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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 4:09 pm 
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Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2003 8:08 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Hanford, Ca. USA
Hey guys. When I bought my 510 (1600) it already have some very worn 280zx seats in it. They were still using the stock floor braces. Recently my fatass broke the driver seat recline during a hard 1-2 shift. I ended buying some Sparco knockoff's that are actually built pretty tough.

Anyway, I installed the driver seat on the stock floor brace mounts and now my hair is touching the headliner. I am considering removing the stock floor braces and bolting the new seat sliders straight to the floor (w/steel plates for strength).

Has everyone else had to do this mod too? I do have short legs with a long torso, but I am still 5'11".

Any help and thoughts would be thanked in advance.

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-Cable

-'72 Datsun 510 (1600) 2dr


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 6:40 pm 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2637
Location: Adelaide.
The original seat rail mounts are 0.8 or maybe 1mm sheet so any plate you use would have to be better :wink:
I suggest you use some rectangular steel tubing, 3mm thick, across the floor pan.
Once you have determined what height the seat needs to be, grab some tubing to give the same height. You can always use shims to alter rake and or height.
Drill and fit some 8mm high tensile bolts through the seat mounts, tubing and floor pan.
Use a flat 3mm plate (or say a 3x50mm diam washer) under the floor pan to prevent the bolt head from pulling through.
I doubt that you will need to mount the seats directly to the floor pan but it is your anatomy that needs to be accommodated, so go for it :)
You already know how easy it is to break a seat so build it better this time and you will be safer :wink:

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Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 2:50 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 23, 2003 8:08 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Hanford, Ca. USA
I am sure I will have to space alittle to get the seat high or low enough.


I guess that my real question is, how others had to remove the factory floor braces? They seem to be tac-welded in, shouldn't be too hard to remove them.

I was just making sure that I am not the only one to have to do this.

_________________
-Cable

-'72 Datsun 510 (1600) 2dr


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2003 11:46 am 
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Joined: Fri Mar 07, 2003 4:58 pm
Posts: 2637
Location: Adelaide.
The original seat supports are spot welded in and do perform a measure of stiffening to the floor pan.
You could cut the majority of them out using an angle grinder.
Make sure you protect the interior from sparks, they will burn holes in anything :x
I would suggest grinding off the seat support spot welds with either a small stone in a die grinder (maximum control, minimum speed) or angle grinder (minimum control, maximum speed) :?
You only need to grind down to the bottom of the weld depression and then using a cold chisel or multi grips you should be able to tear the sheets apart :wink:
Try to avoid going through the floor pan, you will take in water if you do :(
Once you have the old panels out, grind off any weld dags to give a nice smooth pan. Treat the bare metal with a degreaser/metal conditioner and once squeaky clean, spot prime with etch primer.
Follow up with a squirt of primer and a top coat. Carpets and underlay are notorious sponges so make sure you don't invite the dreaded tin worm to your floor pan :roll:
Ditto with your new mounts, make sure they are protected from corrosion.

_________________
Regards, Graeme
Just trying to help...
http://nissanman.shutterfly.com/
graemes@internode.on.net


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