I HOPE THIS WILL HELP .. MY FREN ONE TO B110




FINALLY..

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save adding another thread, my 120y has no brake booster. just wondering,

A - is this normal with the Y?

and

B - well there's no way to put this that doesn't make the car look like an accident waiting to happen, the brakes don't work, well thats a lie, they do if you going under 10 k's an hour. would putting on in be hard?

cheers
spatchcock

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Currently whizzing around the streets of hobart in the imported orange '72 180b sss named Phillip

sadly, the 120y blew up and the old sss was sold to a better home.

early 120ys didnt have boosters, and they arent really needed anyway
fitting one will definately not fix your lack of braking power

if the pedal just way to stiff? or do the brakes just not seem to do anything?
have you checked over all the brakes to make sure they are in good working order and adjusted properly?
bled the brake system lately?
do the brakes work better if you pump them?

ive only driven one car that didnt brake well as a result of not having a booster....it was my car with r33 brakes all round and an unboosted r33 master. but you could still pull the car up decently if you used all you strength to psh the pedal in
very much doubt normal 120y brakes would have a problem like this

they just dont seem to work. and yes, they have been bleed and adjusted only a few weeks ago. if i pump them it doesnt do anything either.

when i say it doesnt do anything, i mean very little. just to clarify.

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Currently whizzing around the streets of hobart in the imported orange '72 180b sss named Phillip

sadly, the 120y blew up and the old sss was sold to a better home.

Hey, I run an adapter plate like that, but after having 10 sets laser cut, I think I've found that design is faulty. I was test fitting each plate to be 100% sure they were right before I sold any to any. And it turns out (I think) that once the outter pad has worn down, the caliper body will foul on the plate where it has a piece scolloped out. I've got the shits actually. I've spent a fair bit of coin having the plates Laser cut, and a bit of time making a jig to drill all the holes in the right places. And now they might be no fkn good.

TnPshow @1200.com (I think) has a template of the caliperplate on his site, along with a bunch of other datsun stuff. But 1200.com is down ATM. So I'm doubley screwed.

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My drinking club has a Datsun problem............

NZ Datsun Club inc
www.nzdatsun.com

uh oh ... i didnt think of this when i made my plate, hmm maybe i should check lol

im having problems with mine atm where the calipers are locking down on the discs while im driving along, any ideas what would casue this

sorry to hijack

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Adelaide monthly meet

this brake upgrade was developed by me 6 years ago, the bracket shown in the the earliest pics of this post appear to be the one's i supply

brake brackets i sell for $100 a pair, i have ca18 S13 rotors, calipers, hoses and all necessary bolts required plus a sheet of instructions available for another $150

pm me if you are interested

my brackets have no trouble with clearances even if you use sr20 rotors & calipers

hey just an idea, check your pipes for kinks and flex hose inner nylon line may be callapsed, seen it happen heaps, especially on cracked flex hoses.
Sounds like fluid is bloked somewhere, check your tee peices etc too, a hard pedal is never a good feeling

turnout to be the M/C ... the dome on the pushrod was too big so i pulled it all down today and got hold of an adjustable pushrod from the local mechanic. i modified the dome so that it had no effect on the piston at idle and now seems to be all fixed

heres a photo of the brakets i made up ... bout 30mins with a drill press and pedistal belt sander

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Adelaide monthly meet

VG120Y,

do you still make these plates? can you PM me some more details please? sounds like a good option!

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120Y Coupe- longest build ever!

i cant seem to find the detailed drawings of these brake caliper brakets.....

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71 1200 sedan! now a a14 turbo project

200B struts seem wayyyy too big to fit under the 120Y's front end. I got a strut off a mate and you'd need to compress the springs to the sh88house and jam the strut in there. And even if you did fit them in, the front end would lift up and sit in the air and would look stupid. Do the bottom of the 200B struts even have the same bolt pattern as the 120Y struts? As in the 2 bolts that hold the strut to the top of the hub thingo (being all technical and all!)

I'm looking for something more of a bolt in job without machining pieces eg. unbolt original item, bolt in better item without cutting holes/machining parts off

I've heard someone mention that 180B booster and master cylinders will bolt straight into the 120Y's space. True or false? And would that give any better braking performance?

Also, r31/pintara wagon discs, how do you go about ramming them under the rear of a 120Y? What needs to be done to the caliper brackets to get them to bolt onto the ends of the 120Y diff? Do the axles need to be removed, and can you do that without rooting your bearings/seals? I was thinking the other day you could just cut a piece out of the bottom of the brackets and just slip them over the axles to eliminate having to remove the axles, would that heavily effect the structural integrity of the mounts?

What about r31 booster and master, would that fit in the 120Y without cutting out too much?

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

you can make 200b struts bolt straight into 120ys using all original nissan/datsun parts (depending on the year you might just have to change the steering arms) , then you just need to fit lowered springs to make it sit at a decent height

with the reaqr you need to take the wheel bearings off and slide the bracket on so its where the drum backing plate was, as the drum backing plate is what actually holds the axle into the diff, so without it there is only a dust cover thing holding it on

pretty easy to do though, just need to redrill 2 or 3 of the bolt holes in the r31 caliper bracket and it will bolt straight onto the diff, and for safety reasons i would weld an ectra half moon bracket into the middle of the bracket so that it holds the wheel bearings in better. bit hard to explain without a pic
but it ends up the perfect offset to use all the r31 brakes

yeah i wish someone would make a 120Y r31 rear disc conversion thread with about 1000 pics and detail drawings...

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

200B struts/240K/ stanza/ R31 struts have all been fitted to 1200/120Y
Problem with the 1200/120Y strut is finding a decent insert etc etc.
fit stanza/sunny LCAs with steering knuckles etc for extra camber.
We have various designs for these and have just devoped a new set up that is lower
than the following pics. these type of set ups absorb the largest bumps without
bottoming out or coil binding.
Boosters are a bolt in part.
when you upgrade to bigger calipers you displace more fluid so a larger master cyl
is needed.
Sure you do not have to use a booster, but in some cases you have to push
the brake pedal so hard that you end up with muscles on your foreskin.
Top pic has R32 calipers on 280mm rotors

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A little knowledge is a dangerous thing.
www.datsport.com

"R.I.P. Baz. 29 April 2022. Thank you for all your contributions to the Datsun community over the years. You will be missed." - OZDAT