haven't thought about an oil cooler at all, no.

these came today, ex-Nissan Japan. still available if anybody wants to buy them.

Battery in the boot for better weight distribution FTW.
Put it on the passenger side for a bit of 'wedge'.
Cheapest oil cooler you can get (and extra engine safety) is to buy one of the larger baffled sumps. Increases oil capacity to around 5 litres and provides a hole to put a temp probe in. Price is around $150+ if you know where to look. Highly recommended modification to an SR20DET with only 3.7L of oil from factory.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

well i have the winged sump, so there is more oil. battery only weighs 6kg, so i'll just lose that weight!

i'm not overly concerned about a few kg's here or there until i drive and and have some fun at the track in it.. then i might start getting OCD... we'll see.

either way, it's gonna be SOOOOO good to drive a datto again, it's been something like 6 or 7 years...

Pending we manage to get the registered with all the engineering deliberation going on mate!
Either that, or we can have ourselves some hectic track cars!

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

[LIKE]

nearly there, the last critical parts before i turn it over.

it's alive http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFw8BnRaHBE

bbbrrrrrrrooooooooooooommmmmmmmmm, bbrrrrooooooooooommmmmmmm!

Congrats on gettin goin!

Good work Rayn

Is that the Datsport IC?

Cheers,

Trent

_________________
1600 Build: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=22694

That's awesome. You must be stoked!

Yep Trent, it's the Datsport setup.

Those of you with SR's what do you do with the three vacuum lines under the throttle body?
Blank them off, or does one need to run somewhere?
While it was idling, I put fingers over each one, with 2 covered, it dropped to a low smoother idle, with three blocked it stalled.

And I have to source some heater hoses that will work too. I bought a heater tap off ebay, it doesn't look anything like the original either so will have to "make" it fit
or find an alternative.

and YES!!!!! STOKED!!! Now all the finishing bits..

Dunno what the S14 ones are like, but I have a diagram. On mine. I blocked off the one that went to the Charcoal canister.
One (smaller) went to Fuel Pressure Reg.
Larger one I went to BOV actuator and I tee'd into this line for the Boost Gauge.
Finally, a line from Pipework (before the IC - my own reasoning there) to the Wastegate Solenoid to sense pressure.

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

I also blocked off the one that goes from the charcoal canister to the pressure side of the throttle body.
Fuel pressure reg is as per drawing above.
Large one goes to BOV (as per factory) I also teed into that line for boost gauge as it is after the throttle butterfly.
The one that goes to the charcoal canister after the TB is vacuum on partial throttle, but goes through a one way valve. You can block this off, or use it for other vacuum/boost measurement.

_________________
1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

cheers guys.