Anybody know of a cheap one? I'm currently re-wiring my Dato and as I don't have a spare car battery sitting around I was thinking of using a separate power supply to test the loom.
I'm currently using an old PC power supply, but it can't handle much load before the overload switch clicks off . Jaycar has a good variety, with 13.8v models in either 15, 20 or 30 amp ranges, but they're a bit pricey for what i'm after. Ebay hasn't got a great range either.

_________________
Rod

are you just talking about your 12v...?? why not try using a battery charger, i know that is what autobahn uses to run their stero systems and most places like cash converters use to test car stereos

_________________
Recommended Traders

Greg @ JustSR.Com
NixCars
Pro240c

That's a good idea, i'll see if I can borrow one.
Thanks

_________________
Rod

Hey Rod,

I use PC power supplies. Some of the newer ones will give 8A from the 12V output. Which is enough for most applications. Another good feature is that they're short circuit protected so if you screw up you won't make smoke. Very handy!

If you want more then another way is to modify the 5V circuit (20A+) to give 12V. Fiddly bitch of a job but it works. I've got a supply modified like this that gives 14A continuous.

Jaycar had some supplies on special recently that give 40A and something like 9 to 15A adjustable. They were "shop soiled/reconditioned" jobs for around the $120 mark. They were not widely advertised but I rang them up and they had some left. CAT. NO. MP3090 - normally $400 (which is a bit silly).

PL

How do you get the newer ones to switch on? I have an old push button one before the time of windows switching everything off.

_________________
Rod

Short green wire to GND and it'll power up.

In fact what I do is just run one of the black GND wires and this green wire to a toggle switch that's mounted on the front of the supply. Then you've got a handy "soft start" ON/OFF switch rather than using the mains switch on the rear of the supply.

Another thing to do is to grab some "binding posts" from Jaycar or similar and mount them on the front too. Then you can easily plug in test leads with banana plug ends or attach bare wires. Sweet.

PL

how did you go rod? i am looking into this as well, and PL, do you have any pics of your setup?

_________________
120Y Coupe- longest build ever!

How many do you want???

First one - I removed the grommet where all the wires came out and made up a blanking plate to mount the switch and LED. This keeps the switch, LED and terminals on the front - where you want 'em.



Second one - same deal but I welded the grommet hole up on this one. Tidy, but I'd recommend the blanking plate method - unless you really like welding thin sheet metal! Here it's driving my trusty charger.



Third one - the big mama. From Jaycar. 40A of circuit frying goodness.



Fourth one - the original. No handy toggle switch for on/off so you need to use the original 240V rocker switch on the back. Terminals are mounted on the side - which is crap. No indicator LED. Rubbish. This was my first attempt.



And yes, I use all of 'em!

I hope those image links work.

You can either pilfer the supplies from old PC's or grab them new for not much money. Go here and do a search on "power supply".
www.rockby.com.au

PL

thanks heaps! it will be easy enough for power supplies, im an IT tech

do you have any pics inside?

_________________
120Y Coupe- longest build ever!

could you use one of those portable jump starters ?
I have seen them from $60.00

OK. Here are some internal pics.

*** WARNING ***

There are bitey bits in here. Stuff that will give you a nasty shock. STUFF THAT WILL KILL YOU. If you are not confident playing around with 240V then don't go here. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

OK. The wires on PC power supplies are colour coded.

The ones you need:
Black = GND
Yellow = 12V
Green = enable signal

The ones you don't need:
Red = 5V
Orange = 3.3V (may not be there)

PC's use a bunch of different plugs hanging out of the supply. Snip 'em off. There will be heaps of wires inside. All you need to know is that where the wires go from the board out to the connectors you just need a couple for 12V, a 3 for GND and the single green enable wire. Snip the rest off. You can see in the photo where I removed the extra wires - there are holes left in the board cos I de-soldered them instead of just snipping them.

I've run two of the 12V wires to the positive terminal on the front, 2 GND wires to the negative terminal on the front. I've also wired a toggle switch that goes between the green Enable wire and GND to turn it on.

Being a flash git I've also added an "ON" LED. I used a 12V LED. You could use a regular LED with a dropping resistor or a 12V globe. Make sure you leave an extra 12V and GND wire if you're going to do this (recommended).



The different brands are laid out differently but the priciple is the same. Also, see that little board with the thin blue and white wires going to it. That's a fan speed control board. Some supplies have these, others don't. They're good cos it means that the fan won't run at full speed unless it has to. This means you'll stay sane longer. Unless you're already barking mad - then the fan noise probably won't bother you!

Do all your work with the supply unplugged, then re-fit the covers before you plug it in again. Minimal chance of frying yourself then.

PL