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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 7:55 am 
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Are you have reclining seats Dan? When you have this car done. If its ok with you I would like to take a look at how well it sits with the seats in it.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:12 am 
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Looks ace mate is the any room to lower the front a smidge more? Just looks like it needs to come down another 5mm or so to be perfect :D

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 8:44 am 
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one of the best in aus, just gets better and better as it nears completion! I think having decent tread on the rims makes a huge difference, compared to say a set of 35 series Nankangs. The proper tread and profile sets it off.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:53 pm 
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oi_son wrote:
Are you have reclining seats Dan? When you have this car done. If its ok with you I would like to take a look at how well it sits with the seats in it.
The seats are reclining Sparco R100's. I had to bring the driver's seat down to the shop before the cage was made, he marked out where i wanted to sit and added a bit of room for adjustment.

Just rock up at Datsun Day mate and sit in, or if you're not going i'm gonna be driving this thing for a week straight once done. I'm sure we can meet up somwhere :thumbsup:

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:00 pm 
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trb012 wrote:
Looks ace mate is the any room to lower the front a smidge more? Just looks like it needs to come down another 5mm or so to be perfect :D
good spot. i've been playing around with the rear as it was sitting too low. now that it's sitting right for the 17" wheels i'll make some adjustments to the front. it's got the Mad Dat 200B coils in the front, should take 5 mins. Gotta be careful with lowering for engineering though, the exhaust section past the gearbox is a bit too low. See how it goes.

I was having a chat to Baz about 1600 ride height, apparently 1600's like 15-20mm rake toward the front for better handling. I'll be aiming for something close to this, but won't get spot on due to oversize wheel choice.

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Last edited by DATO4 on Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:04 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:01 pm 
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I will be at Datsun Day. See you there.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:06 pm 
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:thumbsup:

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:12 pm 
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Hey Dan,

Car is looking amazing. Great to see what you have done with the interior. Good luck with it all!

Cheers,

Trent

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:19 pm 
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Thanks Trent. Wish the bloody trimmer would hurry up with the front seats. Once the dash fascia is in, and seats are and given a good clean, will look even better

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 09, 2014 10:20 pm 
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Anth510 wrote:
one of the best in aus, just gets better and better as it nears completion! I think having decent tread on the rims makes a huge difference, compared to say a set of 35 series Nankangs. The proper tread and profile sets it off.
Thanks a lot mate, nice to hear this after years of building and a pile of receipts not wanting to total!

The profile is 45. was worried it would look too thick as most profiles you see on 1600's with larger wheels are 40 or lower. Yeah you're right, a tough tread makes the stance look awesome.

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2014 9:22 pm 
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Putting in some long hours to get this thing finally finished, in under a week for dyno on Thursday.

The shop where it's at now sent me a photo of the fab work almost complete. Looks great

[ img ]

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 8:59 am 
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Ohh, water to air cooler? Nice! Always wondered if they change the induction sound.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:03 pm 
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dunno mate? that has never crossed my mind. hopefully this mostly inclosed air box will soften the induction noise.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 22, 2014 10:59 pm 
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I've got the heat exchanger in the spare wheel well for the W2A intercooler system. It's an ebay special, 3 core Datsun 280Z rad. No way was i spending another $700+ for a PWR or Plazmaman unit. No one's going to see it, this will work well i hope. Got a mate to add some sheet metal to the fan side for improved air direction through it, and weld the filler neck and a few other things.

[ img ]

[ img ]

[ img ]

After the boys at CXC Racing in Narrabeen mounted this, the motor of the 16" thermo fan sits a bit lower than hoped. Gonna try and space it up next week. Depends on how much you can see it from behind. The rad is rubber mounted and the pinch weld has a rubber flap surrounding the fan. Engineering wanted some support due to a large hole being cut out, so 4 pieces of 25x3mm flat bar were welded in at north, south, east, west.

[ img ]

[ img ]

It's going back on the hoist next week to have every nut and bolt tightened up, and give the underbody another lick of stone guard to cover the burn marks from the cage install, the flat bar above etc etc

Few more pics of the engine bay fab work. Probably should explain the setup, as there's a few caps and bits and pieces going on here. The reservoir on the left is the W2A intercooler reservoir. The 2" cap and breather in the middle has a section of 4.5" pipe welded in separately below it. This can be filled with dry ice pellets come summer at the drags or circuit or if i simply just feel like it. The pressure cap is just for system pressure, yes it's not the highest point of the system, but this can be solved by using a piece of hose and a funnel, higher than the cooler in the middle. Plazmaman usually sees the rad cap for the system welded to the core or have a separate filler neck, but space is obviously becoming an issue. Believe it or not, there is a fair bit of clearance between the intercooler and the bonnet. Closes perfect.

CXC did a good job of using ally donuts to construct the plumbing between the cooler and the throttle. The tighter bend is a slight air speed killer, however i'm expecting the short journey of the turbo plumbing to spin the 3582 fair quickly.

I asked the boys to design an air box that was mirrored to the intercooler reservoir. I also specifically didn't want button head cap screws on the top as a lid, really going for a smoother look. So yes, i'll have to take compressor intake plumbing off, and unbolt air box to clean air filter. But happy to do this as not cleaning air filter every week. The design of the box should be very effective in keeping engine bay heat out.

Overall very happy with the design work of the fabrication. It's not what i wanted 100%, but it is hard to describe exactly what you want to a fabricator without the aid of a 3D modelling system or a 3D printer etc.

[ img ]

[ img ]

I will be pulling some all nighters next week to get her ready for Datsun Day and dyno. She's off to paint this weekend for a few touch ups over the years from building, and to cut back paint. The paint is still of the gun. Won't be cutting dead flat, it will take too long, but should look a million bucks after.

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1600 with FJ20 & Simmons. something different.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 23, 2014 9:21 am 
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Freaken awesome man. I bet you are glad to have it at this stage. It makes it easier to see things coming together.
The bend you have in the intake pipe/intercooler pipe wont be bad at all considering some of the bends some high power cars are running. It looks nice and smooth so shouldn't be a problem. Looks ace anyway.
Getting close to fault finding and tweaking soon! I reckon some ducting on the fan at the back will increase efficiency (depending on if you need it!)
All part of the fun tweaking!
I ended up ducting/sealing my radiator/intercooler and on a reasonable day driving the damn thing never kicks the thermo fan on!
I'm looking forward to a track day to test it out where I used to have issues. I also sealed the bonnet to the top of the radiator support.

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