funny thing, there was another 1600 at the shop getting an exhaust for their NA SR done. the place is renowned for it's commodore exhausts/turbo kits, lots of classic holdens and fords go for their work. the guy has a good reputation, referred by a friend, happy with the result.

the lip hasn't been attached yet it's been sitting pretty with some clamps, took it off before the tow to the exhaust shop.
will be up very soon. my idea is to drill a series of holes through the lip first, then clamp in place and do the same on the front apron.
then use some nice stainless machine thread allen key screws and nyloc nuts. will probably use some double-sided foam tape to cushion
it against the apron for no rattles (like newer cars do standard these days)
most newer front lips nowadays just use clips, maybe the odd bolt, but once it's on, the screws will be underneath it, out of sight.

so it's home, finished today. 3" stainless, Magnaflow cat, resonator and muffler with a flexi join and sleeved at the rear so it's all removable
even though it goes through the rear crossmember. nice and quiet at idle, will take it for a spin over the next few days to see how it is on noise.
need to tidy up the alignment and tighten up a few things first.

can't get this baby to run properly. it's missing and running rough. tried cleaning the plugs up a bit.. might try some new ones again to be sure to be sure.
had the exhaust guy plug in his code reader, had MAF (or MAF circuit) and CTS (or CTS circuit). he cleared them and started the car, they didn't come up again.
MAF was cleaned and tested by Pete @ PLMS. CTS when unplugged makes it run SUPER rich, so it's working to some extent.
might just need a good run as it's all carbon'd up from idling and cold starting in the driveway while getting it together.
i don't want to go for a proper drive until i have my temp gauge hooked up... still waiting on an adapter :/

Looks the goods mate, I'm considering getting the resonator on mine too. Mine is quiet but still has a drone inside the cabin which is going to send me bonkers I think. I might wait until the car is registered first. I'd have liked to have gotten a cross flow muffler for it too, mine enters in the middle and exits on the side instead of opposing thinking that may have quitened it down. But I think i'll just go the resonator like my old one. Keep the pics coming mate. I'd give the car a bit of the Italian tune before going onto anything else, see if that fixes the car. Whats the go with tuning these days? Will that increase or decrease the emissions? Being as they're both 3" exhausts with Hi Flow cats etc. Do you think a tune will be required for emissions tests etc?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

tune or no tune, emissions is emissions.. and so is the sound level.
i don't think we have detailed emission laws here in WA, other than if it's unleaded it must have a Catalytic converter. i guess i'll find out.
i think sound is the first one.. even the EPA test for sound, because hurting peoples ears is hurting the environment. :ahem: :cough: "harley davidson with pipe removed" :cough: :gang leave them alone:

got new plugs (again) and a CTS today ($40 Nissan new), i will change them out systematically... and check each coil is sparking well as i go... failing that, fuel pressure reg and a tune.
it should idle normally from start up, maybe the damage is done to the plugs.. would carboned cylinders affect it? can i clean them "in a can"?

and of course... a good drive... STILLLLLLLLL waiting for my adapter... >(

cancelling my dynotune on wednesday, heading to sydney for a few days...

well i think it's the fuel pressure reg, or something to do with fuel pressure... i'm waiting on my PLMS cable and software to monitor everything, should be here in the next couple of days (even though i'll be on the other side of the country, so will have to wait until Monday) checked the return line, it's returning at rail and at tank end of hose. smell like fuel now. :/

when i pull the fuse on the fuel pump, within seconds it stops missing and idles smooth at 20hg vacuum and revs smooth.... but doesn't run out of fuel.. even after 5-10 mins with bringing the revs up to 2000 for a few seconds. i wonder if the FPR is stuck open? but that doesn't explain the overfuelling, does it?

the only other thing i can think of is that it's blocked at the fuel pump housing end so the fuel is never leaving the return line. will have to remove pump housing from tank and watch and see.

The latest batch of goodies:

PLMS Consult plug/usb lead
Some new silicone vac hose (the last stuff has been chopped up too many times with me working sh** out, joiners everywhere)
Battery hold down (white wrap on it to stop scratching, it's ally, will match the rad/IC top plate/air guide)
The two missing components to my handbrake being complete, the little cylinder that the M6 cable end threads through and the adjuster, still available from Nissan ex-Japan.
A new coolant temp sensor (thanks to the PLMS loom) it's showing as the fault again, so new from Nissan again (lucky I work in the parts game)
Turbosmart bleed valve (thanks ebay)
and.....
my adapter for the coolant temp sender (for gauge) to go from M12x1.25 to 1/8" NPT (thanks again ebay)... 5 days from Japan vs 5 weeks and a Paypal dispute for one from QLD that
I'm waiting on my refund for.

front lip not on at the moment, that's next.. underneath it drilling holes to mount it "tight, like a tiger"

but it's 99% there now
and a cuppla vids
http://youtu.be/8XJAaRWVXUE
http://youtu.be/QlAunDMKWes

Looks great Ryan. When is it off for the engineers? You must be wrapped!

Cheers,

Trent

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1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

small checklist to go:

wipers, sunvisors, door mirror(s), door trims, mount gauges (yep, still fluffing around with that), rear seatbelts, wheel alignment and tune.

found the reason for the rough running and rich rich rich A/F. the AFM supplied with my engine/box package was for an S15 SR20DE. let the guy know that I bought it off
had the right one the same day. running heaps better. but it needs a good run/clean. it's been clogged up a bit with all the richness :/

in the meantime the papers will go off to our Dept of Transport for Modification Approval (our version of Engineers Cert. in WA), when that's all clear, over the pits for the seal of approval
and all the mod certificates.

Golf and a trip to Sydney and work have gotten in the way a little bit of progress lately.

If you get checked for emissions, then it's probably a good idea to take her on a nice long drive beforehand to blow all the crap out.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

It will be driven around before the official check The car is licensed, just with an L18 So I'll give it a few runs.

wheel alignment today. had a good 50k drive over the last couple of days. runs smooth as on the basic map Pete (PLMS) set up. tune yet to come.
wow it likes to light the rears when it hits boost just saying

and in breaking news... decided last week that I'm moving to Sydney. See you in about 8 weeks.

Great to hear Ryan. Good luck with the move.

_________________
1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

Nice mate. We'll go for a cruise when you get here!

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18