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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 4:34 pm 
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Hopefully a quick and easy one.
I'm rewiring my car, new blade fuse box included, and a Fusible link is used between the main power feed to the
fuse box. What size do I get?
Ratings that I can buy through the normal channels for Fusible Link wire at 150mm length range from 16 -30 Amps.

The original on my factory wiring is Red, which is 22 Amp according to my book here at work.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 6:47 pm 
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Location: Wollongong NSW
Probably looking at a 20 gauge 0.5mm square for the one that comes straight off your battery if your running more accessory stuff you need to take all of thier draw into account and probably run them straight from the battery with thier own links..
Hope that helps.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 7:50 pm 
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Your choice but why not give the fuseable link the flick and replace it with a Maxi fuse instead :idea:
http://www.narva.com.au/products/browse/maxi
More conventional and far easier to service.
Don't forget, the fuse [rating] is there to protect the wiring, not vice versa :roll:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 8:53 pm 
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I was looking at using a newer fusible link (the plastic 2 pin/leg type) but couldn't find a holder, never thought of the Maxi Fuse, and I see I can get an inline holder for it too.
Problem solved! Cheers guys.
Quote:
Don't forget, the fuse [rating] is there to protect the wiring, not vice versa
I get that it's there to protect the wiring, but haven't ever really thought about them in the past. It needs to handle the current draw of the car right?
So say headlights on, high beams on, radio on, fuel pump whirring away, brake lights on and I hit the horn! All with the interior light on indicating to turn left.
But if there's a spike she blows... i.e. when people jump start cars wrong. So what is too big a fusible link? And how do I work out what is too small?

I am running standard almost everything, with halogen headlights (55w/60w) + (100w) through 30A fused relays, and a stereo (no amps, no subs) that has it's own 15A fuse built in. Fuel pump will also be through a 30A fused relay.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:03 pm 
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EDIT***

I stand corrected... I don't need it to handle the current draw of EVERYTHING... it just clicked. The original Datto fuse box was split in 2.
Some fuses were powered constantly (via a fusible link).
The others received power from the ignition barrel (ignition ON).

had to correct myself.. out there wiring and remembered this... the new 12 way fuse box I have is split in two... so one half will be constant, the other ignition on.
Accessories (only radio) I will power through the ignition switch (ACC) and fuse the radio.


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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 10:14 pm 
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Ahhhhhhhhh!
Electrickery, always good fun :lol: :lol:

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PostPosted: Fri Jan 14, 2011 11:22 pm 
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Location: Blue Mountains, NSW
Genius!

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PostPosted: Sat Jan 15, 2011 1:11 pm 
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still need to figure what size maxi-fuse to use.. i might start with a 40A and see what happens... i'll grab a 50A as well.


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