Hi all,

New around these parts, hopefully it's a helpful resource for my latest project though!

Quick background - I owned a '71 1600 L18 Datto as my first car back in 2007. After getting my licence I got defected not long after for a whole page of things, which in hindsight probably would have been far less if i weren't a naive 17 year old haha. Following this I was ordered to sell the datto and buy something "more reliable" and "sensible" so I sold the datto (for not much might I add) and bought an 84 beamer (reliable?).

Anyway, so I have just picked up this beautiful 1971 1600 with an original L16, and I am the third owner.

She is mechanically A1 and runs like a dream. The body has had a respray about 6 years ago and only has a few spots coming through in the usual places. The interior is probably the most sorry part, with cracked through the dash pad and seats and the door trims starting to get a bit daggy. But these are only very minor aesthetic problems which I plan on getting repaired back to original ASAP!

Not entirely sure what plans for her are yet. I know I want to stick with the colour (not sure if it is the original brown/orange though). My old L18 was running twin SU's, extractors, 2 1/4 exhaust and some coil overs (can't remember what exactly, but probably 240K or R31 like most seem to be) and it had a dog leg 5 speed. It held on and was zippy enough to have a bit of fun in so I wouldn't mind doing a bit in this direction.

I must stress though, I love how original this thing is and I don't want to get too carried away with new age upgrades as its not really my thing! Long live the L series I say!

Anyway before I keep writing an essay, I'll add a few pics to let you all have a gander! Any inputs are greatly appreciated! I've been an escort man for the last few years (racing sprints) and Land Rover owner so I know my way around cars, but need to get myself up to date with all the desired/no go specs for this model. Specifically carb and suspension related.

Firstly a pic of the first car.


The new toy










Cheers,
Seamus.

Also last note - if anyone could direct me in the best direction to get bits and pieces like badges and stuff like that for cheap it would be great. A few bits and pieces here and there that i'd like to replace.

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Datsun 1600 1971

Very nice mate, clean, should keep it that way, a tough lseries would be cool, just lurk and see if you find anything or buy cheap remake items (badges n sh*t) on ebay if you need, keep us updated

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

clean looking car mate nice find

Thanks for the replies guys. Have done some further research and spoken to some blokes in the know. Think I want to try and pick up a single 40mm DCOE Weber with manifold. Also some 240K front struts i've been chasing on ebay. I miss that weber air intake noise and need it ASAP! haha. With the suspension, it would be nice to drop it an inch or two and tighten her up a bit to take out any boatness in her. Will keep you updated anyway.

She goes in for road worthy tomorrow, should hopefully pass fine (probably the most road worthy i've ever had a car haha).

Cheers

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Datsun 1600 1971

Looks nice mate, very tidy - definitely keep it with the L series.

You have two options I reckon... being a '71 model it should be pre-emissions which means that if you keep the L16 in it, you can actually do cam/carbs legally provided that it stays 'reasonable' as far as noise goes.

The other option, as something really different, would be a dead-stock L20 would be great & 100% legal (noting that if you install a newer engine, you can't modify it legally). My old bluebird went pretty well standard and the 1600 would be a bit lighter. That way you could have something really legit, that retains the old-school charm and remains 100% legal as long as you get a mod plate for it (easy).

I'm leaning more and more this way as time goes on, QLD laws are getting out of control to say the least - new rules proposed mean you can have your car confiscated for 3 months for no reason other than that it has been modified either outside the regs, or modified inside the regs but not approved.

how likely is it that you get caught though? in act my dad drove a 13bt 929 for about 6 years and then got caught, and he drove 180bsss with an fj20 after they made it illegal (?)

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

really nice car.
good to see you dont want to change much on it.
when i first bought my 1600 i had plans to do the whole modern-ise thing to it(sr20, modern interior and dash etc..) but now i hate to see people cut these cars up.
glad to see another 1600 going to be done right.

although if your budget is small id just put the original l16 aside and upgrade to an L20b, if your going from a standard L16 to a standard L20b it really is a huge upgrade especially for the $$ outlaid(but would need engineering to remain legal) .

but i wouldnt want to change your mind if you want to run the L16

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When the sign says "don't feed the bears", man you better not feed the bears.

So if I went to an L20b i'd need a mod plate? And wouldn't be able to do carb work?

And if I remained L16 I should be able to do some carb work and some exhaust stuff? (not too noisey).

What about suspension? Are 240K struts and some lower tighter springs allowed?

