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 Post subject: Re: DAT200 s13 front end
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 3:10 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 21, 2011 12:22 pm
Posts: 100
200bee stings wrote:
And maybe do something similar to this I don't like how the nut is welded but.(Not my picture found it in the for-sale thread was for sale as a s13 kit )

[ img ]

I bought that and had it running in my Stanza prior to taking it off the road for SR power. I've engaged with an engineer for my SR conversion and one of my questions is around these rose jointed tie rod ends and their legality/suitability.

edit:

they are not welded. that is some dirt/debris.

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Last edited by 2ndTimeStanza on Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:46 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: DAT200 s13 front end
PostPosted: Wed Nov 13, 2013 4:41 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2004 8:17 pm
Posts: 916
Location: Western Australia
200bee stings wrote:
Also have this photo showing the difference between the 200b and s13 where they would mount to tie rod end and balljoint not that big of a difference I didn't think ? Does ride height affect the angle of the steering arms in relation to the steering box ?

[ img ]
200b steering arms are bend down from the factory more than 1600 arms are, making it a bit better for the s13 knuckles.
The angle of the steering arm on the s13 knucle is also a bit of a problem. Full droop on the suspension can bind up the outer tie rod.

Only way you can confirm all this is to mock it all up in the car, take the spring off the strut and jack the lower control arm though its travel. It is fairly easy to measure bump steer.
First put the car on axle stands and jack your wheel you want to measure to approx ride height with spring removed.
Put somthing heavy on your brake pedal to stop the wheels turning.

I then clamped a flat piece of metal to the rim with g clamps (you could use a flat piece of ply wood or similar), then run a straight edge ( i used a 3m piece of rectangular tube) along the sill panel of the car and across the piece of metal you clamped to the wheel. Allow about 5mm gap between plate and straight edge.
Then measure the gap between the flat piece of metal and the straight edge in front and behind the wheel and turn the steering wheel slightly until the two measurments are the same. This is your starting point.

Then jack your wheel up 1 inch at a time and take more measurements again between the straight edge and the plate on the wheel.
If the front measurement gets smaller and the rear gets bigger on bump you are toeing in on bump.
It is also wise to check droop aswell.

I aim for less that 1mm bump steer on full droop and full bump

If you replace the outer tie rod end with a rose joint you can easily add/subtract washers as spacers while testing to get minimal bump steer. Then get spacers machined up the right thickness. Be carefull the spacers dont end up too large, there is a lot of force on these joints.

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