What's wrong with under the front seat? That's where I will be putting mine.

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Nothing is REALLY wrong with putting it under the seat. I like to put my amps somewhere where they won't have cooling issues. Mind you, I broke 2 alternators in the 200B last time I had my last set of subs installed.

Im going to be mounting them in the boot, similar to that picture on the previous page. That way they are easily reachable, you can adjust settings by opening the boot and there's plenty of space for cooling. Mind you, these are the cheaper end of amps, if you're getting a flash one you can have remote adjusters.

It also comes down to how pretty your amps are as well. Many show cars put them out in the open to tweak for shows, and to show the cool designs they may/may not display. But I suppose you're not trying to win a fashion show in the 200B? good luck

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Daily Drive: '80 200B GX Wagz
Soon to be: ... Supercharged? Can't ever decide..

If it's not broke, don't fix it.. Upgrade it!!!

Here are some pics of my amp mounted in the boot

You can see Audison LRx4.1k amp, Morel Ultimo 12" Sub and also the crossovers for the Hertz MLK 165 splits in the front. The andersen plug is so that the sub box can be removed for track days to save about 30kg

I made a new board from plywood (standard one is too flimsy) and riveted the standard plastic fuel tank cover panel to it.

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1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp

Nice work there Turbovan. I'm planning on mounting my amp under one of the front seats and putting my sub in the boot at one side. In the past I have just bolted the amp to the back of the sub box. But I want to save space in the boot and try and make things a bit neater.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

I used to have my amp mounted to the backside of my sub box. The box has that el-cheapo carpet stuff that most sub boxes have with very little body to it. It was probably not the best stuff to have the amp sealed up against, but it only ever overheated if I forgot to put the removable parcel shelf in and it was in sunlight. It was only a 400w sub and 350w amp.

Now I have got a partly painted MDF box (that I made a little too cheaply/hastily) with a Kicker 15x15inch L7 sub (2ohm per coil) (fella who I bought it off said it was 5000w, Im guessing because it is a dual voice it is 2500w per coil). I still have the 2ch 350w sony amp powering it...and it overheats. I took the bottom cover off the amp and flipped the amp on it's top so the heat could escape, lasts a bit longer but still cuts out after about 10-15min. At the amp I currently have the 2-core speaker cable with positive wire hooked up to + L and negative wire hooked up to - R (so is hooked up in mono). At the sub I have the positive core of the cable hooked up to coil 1 + terminal, and a wire going from coil 1 + terminal to coil 2's + terminal, and the negative core of the cable hooked up to coil 1 - terminal and a wire going from coil 1 - terminal to coil 2's - terminal. I know there's about 3 or 4 ways to hook up these dual voice subs, just don't know what combination I should use.

Going to mount the amp (with bottom plate removed) on top of a timber frame with a computer fan mounted up beside it to suck air in one side of the frame, under/thru the amp, and up out the fan on the other side. I got a 1000w d-class kenwood amp with the sub, but i'm too much of a tightass to pull out all my 10 gauge wiring and put in new 8 gauge wiring. If the fan thing doesn't work I'll just have to bite the bullet and re-run all the wiring.

The 8mm thick MDF box for the sub has no padding/insulation inside, no floor, and about a 1in x 26in gap in bottom front, 5mm x 26in gap in top front, 12mm x 26in gap top rear, and a 3/4in x 26in gap in bottom rear when on a flat surface (the carpet in the boot has about 1in thick jute insulation under it so the bottom gaps are nearly completely closed up). What would you suggest to do to the box in relation to padding/insulation (go to st vinny's and buy a couple of bedsheets or pillows and chuck 'em in?) and should I put a bottom on it and seal up all the gaps, or leave just one of the gaps? The amp is probably getting pushed pretty hard to get the sub to go hard enough to get enough bass from the crappy box. There's a lot of travel in the sub cone, I think it's just the box.

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Sam-U-El/Racer135
1973 B110 - http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=60&t=21539
1972 B110
1978 120Y sdn
1973 B120 - dead
1971 VB110 4dr - sold
Others:
1995 Proton Wira - daily sh#tbox

The way you have wired it up (parallel) is resulting in a 1 ohm load which your Sony amp probably cannot handle. (Most cheapy amps are not 1 ohm stable - if in doubt check the manual/web for specs) You are probably also running the amp in bridged (1ch) mode which also reduces its ability to run low impedance loads.

If you change it to series you will get a 4 ohm load which your amp will handle better but it wont be as loud. ( amp +ve to sub coil 1 +ve, sub coil 1 -ve to sub coil 2 +ve, amp -ve to sub coil 2 -ve)

Really that amp is way too small for the sub and you should install your other one instead, a lot of class D amps ARE 1 ohm stable as they are designed for subs but again check your manual/web. Driving a sub with an amp that is too small is the easiest way to damage the sub. If you push it too hard until clipping (distortion) occurs then the sub can be damaged at power levels much lower than its rated power. Also its very hard to hear distortion at low frequencies.

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1971 Datsun P510 SR20DET 276 rwkW
2005 Mercedes AMG E55 350 kW
1969 Datsun P510 L20B EFI 95 rwkW
1975 Ford XB Fairmont GS Wagon 179rwhp
1980 Escort Van SR20DET unfinished
2002 Suzuki GSX1300R Hayabusa 185hp

Looks awesome Turbovan.
Any pics of your front mids and tweeter install?