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Datsun 1600 1971

You could do it to make them look standard (not saying hight wise) but they are a item that came with a dataun, i know someone who did 200b front struts on his 120y and took it for rego and they didnt say anything

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tradesafe: Dazda, 2ndTimeStanza, Qeleh, big mac, hatchman


1979 Datsun Sunny Wagon 13b Turbo conversion: http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=28890

You really need to speak to an engineer about what they will/won't approve and also what doesn't need approval. For example if you fitted 20mm lower springs to suit a 1600, and a set of heavy duty shocks to suit a 1600, you don't need a mod plate as it has not changed by more than 1/3 height, has not dropped more than 50mm, will still be >100mm off the ground, and is all using "direct replacement" parts that are of a higher standard/rating/performance.

http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... 1%20v3.pdf gives you some more information on what does and doesn't need approval.

If you are making major changes like swapping in different struts etc, or cutting/welding/modifying things, then you generally need to speak to your engineer. Or, as "kman" said, there are lots of things that they may not "say anything" as long as it all looks ok and isn't too low etc, but if they knew or decided to take a further look then they might have had issues with it. I guess that's why people complain a lot about cops - it's pretty easy to modify a car legally but noone bothers to try.

As for engine stuff, you have to meet the emissions standard for the car or the engine, whichever one is newer. So if you have the stock 71 with the L16 then you don't have any emissions requirements & in turn can change carb etc provided that the car continues to meet the "vehicle standards" requirements called AVSR (Australian Vehicle Standards Requirements or something similar). Which I can't seem to find at the moment . But the general idea is that it must not be dangerous or annoying to other motorists (ie. not too loud etc).

However, if you want to fit an L20 from an '82 bluebird, then you need to take the engine with ALL components and ALL emissions gear across to your car and cannot modify it, without having to pass a gaseous emissions test (a- this is difficult and b- you can't get them done in QLD anyway).

Engine info on what doesn't need a mod plate (eg. engine with power & capacity no more than 20% above standard, needs no mod plate), what does and what can/can't be approved: http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... 011_v3.pdf

Full list of VSB PDFs for all modification types: http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/ ... _ncop.aspx

Ok I just found the AVSR. Although it is 1999, it seems to be the latest edition & is certainly the only one I've found.

http://www.ntc.gov.au/filemedia/Reforms ... Rules1.pdf

According to the way I understand this document, combined with the LA/Engines document in the above post, you can modify a pre-1971 engine in a pre-1971 car provided that:

1. it retains at least one silencing device (ie. muffler) through which all exhaust gas passes (ie. no turbo screamer pipe)
2. is below 96db
3. does not emit visible emissions (except steam) for more than 10 seconds

But if you change the engine or the car then you have to pass an emissions test which is not only tricky to pass, but impossible in QLD as they don't do testing here.

Again you really need to speak to your engineer.

Thanks for all the informative replies guys - heaps of info there to look through.

Update on the car so far -

It is nearly road worthy after a couple of attempts, the first sending it back for a cracked bit of fuel hose, the reverse switch leaking due to lack of copper washer and two rust spots in the sills. After this I went back and he decided to do the brake test (not quite sure why he didn't do it the first time) and he sent me back for braking too hard to the left and the hand brake not being tight enough. So fixed the braking to the side thing by pulling off the calipers and giving everything a good clean, adjustment and going over and she was all sweet. Also tightened up hand brake so it was working beautifully. Took it back in and he re did brake test - passed well for foot brake, then he decided to yank the hand brake so hard that he managed to break the cable. Meaning that now I have a broken hand brake cable haha, and its the only thing that stands between me and the thing being on the road. Was pretty pissed off that he was such a rough old bastard but I figured i'd just replace it and get it on the road. So have finally found a replacement cable on gum tree and should have it here by the end of the week to get the road worthy (finally).

Have also all but purchased a set of TRX rims from shifty - going to hopefully pick them up on the weekend.

Have also bought a set of 240k front struts with lower springs and have a set of rear -30mm king springs lined up to go with them.

Have also picked up a full set of badges to replace all the missing ones.

Was chasing a few engine bits and pieces on ebay (webers, su's and headers) but let them all go as I figured I'd drive it for a while before deciding if I want to do up the 16 or opt for the L20b. Had a good chat with a bloke about his L20b conversion at the QPDC meet on Monday night. He refered me to a bloke who can engineer the conversion for a reasonable price - so this is something to keep in mind.

Can't wait to see how it looks with the TRX rims and a little bit lower though, should have a cool look but still look pretty stock.

Cheers,
Seamus

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Datsun 1600 1971

A couple of quick pics of the rust repair I did - It was just a quick job. I plan on getting these areas professionally painted when I get the dent in the rear quarter removed. Just sanded back and rust converted then little bit of bog and etch prime paint. Literally did it in a couple of hours haha.







Cheers,
Seamus

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Datsun 1600 1971