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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 2:59 pm 
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Location: Adelaide
Can anyone advise what metal to use for the guard reinforcing (diagonal reinforcing piece of metal welded between the top of the guard rail and the area where the front doors hang from).

H beam?
RHS?
Metal thicknesses?

I'm worried about burning into the car itself when MIG welding thicker metal onto the thinner car body, so would be interested to hear how people have done this successfully.

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:19 pm 
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I would advise a folded brace made from 1mm zinc annealed sheet.
Designed properly with a few 90deg returns, it will be as strong as.
The "A" pillar and arch top wouldn't be any thicker so keep to the 1mm thickness for ease of folding and welding.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 3:22 pm 
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Thanks Graeme.

Would you have a pic at all? I have no metal folding equipment but may be able to knock something out.

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:04 pm 
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Quote:
Would you have a pic at all?
Well it just so happens........
Attachment:
[ attachment ]
A Pillar brace.jpg [ 15.75 KiB | Viewed 1450 times ]
I don't have any of a folded sheet but here is a tubular example: -


I don't know what body this was designed for.
Personally IMO, a bolt on would be only as good as the anchor points :?

For a folded brace design, I would have to sit down with my cardboard and favourite pair of scissors :wink:
If I find any other pics. I'll post them here.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 4:25 pm 
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Here is a folded sheet design courtesy of Camo in this thread: -
http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f= ... ce#p209151
[ img ]

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:15 pm 
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Material for that would be 1.2 based on the X bracing (or really Y bracing) on the back seat area of a 1600.
Folded 1.0 or 1.2 is probably the best, and as Graeme said, if you put a few 90deg folds in it for strength, you should be fine.
A piece of 30mm 1.2mm tube would also be pretty shmick. Only thing I don't like about tube and welding it into those places is the tube should be fine, but where it is welded into may actually flex a little. Welding onto the flat sections (for example like camo has done) will be slightly stronger as it will flex less.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:29 pm 
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Aah thanks Graeme - I remember seeing that pic somewhere on the ozdat forum but couldnt remember where (cheers Camo).

Will def make something up similar.

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 5:36 pm 
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Thanks for the spec SR20 Datsun and good points re the flex. 1.2 will be easy as pie to weld up :-)

Cheers,


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 26, 2011 6:11 pm 
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This is what I did with my car.

Folded up piece of 1.2.


Attachments:
[ attachment ]
Datsun 1600 reinforcing.jpg [ 102.83 KiB | Viewed 1443 times ]

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