atdc @ .050 and im getting 16 @ .050 atdc

66-54=12
28-16=12

advance the cam,

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
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"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Don't put your .010 lash in when you're setting it up

why not?? thats what i was doing

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

baz the inlet and exhaust open when the should. but @.050 the cam should have 274 degree duration. im getting 262 duration @.050. so the opening degrees are right but because im only getting 262 degrees the close degrees are behind
so dont i have to retrard the opening degrees bringing the close degrees back to square it up a bit if i advance it wont the close degrees be even further behind.??

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

The cam is symetrical.
Set it up using the center angle method & then check the timing.

I would start with 110 degree ATDC inlet & then check the exhaust is 110 BTDC.
If not adjust until both are equal ie 105 BTDC & 105 ATDC.
This at max lift of valve.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

baz the inlet and exhaust open when the should. but @.050 the cam should have 274 degree duration. im getting 262 duration @.050. so the opening degrees are right but because im only getting 262 degrees the close degrees are behind
so dont I have to retrard the opening degrees bringing the close degrees back to square it up a bit if I advance it wont the close degrees be even further behind.??

Yes, you are correct here. however the only way to sort out where you are is to use the center angle.
At least this will get the cam opening & closing very close. It could even be the wrong profile even.

If the rocker angles, valve heights are out, using the center angle will compensate for this.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

.......

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

I guess the .............. means you dont get the center angle method.
This is how Nissan set their cams.
Have a look at the chart & note that symetrical cams ie. the ones that have the same timing
inlet & exhaust have the max lift of valves at the same # of degrees , except they are ATDC & BTDC.
Study the chart & all will be clear.

http://www.datsport.com/Camshaftspec.html

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

Haha, no baz ........ Didn't mean I didn't understand(although I didn't) I was trying to post up some pics of stuff id done with my car, but I'm away for work and using my iPhone for the net, and I couldn't figure out how to post pics from photobucket on the my phone(any one have any ideas or a better picture hosting site that is more phone friendly) any way I gave up and edited the post to ........

I'd sort of put the cam timing on the back burner, as I was concentrating on painting and fixing a few other things up so when the strokers ready it can go strait in.

I'm waiting on some lash pads( huge around .340) coming from America. Didn't think lash pads were going to be the thing to hold me up so bad.
Seeing as I knew the lash pads would be a while thought I'd revisit the timing later. Hopefully there at home waiting for me when I get home on Wednesday and ill have another go.

I had a bit of a look at the charts and I understand about what the timing should be, but the process to acheive this should be,

1.Set lash 10 thou(cam specs) rotate cam and achieve max lift at inlet number 1(checking with dial gauge)
2.Rotate crank and get 110 atdc on number 1.(checking with degree wheel)
3.Then put head on block, set timing chain and tensioner up.
4.then check the max lift of exhaust is 110 btdc, if its not the re-adjust until they are the same?

I'll probably get an adjustable cam sprocket but can I set it up with the standard 3 or 4(what I'm using) hole sprockets using this method??

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

1. with sprocket on cam, #1 hole, lobes on #1 pointing upward, slot on cam retaining plate
aligned with "V", like sighting a rifle.
2 Cylinder 1 on exact TDC. ( DO you know the correct way to get exact
TDC?)
fit cylinder head to block with old or spare gasket.
3. Fit chain and rotate to max lift on inlet, & check the # of degrees ATDC.
4. Do the same on the exhaust, BTDC, do not turn engine backwards & keep the load on the chain.
5 . adjust as required, you may need to jump a link forward or back & use different holes on the sprocket.

Your centre angles may vary ie 105, 115, as long as they are the same, 110 is around the mark for stating point.
Yes you may need an adjustable sprocket to get the timing right.

With those huge lash pads you may need higher lip retainers to stop the pads jumping out at high RPM fit cylinder head to block with old or spare gasket.

_________________
A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT

That's exactly how I set it up before and got my inlet open at 28 degrees btdc and exhaust close at 16 atdc at .050 lift.
Which someone on the realm pointed out to me is 6 degrees advanced and if I set up the timing on hole position 2 (4 degrees more advanced or a totall of 10 degrees advance) take the chain back one tooth(9 degrees) I will end up with 1 degree advanced or as close as I will get it with this type of sprocket.

Then If I check my centre angles on inlet and exhaust are very close to being the same degree(I know I'll need to get an adjustable sprocket to get it exact)

Does that sound right??

I'm getting my tdc with a dial gauge on the piston and adjusting mig welding wire as a pointer( rotating crank and rechecking)

And my retainers have high sides, with the head assembled, when I drop standard lash pads in the retainers they are bellow the top of the retainer.

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

Got the engine bay painted, done in acrylic. Radiator support panel done black.

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All the front end bits and pieces re-plated

_________________
When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.