A few pics of my machine........

For the tech heads,
L28 N42/N42 combo. Stock camshaft and compression.
280zx dizzy, MSD 6 BTM amp, upgraded 8mm leads, NGK BP7ES plugs.
Arizona Z Car four barrel intake manifold, Holley 465 carburettor modified, Carter fuel pump and upsized to 5/16 fuel lines throughout.
Headers with thermal wrap and 2.5 inch pipe and two mufflers.
Three core radiator, 20psi cap, water wetter, LD28 water pump, 87 degree thermostat.
L4N71B four speed overdrive automatic with high stall converter 2.5K rpm and lock up retained, aftermarket trans oil cooler, adjustable modulator valve, one piece tailshaft. H190 diff open wheeler with stock 4.11's
Bendix ultimate pads, fully reconditioned brakes front and rear.
Wagon front sway, 23 mm's, custom rear bar 22 mm's (Euro spec) Standard ride height.
Innovate wide band oxygen sensor.....

Cheers

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

man those y34 wheels look H-A-R-D (its a good thing!) I love that with the JDM nissan symbol they look like a "real" version of the factory hubcaps. Man i dislike hubcaps.

Those pictures dont do justice... the chrome on this car shines.

-pete

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"Cheating gets it faster"

Hi ozconnection

I was wondering who fitted the..L4N71B four speed overdrive automatic. for you.. i have a 280C (430)and want a four speed put in it. if you can point me in the right direction . would be much appreciated.

Hey 80cedric,

I had the conversion done at Stewart Wilkins. We used a late model R30 L24E transmission.

There are several things to look out for:
The engine flexplate (auto trans flywheel) is different on the 4 speed unit.
The output shaft on the 4 speed is bigger than the L3N71B or FS571B output shafts.
The 4 speed trans is longer and slightly wider than the 3 speed so some tunnel massaging may be needed on the 430 Cedric (the 330 needed it!). The tailshaft needed to be shortened with the new yoke. The second part of the shaft was unmodified.
The crossmember needed to be custom fabricated. I grabbed an R31 crossmember and had that modified as it was quite close to what was needed to work.
The shifter linkage needed some 'lateral thinking' to select 1st gear on the shifter. I got the car home and sorted this one out myself by drilling a new hole in the Tee bar linkage. (think of a see saw and you'll have an idea of what I'm saying, I just sat closer to the centre and not on the end of the see saw for the shifter to work the way it was supposed to and get 1st gear.)

So, get the R30 box, the flexplate and the 1st part of the tailshaft from the R30 and a crossmember from an R31 automatic with the L4N71B, the later ones ran a different box. The VL's ran 4N's, look for the hydraulic shifted ones, and avoid the added work to instal the electronically controlled E4N71B trannies.

Final drive is different on the R30's, so you may want to change out the speedo drive to one that suits a 4.11 diff in the Cedric. I used a converter box supplied by a company called "Mark's 4WD adapters". Told them what I had and they sent me a box that goes between the speedo drive and cable to sort the speedo out. Works great.

The 1st two gears are slightly lower on the 4 speed (2.8 1st, 1.5 2nd) so accel is a bit better off the line. That 0.686 O/D is what we're after, and its awesome on the open road.

There is a heap of aftermarket upgrades for these boxes, high stall converters, adjustable modulator valves and 'shift kits'. Or keep it stock.

Transforms the car and cuts the buzz at 100km/h with better accel and improved fuel economy. I love it.

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

A beautiful winter's day outside and I thought........

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Sweeeet ride that is Mark, it looks fantastic, you look very proud in that second picture and rightfully so. 330 Cedrics Just look so cool don't they

Happy Cedri - King
Graham

I have nothing new to contribute so I'll just reiterate:

Chrome....Wheels... Sik Mutha!

-PK

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"Cheating gets it faster"

It's just lovely to see these old rides in such pristine condition!
Certainly something to be proud of!

Well done.

Cheers
Arrie

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Look after your lady and she will look after you!

My Datsun/Nissan History (South Africa)
1974 Datsun 260c Auto - In Progress
2009 Nissan NP200 - 2009 to current
1999 Nissan Centra 160i - 2003 to 2006
1984 Datsun 1400 LDV - 1996 to 2002

Very nice....
4N71b is a great trans, I have one 100% stock in my R30 SKyline Ti, goes very nice.
only downside is it is very hard to cruise at 100km/h as the throttle will only be 'just' cracked open, so it picks up speed gradually at the same load & throttle. 110km/h is heaps better.

Looking at doing some form of a shift kitting as there are some leaks to fix, may as well get it going better while Im playing on it! (plus it will be better for when 8psi arives)

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R30 skyline hatch TURBO project

Yeah, thanks mate

I've very recently toyed with the idea of a shift kit, wanting to sharpen up the changes but the mod is permanent.

It would be great if you could select soft or tight changes via a switch or something, so when you want some fun, it responds but when cruising around with the family, it shifts gently.

I've got the spring and instructions from RB30X and need to modify my valve body and put it in, but I'm still undecided. I really don't want to start changing uni's and stuff on a semi regular basis. I'm scared it would compromise the cars reliability, which it seems to have ATM.

Thoughts?

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Yeah I have the same kit. Seems like a good result form the other fellas who have done it, but also the hard jolt will put more stress on the mounts and diff etc.
The only way I can figure out how to 'soften the blow' is to have a variable restriction in the vac source line to the trans, im not too sure what it would do exactly, like a small tap that can be screwed in and out so vary the initial pressure (not the total)
Ive heard of similar experiments with a small aluminium drink bottle T-ed into the source line, creating a volume chamber that also buffers the pressures....
I could be thinking wrong though..... I like to tinker, just hard to do on a daily driver!

Might see you at teh datsun show on the 31st?
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... 56#p185656

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R30 skyline hatch TURBO project

"You reckon a 1984 MR30 Skyline classifies enough to enter?!?!? (with a boot load of goodies!)"

Ha Ha, can I bring a bootfull of goodies too?

See you there boys.

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

I think the vacuum signal to the VMV is used to determine WHEN the shift takes place, not how HARD the shift is. These valves are available as adjustable units too. I've got one in my car along with a longer than standard pin, together they delay early upshifts so the trans. 'feels' more responsive.

I do, however, like the idea of chirping into second!!!

I just gotta pull my finger out....

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Hey, for anyone who's interested, I ran my car with the G Tech tonight and got my best times ever with this car.

0-100 kmh in 9.54 seconds
0-400 metres in 17.03 seconds at 136.3 km/h

No holding of gears, and no stalling the converter at take off.

The temperature outside was 14 degrees C and dry with virtually no wind.

I'm very happy with it.

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'

Shock Horror......my car got very hot on the way home from Newcastle the other day.

Had a look under the bonnet to find that the coolant level was low and the head gasket was weeping coolant.

I had this problem a long time ago when I first installed this HG. I had a choice of ripping off the head and putting in another HG or using a bottle of Bar's leaks. I thought what the hell and threw the sealer compound at it.

Results: it worked a treat. No more weeping for nearly 6 years until now. It's suggested on the bottle that the solution works for 6 months/10K kms, so I think I got my moneys worth.

I've done everything I can so far to see if I have a failed HG but all testing has shown no damage to cylinder sealing.

Some might argue that it's time to change the gasket but I've just thrown another dose of the sealer solution in the radiator. All I can do now is wait and see what happens.

BTW, the car still runs great!

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1971 240C P230 coupe L28 10.5:1 comp. N/A Haltech Elite 750. ITB's, tuned exhaust, 6 speed manual trans 4.625 LSD

'Nissantiques - Join the Club'