ive just finished fixing all the niggly stuff in my hillman and i am about to get it started
i just realised i dond have a thermo stat and iam going to do a chemical flush of the head.
it gets REALLY hot really quickly and my question is just sitting in the garage iding will i be better off without the thermostat???
thanx heaps

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Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y

if it gets really hot quickly without a thermostat, it'll get hot quicker with one, the point of a thermostat is to slowthe flow of coolant and keep it above a certain temp, removing it whilst doing a cooling system flush is good

why are you doing a chemical flush of the head? chem weld? does it have a leaking headgasket?

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

nah its all rusty and theres like lumps and flakes of rust goin around

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Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y

when you do it, bypass the heater core and do that seperately, that is generally the cause, so flush the rad seperatley, the heater core seperately and the motor by itself, try normal hose initially until the water runs clear, then turn the pressure up really high, after thats done then do a chemical flush

might even pay to have the radiator professionally cleaned (end tanks removed and chemical bathed) i've seen radiators that are 50% blocked, saw an EF falcon that was 90% bloked in the end tanks with clay and crap

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

how much for a rad clean out???
and thanks for the great reply
legend

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Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y

I had the same problem with my 1600 when I first got it going after it had sat around for 8 years or so. It kept blocking the radiator with all the rust that was coming out of the engine.

I ended up having to get a radiator place to unsolder the radiator, clear it out properly, then solder it back up again. Then flushed everything seperately like Stoney says. I also made a little filter thing that went in the top radiator hose to catch any crap circulating in the cooling system before it blocked the radiator again. I've seen similar gadgets for sale at repco. Even after flushing, there was still a fair amount of stuff getting caught by the filter for quite a while afterwards.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

well this cars been off the road since 88 and in a barn since 92
also one more thing i cant get the sump drain plug out?????
any ideas
ive tried wd40 ova night and pulled onti butt it wont budge
Dave?how much did it cost for your rad fluch

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Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y

its a radiator out job, as for cost, not too much, prob $100ish

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http://www.healingchambers.com.au

Yeah, I think I paid somewhere around $100.

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1970 ex Group A Rally P510
1971 P510
1972 180B SSS
1965 SP310 Fairlady
1966 SP311 Fairlady

I had my RX-7's radiator un-soldered, acid bathed and re-soldered about a year ago as it had a leak. Cost me $95 at NatRad. I haven't had a problem since. If the car has been sitting around for that long it would probably pay to do that and also flush your engine.

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green200b - aka Alistair

The fleet:

Australia:
'80 200B GX - the green200b - hibernating
'81 RX-7 - 12A extend port - daily
'74 RX-2 - 13B bridgeport - cruiser

Europe:
'93 200SX - CA18DET - tourer

mmmppphhhhhhhhhh
i have workrd for so long fixing stufff and al i got was one lousy misfire
i had spark
petrol
i fixed the pump and it was pumping
oil pump
adjusted tappets

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Shean Connery ish Shexty shex and shtill shexy

1964 hillman minx under resto at the moment
BUT DATSUN COMING AFTER THAT
FORMERLY JDM120Y