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SR/VL Gearbox onto L18
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Author:  Damo666 [ Thu Dec 11, 2003 5:51 pm ]
Post subject:  SR/VL Gearbox onto L18
Hello,

I'm after some info about putting an SR20 or VL gearbox onto an L series engine?

Where can you source the required bellhousing?
What clutch, starter etc is required?

Any info appreciated.

Ta
Damo
Author:  Nissanman [ Thu Dec 11, 2003 6:12 pm ]
Post subject: 
The bonus with the RB30 box from the VL or the FJ20 box (but not the CA18 or SR20 box) is that the bolt pattern is IDENTICAL to the L series engine.
The trouble is the L engine leans to the right and the RB engine leans to the left from the drivers perspective.
So, it may be possible to fit an L series bellhousing to the SR/RB30 box to get the gear stick back vertical and the gearbox back horizontal :wink:
I know the converse can be done, i.e. an FJ/SR/RB bellhousing on an L series 5 speed to fit the FJ/SR/RB engine.
I'm travelling this same path to renew my tired FJ20 5 speed with a 260Z 5 speed so if anyone has some input, please do so :?
Author:  Baz [ Thu Dec 11, 2003 11:15 pm ]
Post subject: 
Yep can be done Graeme. The only difference I can recall was the front layshaft bearing size. Easy conversion & worth it. :wink:
Author:  Group3JDatsun [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 8:20 am ]
Post subject: 
Hey Damo,

You can bolt an SR bell housing onto an L series engine without too many issues - I just did the reverse, L series box (Hollinger 2 gear based on a K box:)) onto my SR.

Sourcing the bellhousing will be your problem. If you can get one, then it will bolt straight up to the sandwich/centerplate of the L series box. The only thing you'll need to sort then will be the input layshaft bearing (as the guy's mentioned). You'll need to downsize to an L series one, as the SR one is around 4mm too big in the OD.

The only other thing you'll need to know about is that the SR box is around 60mm longer than a K box, so you'll need to do more cutting than you would with a K box - but no biggie.

Check the following link for a pic of the boxes side by side:

http://www.group3j.com/whatshappening.html#h-16nov03

Check this link for what we had to do re bearings and stuff:

http://www.group3j.com/whatshappening.html#h-14aug03


Graeme,

It's not a big deal - just a straight bellhousing swap, assuming you've got the same era/style of boxes as I have. AFAIK (and I could be wrong) the Z box and the K box are identical at the bell housing end. Assuming this, it's worth mentioning that my K box had an FJ bellhousing on it and to the best of my knowledge there was no modfications to fit it - not even with the input/lay shaft bearing sizes. We only ran into problems when we swapped extension housings around. So if you find a good Z series box, grab it and swap the bell housings and all _should_ be well. :)
Author:  Guest [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 11:10 am ]
Post subject: 
Excellent,

Thanks for the responses guys.

The car currently has a 240K box in it, but I'm trying to find a cheaper way of getting around the frustrating 2nd to 3rd drop the current box has, without having to resort to a big dollar Option 1 or Hollinger box.

Group3J,

Did you need to change the crossmember, starter or clutch when the box was changed?
(This is all Matts fault BTW....he keeps telling me how good the box in the new Crumira is!!)
Author:  Group3JDatsun [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 12:00 pm ]
Post subject: 
Anonymous wrote:
Group3J,

Did you need to change the crossmember, starter or clutch when the box was changed?
(This is all Matts fault BTW....he keeps telling me how good the box in the new Crumira is!!)
Damo,

Clutch is no issue at all - the splines are all the same and I'm using the same thrust race and carrier as before.

Starter won't be a problem either - your putting your old bellhousing on a new box, so it all bolts up as per standard.

Crossmember will have to be changed if you go to an SR box for sure - I use a 180B crossmember. I redrilled and reinforced the floor, made up some 10mm alloy spacers and it works a treat. The alternative is to approach one of the aftermarket guy's and find if they do a crossmember for your conversion.

Regarding the ratios - the SR box is just as crap from 2nd to 3rd. I think you'll find the same with an FJ box.
IMHO don't bother with an Option box - they're getting really old and the gears in them are actually quite small. Hollinger is a better option, despite not having a 1:1 5th (the only advantage of an Option box).

Gears for a CR box are worth around $600 a set - i.e. 2 ratio's (1st and 2nd would be a good start) are worth $1200 or so. If you want to try and suss it further, have a talk to Arthur Jackson at Road and Rally in Sydney. He can build a box for you. Also, keep an eye on Motorsport News and Autosport in case one pops up 2nd hand there......
Author:  spock [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 1:08 pm ]
Post subject: 
If you can get a Z box (the 260 is better than the 240 - DON'T get a 280, it has an incredible 1st ratio, >3 from memory), it will simply bolt straight up on the back of a L-18. And it will eliminate the 2nd - 3rd drop. Not sure about the X-member though. Or overall length c/w 240K.
Author:  guppy [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 2:02 pm ]
Post subject: 
yep that 2-3 drop sucks.
the z18et box doesn't have this drop does it?
Author:  260DET [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 3:34 pm ]
Post subject: 
Not all FJ20DET gearboxes are the same, one is basically a B series, the other a C. The C box has one selector shaft which is a larger diameter than the equivalent in the B. So a front case may have to be drilled to accomodate one larger selector shaft, depending on what is being mixed and matched.

I'd be looking at using whatever fits from a C series box, they have wider gear teeth than a B has for a start. Skyline/Pintara have the C but I don't know what their ratios are.
Author:  BensDR30 [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 4:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
The Z18ET box runs a 3.6:1 1st.

Fine for removing Mallee roots.....
Author:  Group3JDatsun [ Fri Dec 12, 2003 5:46 pm ]
Post subject: 
260DET wrote:
Not all FJ20DET gearboxes are the same, one is basically a B series, the other a C. The C box has one selector shaft which is a larger diameter than the equivalent in the B. So a front case may have to be drilled to accomodate one larger selector shaft, depending on what is being mixed and matched.

I'd be looking at using whatever fits from a C series box, they have wider gear teeth than a B has for a start. Skyline/Pintara have the C but I don't know what their ratios are.
Cool - I didn't know there was 2 kinds of box, that's good to know.

The selector shaft situation only matters if you're changing the extension housing. There is no issue with the bell housing regarding the selector diameter, as there's no orifice it has to pass through.

I drilled my K center plate to take and FJ extension housing - no biggie, just got to make sure you deburr and get rid of ALL filings.
Author:  guppy [ Sat Dec 13, 2003 4:29 pm ]
Post subject: 
so ben, is the z18et box the same as non-australian market 5-speed boxes that are fitted to z20's, z22's and z24's?

cos i've got a service manual for a nissan vanette which has all the specs on this box.

i was just having a look at it and the non-australian market boxes run a 3.6:1 first gear, but the australian market boxes run 4:1. :shock:

even better for removing mallee roots :wink:
Author:  samuel [ Fri Jun 26, 2020 10:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: SR/VL Gearbox onto L18
Hi Guys
im in need of some assistance
i have a SR20DE engine layn around And i want o put it into my datsun 610 sss 180U
i will be eliminating the distributor and use a crank sensor pick up
the question is will my datsun L18 4 speed work on this set up ? will the datsun clutch work on this application?
will the stater application work ?
please assist
Author:  Dave [ Sun Jun 28, 2020 4:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: SR/VL Gearbox onto L18
No, gearbox won't physically bolt onto the engine.
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