Well its not really that close, its a PLMS dump pipe (which incidentally cracked and I had to tig it up recently). Also a lot of heat is generated in the cat which is under the passenger seat.

In hot weather you could barely touch the floor/tunnel without burning your hand after a fast run or long spell in traffic.

And, yea I do drive a lot at WOT

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1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp

I've used that stuff by Stinger on the inside of my 180B and boy did it make a huge difference, I used to hardly hear my splits and after I wacked in a few sheets of this stuff in I can hear every single sound nice and clear.

I'm sure they sell it in bigger sheets, but yes AutoRanch takes for ever to order stuff in, that said why don't you try JB Hi-Fi?????

Alex

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"You stay classy OzDat"

I used the stuff Baz has years ago on my last 16. It worked, but i think it would have been better had i actually glued it hard onto the metal. I just used the self adhesive backing, and that kept coming off. Reason: basically you want something heavy to stop the panels vibrating. As this transfer of energy is what causes the sound to travel and if you can stop that, that will fix a lot of your problems. When you do a google search on it, it will come back with heaps of information on sound transfer and talking about reflecting sound waves, absorbing them etc. This has been covered and covered heaps before. But basically, the effective stuff is heavy where as the foam stuff is lighter, and you would really have to stick it hard to make the panels more solid. So the jaycar stuff is similar to the Dynamat. Which is also similar to Flashtack (but not as thick, which my mate has used on his car stereo behind some panels, Works well, but i don't recommend doing a whole care with it). It is a bitumin based product with the aluminium on the top. The idea is that it will have the adhesive side with the bitumin paint to stop the panels moving with the sound waves, then move through the layer of bitumin itself as a barrier to absorb it and the aluminium reflects the rest of the sound from coming through. Its all the same stuff. I looked into it heavily years ago. So find something similar to that, but thickish (not overly) and glue the beast hard onto the panels, that will yeild better results. I woulnd't really care about brands, but the jaycar stuff that your talking about is going to be expensive with the amount you get versus cost of the sheet (I was doing prices ages ago when i did it for my old car).

Hope that didn't confuse you more!

Short of hijacking this thread. Other than checking for rust, is there any point in removing the stock body deadener on the floors? I am in the process of restoring a 1600 and on my last one i just left it there, but on this one i am planning something different. I plan on spraying the same thing as jdmdatsun510 did on his restore project. Entire interior with sound deadener paint stuff. Then sound proof that with proper sound deadening stuff.

Wondering would it be more beneficial to remove it now then put something else down later? or will it serve no purpose other than to check for rust issues.

Cheers

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

I sprayed the underside of my car in 2 pack "sound deadener", but it's quite a hard product when it's set, and I think it's more to stop stone chips on the underside of the car and the guards. My recommendation is to leave the sound deadener on the inside floor (where the back seat is) as this is usually where no rust forms (unless the car has been left out in the rain with leaking window rubbers). When I was seam welding the car (underneath), the sound deadener on the inside doesn't like the heat and in those areas it is best to remove it and replace it with paint/more sound deadener. There was virgin sheet metal underneath, so I left it. I don't have a back seat either.

My 2c.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

So Nik, did you get anywhere with this? I see you are trying to rectify the cause and not cover it up, (which suits your whole build of the car), with the diff, but did you end up laying some sound deadener down?

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

Stoney,

I laid the Dynamat sound deadener (took the fuel tank out), but the difference was minimal to the whine. I also laid this stuff on the firewall to remove some of the engine noise. I can say it made a small difference, but really I only covered 2/3rds of the firewall. It was more heat/sound that I was worried about. Most of the noise comes from the rear (exhaust and diff), so I will be targeting that area especially.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

I'm noticing now that there are a lot of Gaps from the firewall that you need to fill. Extending right up under the dash, the whole top half of the firewall. Some holes that lead to the open, such as the windscreen wiper hole that is behind the heater where the drain is for the windscreen. All that top part of the firewall will resonate a lot of sound. It will probably make a difference to Engine noise if you can get to those panels as best you can. I found that a huge improvement was made when i did the under side of the bonnet. With just normal foam with the foil on it. That made quite a noticeable difference.

On the rear, I've always had issues with that. The reverberation just gets to you. (Side note, isn't a diff that whine's a bad thing???) Try and seal up the boot from the cabin as best you can, but don't use steel or aluminium unless you put a foam barrier between all metal surfaces, as it will rattle and vibrate like a beast (Old rally car problem). Nice work under the fuel tank. But gotta stick stuff hard all over the boot floor and in the wheel well also (if its just covered, but isn't stuck to stop the panels vibrating then it sorta defies the point of stopping the sound moving). I even went so far as to stick extra stuff under the rear seat too. But as with all old cars, Lots and Lots of steel, and as they say. Sometimes you've just gotta deal with it. (last option... Resonator on the exhaust )

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Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Does anyone know where you can get synthetic carpet underlay?
I don't particularly want to put some felt underlay made from cotton as it holds water.

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

carpet shop?

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1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp

HAhahah
Yeah. I'm having trouble getting the Thermo-Tec Thermo Guard stuff from Rocket.
Thought there might be an alternative...

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

Nik,

Check out Bridgestone Gold Rubber underlay - good thermal and noise reduction properties - we use it for sound proofing between floors in apartments and has also been tested by CSIRO to withstand 30 mins in intense fire before deteriorating!

Can get this from any carpet supplier and pretty cheap!

Mark

Cool.

Will check it out!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

So what was the verdict? Any better yet?

_________________
Ongoing Project: 1972 Datsun 510 S13 SR20Det. http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=33&t=17898
New Daily: D22 Navara (The new workhorse)
Retired 12/2016: MY98 Subaru Impreza RX
Previous Car: Restored Green 1972 Datsun 510, Hot L18

Not really. It's the exhaust system and vibrations/noise. I'm still trying heaps and every time I try something it makes it a little better!

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1972 Datsun 1600, S14 SR20DET Engineered (204rwkW @ 17psi.)
viewtopic.php?t=6579
#SR20Datsun @SR20Datsun

So what percentage of your car is now covered in sound deadener?

what major areas haven't you done yet?

If i was to rebuild a car from shell up, i'd be going the same route that 'overhaulin' do, and basically completely cover every square inch of panel available, modern car feel, so what if it adds another 30kg (or however much it is)

Havwe you done the rear quarters yet? they are quite a large panel that could easily reverberate noise around and amplify it

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au